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Another 97 CC build thread

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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 01:23 PM
  #16  
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It already looks like its spreading at the bottom. Get those brackets off of there and see how far it goes up. I'd clean it real good and put a nice "v" into the crack, weld it, then plate both sides of the frame for a repair. However, I'd like to see what it looks like behind the bracket and all cleaned up first.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 03:03 PM
  #17  
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Hmm. Not going to be a fun fix. I'll have to bring a grinder home from work.

I believe the fuel lines are on the driver side frame rail. Should I plan on doing a new larger set of lines? Just thinking of future mods.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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If your stock lines are in decent shape, don't change them. They are plenty big. Been some discussion not long ago on here about them.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 03:22 PM
  #19  
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Wow,that is no good."fish" plate that like Darin said.Make sure who ever does the welding knows what they are doing.I wonder since the bracket is in the way if the crack came off the hole they drilled? The frame doesnt look paticuraly rusty from what I can see..
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Kinda like wd-40 but doesn't dry up as quick a week for it to dry. After it dried I put that graphite powder in the locks every so often
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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I have everything to do the work except time! I'll have to get some prices
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 09:00 PM
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My water in fuel light comes on every once in a while and goes out. I have been draining the bowl. Is there a better solution?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #23  
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Last night I found another truck. 95 F150 Single cab 2wd straight6. The best is the paint matchs my truck and it is rust free! Going to drive it a few days before I take the 350 into the shop and take it apart. Hoping to do axels new rear tank and e fuel from irate!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:03 AM
  #24  
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I had to soak the lock cylinders in penetrating oil for a few days then cleaned them. It took a a lot of work to get all the little parts working. Lubed with graphite and blew all excess out. Now the locks work like new.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:06 AM
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Never have figured out the water in fuel light....
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #26  
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So far the list of parts waiting to be installed isn't that impressive (Gabe & Glen!) but there a couple of goodies. The T500 is at the top of the list followed by new mirrors. The axels are out of a gasser. One question on them.
I am going to be using 315 75 16 tires and would like the speedo to be accurate. Are there different tooth count sensors? I need to get the ratio off the replacement axels. If they are .373 should I keep the .488's and look for .410's?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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As for the crack in the frame. I am considering fish plateing past the shackles or even boxing the frame. At the same time we will put a traction bar on each side. I will be looking for a set of four inch one ton lift springs as well to get rid of one of the blocks.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:38 AM
  #28  
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I have read that the speedo can be recalulated, not sure how but I'm sure you don't have to sensors.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by nateairman
So far the list of parts waiting to be installed isn't that impressive (Gabe & Glen!) but there a couple of goodies. The T500 is at the top of the list followed by new mirrors. The axels are out of a gasser. One question on them.
I am going to be using 315 75 16 tires and would like the speedo to be accurate. Are there different tooth count sensors? I need to get the ratio off the replacement axels. If they are .373 should I keep the .488's and look for .410's?
I don't think you will want the axles out of the gasser... They will be light duty 5 or 6 lug semi floaters. Not suitable for any thing heavy.

I assume you mean they came out of the f150 you got...

richard
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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The f150 is the temporary transportation to work. The body is nice on the 150 I am thinking of using it for parts after the mechanicals are done on the diesel. It would be fun to put a powerstroke in the 150!
 
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