Hey all,

I picked up a p/s box for $70 yesterday off of CL. First, is this what I need? Second, did I get ripped off?



The guy who sold it to me looked at the doors. He said the striker plates were complete shot and the rotors had a lot of free play. Both need to be replaced and after that I can make the necessary adjustments. I'll do that tomorrow once I get the parts.

Any suggestions on a p/s pump/reservoir? I'll order a new pitman arm and hose kit from midfifty tomorrow. What other parts am I missing?

 

That's the right one. A good price. You'll also need a mount either the #4620 CJ or the heavy V shaped mount. The HD tie rod is highly recommended. You'll need more parts depending on which column you plan on using. You'll need a U joint to connect the box to the column. Toyota splines to ?, 3/4" Double D for an Ididit, Flaming river, or stock column. If you are going to use the OEM column you will need a lower centering bushing, floor mount, and horn conversion kit if you want to retain the OEM center of the wheel horn button. If you buy all the conversion parts, you'll be about at the price of the non tilt or about 50. less than the painted steel tilt column. With the stock column you'll need to use the oem turn signal switch and wheel. With an aftermarket column you'll get a brand new internal turn signal switch plug and play wiring and can use the size and style wheel you like, and the center horn button that comes with the wheel will work without modification. I am using a 30" Ididit paintable tilt column with a 15" Grant banjo style wheel, and a billet swivel floor mount.
You can modify the OEM 2 piece sheetmetal floor plate/inspection cover, or buy one of the several variations on their 1/8" plate one piece replacement covers from Mid Fifty.
Make sure you get a new Toyota pitman shaft nut. You will need to split the nut and arm to get the Toyota pitman arm off the box. They use an impossible to loosen thread locking sealer (Godzilla spit) on the nut at the factory.

 

I got the remaining parts from midfifty so tomorrow I'll get to work. One thing I'm concerned about is the joint. Midfifty sent the complete toyota steering conversion w/ coupler, but this specific kit didn't include the Toyota Borgeson joint. Will this kit work without it? Specifically, will the coupler fit with the box & shaft?

Kit Midfifty sent - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Cmpt Toyota Steering Conversion, With Coupler
Kit midfifty should've sent? - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Cmpt Toyota Steering Conversion

Looking forward to the replies!

 

Personally, I used the U joint. Since I used a different length column drop, my steering shaft would not have lined up straight enough to use a coupler. I would suggest using a Toy spline to DD U joint. Altho your shaft is round rather than DD it is easy enough to grind a pair of flats on it to match the U-joint. I am not comfortable with using a weld on joint or depending on a set screw on a round shaft to not loosen. The DD will not slip even if the set screw falls completely out. If I did use a round U joint or coupler I would replace the set screw, drill thru and use a hardened thru bolt with a lock nut and thread lock. I might even use 2 thru bolts for added security.
I'm quite sure MF would exchange the coupler for a U joint if you asked.

 

Power steering is installed! It went somewhat smoothly. I had to fabricate a bracket for the pump and cut a larger hole for the box to fit through, but overall, it went fine.

One question, is it normal to hear a weezing sound when the wheel is turned hard (almost all the way) to the left or right? My understanding is that it's the valves opening/closing in the box and that it should get better w/ time as potential air bleeds out. Other possibility is that there's something wrong w/ the box itself. Anyone else have similar issues?

 

It's likely to be the pressure relief valve operating, the system is at max pressure at the extremes. Try putting a couple layers of cardboard or plywood under the front wheels to reduce friction and with the engine running (check the fluid level in the pump) turn the steering to max in each direction and hold for ~ 10 sec about 10 times. Check to see if the fluid level dropped. If it did, refill and repeat until the fluid level remains steady. A slight noise after that is probably nothing to be concerned about and likely won't be heard inside once the cab is buttoned up. As long as the box doesn't leak it is OK.

PS, it took me a few minutes of scratching my head to realize the picture is on it's side and that you are not running an I-4 engine.

 

I have had some expeirience with door adjustment as well, like all have said the latch is probaly the problem, However the way I have done all the adjustmets is with everything loose meaning the bolts to the hinge side of the door and frame, u can tighten them with the door closed. this way you can ensure that the door is aligned and not bound. usaully works well for me, good luck, and also on the PS i to do not like the toyota idea bujt it is the easiest and best option, i just dont plan on telling anyone lol.