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Understanding wiring terminal types

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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 11:13 PM
  #1  
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Understanding wiring terminal types

I am posting a link. I have these wiring pliers, and have had them for years.
I don't understand the type terminals in this description. A,B,C,AB, PT, RA,RB,RC
I have searched the net and am not finding an explanation.
Please educate me! And others.
WT2000 T&B Crimper / Cutter, Type A,B,C: AB, PT & RA, RB, and RC
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 12:09 AM
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See page K4 here:

Note: some have found this link, a PDF download, to have been indicated as being a dangerous download. Sorry for any misdirection.

http://www.el-sewedy.com/index.php?o...-betts&lang=en
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 03:29 AM
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My computer says that link could harm it and didn't want to open it but I know the types are the types of wire/insulation not the type of terminal.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by The Horvaths
My computer blocked that link also
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 09:05 AM
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Sorry. My iPhone must have thought itself immune.
They are families of "Sta-Kon" terminals made by Thomas And Betts. A leading "R" means insulated. Then comes family designator.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by The Horvaths
Sorry. My iPhone must have thought itself immune.
They are families of "Sta-Kon" terminals made by Thomas And Betts. A leading "R" means insulated. Then comes family designator.
interesting on the link...i will remove it. i didnt have a problem using Norton antivirus.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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Jeff,

I have probably crimped more wire than almost anyone on this board. I build industrial control panels and install them. I have a tool box drawer filled with almost every type of crimper you can buy for the oddest of crimp on wire ends but don't have one like you posted.



This is the type I've been mainly using for the last 20 years



These are basic crimpers that crimp probably 90% of the wire ends I deal with. What I like about these is they meet various military specs and they are ratcheting, they won't release until the crimp is completely made. I've used other manual crimpers and I've had wire pull out of the wire ends, I've never had that problem with the ratcheting type. I also don't like crimpers that have the crimping area in the middle, I don't think you can get enough pressure to assure a proper crimp.

As for the designations of the wire ends, I don't know what they mean off hand. I have looked them up in the past when a customer specified a specific type of wire end but in normal daily work I use the most common type of wire ends. I have had quite a few jobs where the customer specified a certain type of wire end that I have had to buy special crimpers for. Usually with these jobs I buy a $150-200 tool, use it for their one job and never use it again.

One note about wiring, try not to use butt connectors. I'd rather soldier and shrink tube a splice. Butt connectors are just butt ugly and another place for a connection to come apart. When I rewired my panel truck I built my own wiring harness. I crimped, soldiered and heat shrink wrapped all the wire connectors. I just didn't want any connections coming loose.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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I don't know for sure, but I heard that Lucas used these pliers on type C,D, JT, and YB terminals and look at all the problems it caused them! Use the right tool for the job!!!

 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
I don't know for sure, but I heard that Lucas used these pliers on type C,D, JT, and YB terminals and look at all the problems it caused them! Use the right tool for the job!!!

AX, please elaborate. What problems and which pliers?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:45 AM
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It allows the smoke to escape in Lucas systems!

Lucas Electrical "The prince of darkness".




If you never owned or worked on a British vehicle you won't understand.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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The best thing to do with Lucas electrical is to replace it with Bosch !!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bobj49f2
Jeff,

I have probably crimped more wire than almost anyone on this board. I build industrial control panels and install them. I have a tool box drawer filled with almost every type of crimper you can buy for the oddest of crimp on wire ends but don't have one like you posted.




This is the type I've been mainly using for the last 20 years



These are basic crimpers that crimp probably 90% of the wire ends I deal with. What I like about these is they meet various military specs and they are ratcheting, they won't release until the crimp is completely made. I've used other manual crimpers and I've had wire pull out of the wire ends, I've never had that problem with the ratcheting type. I also don't like crimpers that have the crimping area in the middle, I don't think you can get enough pressure to assure a proper crimp.

As for the designations of the wire ends, I don't know what they mean off hand. I have looked them up in the past when a customer specified a specific type of wire end but in normal daily work I use the most common type of wire ends. I have had quite a few jobs where the customer specified a certain type of wire end that I have had to buy special crimpers for. Usually with these jobs I buy a $150-200 tool, use it for their one job and never use it again.

One note about wiring, try not to use butt connectors. I'd rather soldier and shrink tube a splice. Butt connectors are just butt ugly and another place for a connection to come apart. When I rewired my panel truck I built my own wiring harness. I crimped, soldiered and heat shrink wrapped all the wire connectors. I just didn't want any connections coming loose.
Bob,
The orange/black crimpers are similar to the Thomas & Betts staking type crimpers. One of their features is that the metal sleeve in their connectors is seamless tubing, so no split. If you stake the crimp it forms the metal tube to the wire (the copper wire cold flows to conform to the crimped connector). That interface is resistant to corrosion. If you used cheap squeeze type crimpers and low grade connectors it only folds the connector onto the wire. It works but corrosion will eventually win out.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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I don't understand why crimpers aren't made so the "point" on one jaw is in the middle of the "cavity" on the other? That's how virtually all OEM/assembly line crimped fittings are made.

Originally Posted by 49f3dls
The best thing to do with Lucas electrical is to replace it with Bosch !!
Seriously?! The only Bosch components and connectors that are any good IMO are the ones built to SAE specs for US car mfrs. European cars are full of Bosch-related issues, nearly as bad as Lucas was in the '60's.
Ask me how I know (see signature)
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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In the 70s & 80's I had a 2 MG's, 2 Austin Healey 3000s, a Jag xj6 and a few Datsun (Nissan) 280z & 300z -- when ever anything electrical went wrong (too often with the jag) it was replaced by bosch parts if at all possible- Maybe they have gone the way of a lot of other mfgrs but Ax hit the nail on the head with the old saying - Lucas The prince of darkness. I am sure you would not take Lucas over Bosch- would you ??
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:25 PM
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Ive never seen those Jeff , but the smaller conectors on it look simeler to what we used to make RS-232 conectors (i think thats what they were called, its been a while) wich we used in tephone systems and computer connectors.
 
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