I change my oil and batteries about two weeks ago and now I'm having some very disconcerting issues. It didn't start until last week but about every other time I start my truck it starts very rough, some intermittent knocking, and when I start down the road it revs a little higher, less smoothly, and not as much pickup. However, if I turn the truck off and start it again it goes away and everything is normal. Any help? Am I just not letting it warm up enough? I've also noticed it stalling slightly at 70 and 80mph, regardless of whether or not it's the first time I cranked it that day.

 

Do you have a scan tool? Specifically thinking about ICP pressure, ICP volts, ICP desired, and IPR % duty cycle - cranking, low idle, high idle, and at 2000 rpms.

 

Negative, I do not. ICP would be injection control pressure, correct? Truck hasn't popped a CEL yet if that helps.

I'm really lost in the woods here as far as automotive troubleshooting goes, I can do basic stuff but right now I'm near the bottom of a steep learning curve when it come to working on my truck.

 

ICP is the Injection Control Pressure It is the sensor that measures the pressure of the high pressure oil system.

To measure these values, you need a scangaugeII or something similar. They can be had for $135 to $160. They are very handy. If you have an Android phone or Iphone/Ipad there are apps for them. Other people have installed the Edge CTS.

All of these can serve as an electronic gauge system as well as a scan tool. Without something of this nature, it is going to be impossible to troubleshoot IMO.

Have you checked the FICM volts? Of the tools the scangaugeII is the best for that since you get an immediate reading when cranking and you do not have to wait for the device to sync up (at least that is what I understand to be true).

 

You say you changed the oil? Did you also replace the oil FILTER?? If you did, did you use a factory filter (Racor) or a "will-fit" filter?

 

BPofMD- yes, I did replace the old filter with the correct motorcraft filter.

Bismic- no I haven't to all. since I don't have a scan gauge nor the funds available to get one should I take it to a dealership and request they check these?

 

The deal is that the dealership will charge you for the diagnostic work - they will charge about what a scan tool would cost. That being said, they will usually apply that diagnostic fee towards paying the final bill if you have them do the work.

What a scantool does for you is that it helps you identify the easy things that you might want to do yourself. If you are pretty sure that you aren't going to do the work yourself, then it is probably best to take it to a dealership or Indy shop that you trust.

Probably the easiest problem to address is the FICM - if that would turn out to be your problem. There is a procedure in the Tech Folder on checking your FICM voltage with just a DVOM. You could also pull your EGR valve and see if it is filled with carbon and sticking.

 

Ouch. Gotcha, guess I'm saving up for a scangauge II. Thanks y'all.

 

Perhaps someone near you has a scan tool and you could get with them and have them scan the truck for you

 

As he said up top....Auto Zone does it for free.....

 

Oh ok gotcha, theres an Autozone a quarter mile from me