'56 F100
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
'56 F100
Hey everyone, new member here.
Just purchased a '56 F100 and I'm looking for any/all advice I can get. All in all, the truck is in pretty good shape, here are some specs:
Sanderson headers, Haywire Pro-T wiring system, Siemens VDO Gauges, MSD Ignition, Master Power Brake Booster, 351 Windsor, Ford 9 inch rear end, Ford C-6 Transmission
I'd like to do a little work in some areas. Any thoughts on the following?
- Adding power steering
- Doors don't align fully, they fit but it's not completely flush
- Speedometer & wipers don't work
Thanks in advance for the help!
Just purchased a '56 F100 and I'm looking for any/all advice I can get. All in all, the truck is in pretty good shape, here are some specs:
Sanderson headers, Haywire Pro-T wiring system, Siemens VDO Gauges, MSD Ignition, Master Power Brake Booster, 351 Windsor, Ford 9 inch rear end, Ford C-6 Transmission
I'd like to do a little work in some areas. Any thoughts on the following?
- Adding power steering
- Doors don't align fully, they fit but it's not completely flush
- Speedometer & wipers don't work
Thanks in advance for the help!
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey 84,
Welcome Aboard! Post a pic when you get a chance so we can see
your nice '56. If you search for "Toyota Power Steering" you will find a few examples of the most common steering swap in our trucks. It fits just about perfectly in the space of the original. Speedway has them I believe for around $300.
We used an after market wiper kit - pretty pricey at $300 but they fit up in there where there isn't much room. Door alignment is a little tricky - I'll let others chime in with the "block of wood" method (seriously).
Have fun with your new truck!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
Welcome Aboard! Post a pic when you get a chance so we can see
your nice '56. If you search for "Toyota Power Steering" you will find a few examples of the most common steering swap in our trucks. It fits just about perfectly in the space of the original. Speedway has them I believe for around $300.
We used an after market wiper kit - pretty pricey at $300 but they fit up in there where there isn't much room. Door alignment is a little tricky - I'll let others chime in with the "block of wood" method (seriously).
Have fun with your new truck!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey 84,
I hear you on not wanting to put some non-Ford parts into your
nice truck. Here is a link to the discussion on the Toyota steering Box vs alternatives. Our truck had been "upgraded" in the '70's so there wasn't much original to worry about. On most upgrades there are some trade offs. Good luck over there. I grew up in Chapel Hill - my brother is still out in Charlotte - Nice state.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-steering.html
I hear you on not wanting to put some non-Ford parts into your
nice truck. Here is a link to the discussion on the Toyota steering Box vs alternatives. Our truck had been "upgraded" in the '70's so there wasn't much original to worry about. On most upgrades there are some trade offs. Good luck over there. I grew up in Chapel Hill - my brother is still out in Charlotte - Nice state.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-steering.html
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 135
From: Houston
We need clarification on your doors. Are your doors are centered in the cab opening properly but not closing enough? Or does the top of the door stick out further than the bottom (or the opposite)?
If the whole door just needs to move in you adjust (or replace if it is worn out) the aluminum stop on the door post. If the door needs bending to match the contour of the cab the wood block method gets used...
If the whole door just needs to move in you adjust (or replace if it is worn out) the aluminum stop on the door post. If the door needs bending to match the contour of the cab the wood block method gets used...
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
I don't think the doors need bending. Tomorrow I'll take some pics. In the meantime, here's a description.
From the outside, the whole trailing edge of the door isn't flush with the cab. It's as if you were in a modern car and closed it one click but not fully. It clicks into place, but isn't completely set. From the inside sitting behind the wheel, light peaks though behind my left shoulder, so essentially the top trailing edge. The passenger door has some light peaking through at the leading edge w/ the same problems on the outside.
I probably need someone to take a look at it. Know anyone in the San Diego area (or possibly LA)?
Thanks again,
Jon
1956 F100
From the outside, the whole trailing edge of the door isn't flush with the cab. It's as if you were in a modern car and closed it one click but not fully. It clicks into place, but isn't completely set. From the inside sitting behind the wheel, light peaks though behind my left shoulder, so essentially the top trailing edge. The passenger door has some light peaking through at the leading edge w/ the same problems on the outside.
I probably need someone to take a look at it. Know anyone in the San Diego area (or possibly LA)?
