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The first aftermarket engine swap mount I remember (~1957) was for the CSB and used a similar frame mounting system. Hurst bought the original company and produced that mount for ~ 30 years.
The first aftermarket engine swap mount I remember (~1957) was for the CSB and used a similar frame mounting system. Hurst bought the original company and produced that mount for ~ 30 years.
So, what is a "CSB"? You seem to be the only one using this term.
OK, ordered motor mounts for the CSB today. Where would you suggest a good safe jacking place on the engine so i can cut and grind the old motor mounts out? I have a feeling its going to take awhile to clean up that area. Thanks
OK, ordered motor mounts for the CSB today. Where would you suggest a good safe jacking place on the engine so i can cut and grind the old motor mounts out? I have a feeling its going to take awhile to clean up that area. Thanks
You can jack under the vibration damper on the front of the engine if it is clear under it, otherwise put a foot long piece of 2x8 plank under the oil pan sump on top your floor jack. All you need to do is take the weight off the mounts. If you are worried about working under it, put a cherry picker on the engine as well or put a knot free 2x4 or a length of suitable steel across under the engine and wrap a chain around the ends and the frame as a sling.
Finally You could build cribbing out of 16" lengths of 4x4s. Stack them in criss-crossed pairs until the stack is slightly higher than the space between the floor and the oil pan, then jack up the chassis and slide the stack under the pan. Let the jack down until the engine weight is very slightly supported, place jack stands under frame. I always have short lengths of lumber around so I'd use the last method or my cherry picker to lift the engine slightly.
Sounds like you have done this a few times for sure. I know we have talked back and forth about my project alot. if i do the lowering springs and the drop axle in front will taking of some springs and axle on top of springs with c-notch catch the rear end up with the front end. i want to try to stay level and of course LOW. Thanks
Sounds like you have done this a few times for sure. I know we have talked back and forth about my project alot. if i do the lowering springs and the drop axle in front will taking of some springs and axle on top of springs with c-notch catch the rear end up with the front end. i want to try to stay level and of course LOW. Thanks
Yah, at least a coupla times!
Depending on wheel size and tire sidewall height you should have no trouble pushing over beer cans with your bumper. I hope you don't drive where there are many speed bumps or steep driveway approaches or you might need a skid plate under the oil pan or wheelie wheels under the rear bumper. I know what it's like I have to be careful where I drive my Solstice. It has a special factory race suspension pkg., the front underlip spoiler is only 1 3/4" off the ground, good thing it's flexible!
Had a hurst mount and replaced with midfifty SBC mount, now I have A/C and power steering....well soon.
That first one is the one I used a number of times. The second one from MF is the one I have in my truck. The MF ones that Haroldmac is going to use is like a cross between the two. Side block mounts that sit on biscuits and frame mounts like the Hurst.
I have always wanted something slammed on the ground. Right now it has 15 inch well and tires. Their not low profile tho. I plan on after front disc and new rear end going to at least 18s with low profile. I plan on next week sitting down and learning how to load pics on here. Thanks for all the input, HaroldMac
There is a system of choosing wheel and tire sizes that is called + sizing where you select a replacement tire aspect ratio i.e. 30 series, 40 series, 50 series, 60 series, 70 series, 80 series and wheel diameter so that the overall rolling diameter remains the same. gives a different look to the vehicle without changing the overall gearing or speedometer calibration. If you understand what happens when you change aspect ratio and diameter you can also use that information to select a shorter wheel/tire combination that will sit lower but use a larger wheel. Information on plus sizing can be found on Tire Rack's website: Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels
I am no expert in lowering the front end with the stock axle, however,It would seem to me that it is going to require either an IFS or an aftermarket drop axle to achieve the very low front end to go with a the rear axle on top of the springs and a C notch.
As an aside, I have one of the old SBC mounts sitting on my shop floor right now. Someone on the forum had posted about one and I offered mine. It is the original setup that bolted to the original flathead front mount bisquits and the front of the SBC. It was also drilled to mount a Buick nailhead which was in my 49 for many years.
I,m going with the 3 inch drop axle and lowering springs in the front. Then try to match rear with removing or replacing springs and axle on top with c-notch. Thats the plan anyway. Not unless someone has done this and tells me theres a better way. I think for the money and what i will be doing with the truck this will fit in well.