Used my 4H for the first "real" time since I had a Dana 60 installed this summer. At the same time I had both my driveshaft remaned and later discovered some shoddy work done by the shop on my rear joints. I have Warn manual lockers on the front. Seemed to work fine and made quick work of getting out to the main roads after a pretty good snow storm. But I noticed when I came to a stop I was hearing a whomp, whomp, whomp sound just under my feet about the last three revolutions before coming to a complete stop. Soon as I cleared the back roads I took it out of 4H and noticed the sound was still noticeable but a bit quieter, manuals were still locked in, so I pull over and unlock the hubs, sound gone. I could also feel this whomp, whomp just under my feet.

This morning once it had a day to drip dry I climb under her to take a good look. Unlock the hubs and give the drive shaft a good spin and it moves freely, put some pressure on it pushing up and feel it move on the back side at the double cardon joint. Moves up/down about 1/4". The play is in the middle of joint not the flange side, if that makes sense. If I use a pry bar and try to move the half bolted to the transmission it doesn't move.

Know nothing about these joints other than they have two sets of U-joints with a socket of some kind between them, should there be any vertical movement? If not, is there a replaceable part other than the joints that might fix this or am I looking at new cardon joint. And yes I am kicking things around the kitchen in between typing this....fed up with paying people to do things half a*&%'d!

 

There should be zero slop!

I'd be willing to bet the centering ball and spring were not replaced!
This is not brain sugery, fairly simple to do!

Even without access to a shop and a press, you can sucessfully replace ujoints and the ball with out anything more than ring pliers, a mallet, and a socket the same diameter as the u joint cups.

I'm sure somewhere on utube is a video you could study.

I have performed this repair many times in the field... not pleasant conditions, but always successful!

 

That's what I was hoping to hear, already found the ball repair kit at the local parts store for about $45. Going to take it down first and get a good look first though and see if I need ujoints as well.

 

Do the joints while you are there. Use Teflon grease on the centering ball as there is no way to grease it after assembly. You'll save a heap if you do this yourself. Buy the best ujoints you can find. Slicer and Neapco are the better off the shelf brands. Remember to stagger the zerks and mark everything to keep the balance as it was. Slow and steady is the key. This is rewarding! Oh don't be alarmed if the new work is very stiff when assembled.

Do this soon... that kind of whomp whomp
Can mean literal disaster.

Or at least pull the whole shaft until...

 

This is the info that you need:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-vid-pics.html

Ford Excursion, 1999-2004 Super Duty Front CV Driveshaft Parts

 

Got the ball repair kit and the 3 neapco u joints today but the seal that goes over the ball is Spicer part 2-86-418 and no one local has it so I'm stuck ordering it, the seal is absolutely toast,and the inner seal isn't even in there over top of the ball socket, will post a picture in a few and we got a huge storm coming two days. Looks like I'm pulling the Jeep out of storage.

 

Great news! Just take your time... those needle bearings can be sneaky.....

One more hint. Ensure everything is very clean prior to rebuilding. I always wipe everything with laquer thinner and give a fresh coat of satin black. Remember a single grain of sand will ruin the whole job. A little fresh paint makes everything look new and reminds me of the work I have done.

 

Ok did I mention I PAID $525 in July to have both my driveshafts rebuilt and all my joints replaced! Yes I know I did but going to rant anyway, took them 3 return trips to get the rear right and I'm not even messing with them again - just doing the front myself. What I found when I got it apart.

This is the seal that goes over the ball joint socket


This is the ball seat which is completely MISSING it's outer seal, see the 3 parts of the new kit beside it on the towel, the outer press on seal is not EVEN in there. New part still has the cardboard needle bearing container in it (looks like rust in the photo but it's not). I can stick my finger in the cup and pull the socket up about 1/8".


AND the cherry on top one of the front joints had a needle bearing ground up under the cup! The ujoint moves freely one way and I have to put it under my foot and press with both hands to move it the other way. It also had a good amount of play probably from the needle bearing sitting under the cup. That's three of five joints now.


Ok done with my rant!

 

Housedad thanks for the links!

 

Didn't that have a regular joint in it before? I see no reason for an expensive Cardan joint.

 

All the front driveshafts in the 99-04/05 Super Duties and Excursions have double cardan at the transfer case. The shaft is too short and too high of an angle to not have them.

 

You know, Sammie, that guy that did that work needs a swift kick somewhere soft.

For goodness sake, report him to the BBB, Angies list, and anywhere else you can think of, including the attorney general if possible.

That shop sounds like a menace to anyone driving on the road.

I feel so bad that you ended up with this crud. I hope it is the end of the troubles from his work.

 

Yes, yes, yes. Absolutely clean. Anything driveline, trans, axle, and engine internal. (in other words, anything that will use a bearing or gear under pressure. You have to be careful of even the towels you wipe parts with to ensure there are no specks of threads caught.


And Atomic gave you the best advice of all: Take your time. Rushing only gets it done bad. Slow and sure is best.

 

Dam Sammie, I thought I had bad luck, but to compensate I fight it and anyone who caused it (not physically).

 

Well got it all done today! Canabalized a seal out of an Exploder driveshaft a friend had at his shop, exact same seal. Same friend helped me change it all out and the bench vise was absolutely necessary and made tapping everything in and out really very easy. Do have a new seal on order for $6 but probably won't change it out later as the donor one was in great shape after a good cleaning. Instructions were great and extremely helpful in getting the joint back together in the right order with the zerks in the correct position. Again amazing what a difference it makes when you have joints that actually articulate! Felt great movement by hand before we installed, and no play now when pushing up on the shaft. Didn't really test it yet on the road as they were dry, but got another pretty big snow coming tomorrow, which is why I was in such a rush to get it done today. Took two hours start to finish with the right tools and great instructions and a good deal of that time was spent cleaning stuff off, and looking at it making sure we got it back together correctly.

And I am on a personal mission to make sure no one does business with Indy Rack n Axle ever again! Will give you guys an update after the snow tomorrow night and let you know it feels on the road.