Thanks again,
Jon
1956 F100
Trending Topics
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,683
Likes: 8,269
From: northwestern Ontario
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,927
Likes: 135
From: Houston
I think 56panelford has it right. You need to move the striker plates in. Loosen the three phillips head bolts but do not remove them. Move the striker plate in the distance you think is required. Hand tighten the screws and test close the door. Readjust the striker as necessary. When the door closes to your satisfaction final tighten the screws. I have always done the initial loosening and final tightening with a hand impact driver.
I used the links above not as an endorsement, but because they were the first pictures I could easily find.
I used the links above not as an endorsement, but because they were the first pictures I could easily find.
Last edited by 38 coupe; Jan 3, 2013 at 09:38 AM. Reason: correct the number of phillips head bolts
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Probably door just needs adjusting or the latch may be worn out after 56 years of opening and closing. Look at the star wheel and striker, if there is a lot of wear or looseness of the parts, replace them if needed, then adjust for proper operation. Hot rod shops are more plentiful than 7-11s in CA, shouldn't be hard to find one in that area.
AFA the PS, you have basically 2 choices: 1. Something US made; 2. Something that works.
AFA the PS, you have basically 2 choices: 1. Something US made; 2. Something that works.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Looks like the doors fit well enough in the opening, latch likely needs adjusting, see pg 97 of the Mid Fifty catalog for info on how to check. Also If the weather stripping is new, it may be too stiff (a lot of the aftermarket stuff that is solid won't compress enough and keep the door from closing tight) and/or the plunger on the outside handle may be screwed out too far keeping the latch from latching tight. To check if the weatherstripping is too stiff, loosen the bolts on the door striker on the door pillar (3 phillips head screws) and move it in as far as it will go, LIGHTLY barely snug the bolts. Now hold in the button on the door handle an lean hard against the door. If you can push the door in flush easily, you need to adjust the latch. If you need a lot of force to push it in flush (don't dent your door!) then you need to remove and trim the weatherstripping thinner or replace it with softer hollow rubber stripping.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Thanks for the advice on the latches and strikers, I'm gonna check them this weekend and see what happens.
I'm still searching for the toyota power steering. I checked out a few places around me but no luck. Worst case, i'll spend the money, get the parts and do the labor myself. But if possible, I'd like to avoid the high costs. Any thoughts besides midfiftys, etc? It's looking more like $600 give or take. Also, will I need to replace the steering column with something more robust (i.e. IDIDIT)?
As you can probably tell, I'm still pretty new to this game so thanks for your patience and the help. This forum has been fantastic!
r,
jon
'56 f100
I'm still searching for the toyota power steering. I checked out a few places around me but no luck. Worst case, i'll spend the money, get the parts and do the labor myself. But if possible, I'd like to avoid the high costs. Any thoughts besides midfiftys, etc? It's looking more like $600 give or take. Also, will I need to replace the steering column with something more robust (i.e. IDIDIT)?
As you can probably tell, I'm still pretty new to this game so thanks for your patience and the help. This forum has been fantastic!
r,
jon
'56 f100
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Jon, I bought my Toy box on www.car-part. com . Last time I looked there were several dozen listed, with quite a few under 125.00 (scroll down the list, they are in descending price order). If you buy an installation kit like Mid Fifty sells you can install it yourself with a decent set of hand and power tools. I don't know what engine you have, but if it was available with a PS pump, then you just need to find a pump (they are available used, rebuilt, new for 25. - 75.00, just get one that was NOT for rack and pinion steering) and the factory mounting brackets. Steering column is your choice, the stock one can be inexpensively modified to work, or there are a lot of aftermarket ones available from 150.00. If you go aftermarket you'll want to get a new steering wheel, one about 15" in diameter works well with the Toy box.
Here's an article Fergy and I wrote on PS options: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...60_Trucks.html
Here's an article Fergy and I wrote on PS options: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...60_Trucks.html
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Central Oregon
I found a box on CL for $40 (lucky, I know). They don't come up often. I built the mounting bracket that AX came up with made from 2x2x1/4" angle iron ($5) and got the conversion pitman arm from Classic Haulers ($99).
I have a 289, but have to find a ps pump and brackets (found one yesterday but it was on a 351W, so I don't think the brackets would be correct).
It can be done on a budget, and it helps if you aren't in a hurry so you don't have to jump at the higher priced boxes.
Here is a link to the post AX showed his bracket on:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-mount.html
I have a 289, but have to find a ps pump and brackets (found one yesterday but it was on a 351W, so I don't think the brackets would be correct).
It can be done on a budget, and it helps if you aren't in a hurry so you don't have to jump at the higher priced boxes.
Here is a link to the post AX showed his bracket on:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-mount.html