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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 08:53 AM
  #1  
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Another 97 CC build thread

The Good:
The t500 is waiting just got to go get it at my buddies shop. I think I will go the route of Gabe and Glenn once their trucks are running. But I will be putting another clutch in before then.

The bad:

Was looking at the shocks to order new ones and found the frame rails cracked where the PO had air bags installed. What to do.......
The passenger and driver door locks froze recently and now only the driver door can be opened with lots of key wiggling. Not sure if I should look for another set of lock cylinders and ignition or if there is a way to fix them.
Body work. My front fender is done. I will get a new set but that gets in the way of doing fun mods.

What to do first....
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 09:18 AM
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Try the power graphite in the lock cylinder. It has worked for me but I had one on this dually I got that refuse to free up. I took it to a lock smith and for $15 they fixed it up to the same key.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 09:22 AM
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What could have gone wrong that air bags cracked the frame? Improper install or overloading? Yea,yea, yea overloading,I know.but too much air and hard jolts?

Make sure the lock solenoids aren't holding the locks from moving.when they seize up it will make the cylinders very tough to operate.disconnect the linkage part and then you will at least be able to get in and out
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Try the power graphite in the lock cylinder. It has worked for me but I had one on this dually I got that refuse to free up. I took it to a lock smith and for $15 they fixed it up to the same key.
I had the problem with the passenger door, it seemed ok just to live with it as long as the drivers side worked. When we went on our six month trip south for the winter a couple of years ago, the wife said what if the drivers side stopped working So I took it to a lock smith he could fix it but suggested a remote for about the same cost $75. so that worked for me. FTE has a thread that tells how to DIY it if you have the electric locks and a module already installed under the dash.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by richdawg
I had the problem with the passenger door, it seemed ok just to live with it as long as the drivers side worked. When we went on our six month trip south for the winter a couple of years ago, the wife said what if the drivers side stopped working So I took it to a lock smith he could fix it but suggested a remote for about the same cost $75. so that worked for me. FTE has a thread that tells how to DIY it if you have the electric locks and a module already installed under the dash.
I need a thread how to install the module if it isn't under the dash.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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Any pics of the frame cracking so I know where it is, how bad it is, etc?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 07:24 PM
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I had the same problem with the locks on both sides. I found something that worked perfect for that an other things its called fluid film almost like wd-40 but on steriroids. Squirted some of it in each lock an wiggled the key till it broke loose ain't had a problem since.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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Kyle, WD40 is a no no because it will attract dirt, is fluid film different?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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I just had to replace the elec lock cylinder on the rear doors of two trucks. And the key cylinders on the front door of one of them. Replacing the key cylinders on the front door is pretty easy. Not sure what it'd take to get them keyed alike with the ignition cylinder but if you don't mind using two keys they cheap.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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How did you fair on rear lock solenoids.I can't find any for less than 280$ each...the dealer is 340$ not available.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Hit up a car audio shop. I picked up some after market ones. For $20 each. But he cut me a deal for buying 4. They are normally $25 each. They lock solenoids take a little playing to mount. But once you figure the first one out rest are easy. By the fourth one I thought I was a pro.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 06:25 AM
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I replaced both of my rear ones with these. Getting ready to do front ones also. They work well, and Can't beat the price!!
2 x Universal Heavy Duty Power Door Lock Actuator Motor 12 Volt | eBay
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 08:18 AM
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The truck is an XL. I have a set of aftermarket electric locks that I would like to install. I am interested in the remote write up.

I will take some photos of the cracks. They are from the lower side of the rail up to some holes that were drilled for the airbag supports.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 08:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 91 Dually
I replaced both of my rear ones with these. Getting ready to do front ones also. They work well, and Can't beat the price!!
2 x Universal Heavy Duty Power Door Lock Actuator Motor 12 Volt | eBay
That's the same ones I used.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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Here is a photo of the crack. Both sides look like this. The right hand side is the front.

<a href="http://s1174.beta.photobucket.com/user/nateairman/media/image_zpsc9f33eb3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r614/nateairman/image_zpsc9f33eb3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

I have graphite lube but it wasn't the ultimate cure. It feels like the pins(?) are sticking once the key is in and not letting it turn. Can I pull the locks and wash the insides out?
 
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