I have an 07 Explorer Limited. I have never had any problems with it since I bought it in the fall of 06. A couple months ago I noticed my heat was blowing cold on occasion. Engine temp is always right in the middle of the gauge, so I assumed it was the heater core or a damper issue. Brought it to my local dealer two days ago. They diagnosed a leak in a hose. They said they topped off the coolant and ordered a hose for me, due in next week. The parts they ordered were "Tube-Heater (6L2Z-18663-BA) and Tube Auxiliary (6L2Z-18696-BA)." Even after they topped it off, it still has the same issue. Does this sound like a possible cause?

The other issue they were checking for me is a slight hesitation I feel when starting from a stand still... leaning on the pedal there is no issue, but if I am accelerating slowly, I feel a hesitation initially. They said the codes showed a misfire and I need new plugs and a coil.

My rear defroster wire fell off a while ago also. The ESP says that read defroster is covered for electrical issues only, not glass breakage. I consider the wore falling off an electrical issue. Dealer says that the only fix is to replace the entire window, which is not covered. I called for and they said that it is the dealers choice how to fix it. Seems like a waste to replace a whole window for a wire that can be reattached. I can buy a kit to do it myself, but why should I? My very expensive warranty says it should be covered. I wonder if a different dealer may be more adept at fixing it instead of replacing window?

I'd appreciate feedback as to whether these are reasonable causes... since none of it is covered by my VERY expensive Ford ESP, and will cost me hundreds of dollars to get fixed.

But, the real reason I am writing this is that since two days ago I now have a MUCH worse problem that I NEVER had before. When just driving along on city streets, slowing to come to a stop sign, about 6-7 times in the last two days I have had the transmission slip... it is in drive, and I have done nothing but slow down to come to a stop sign... approaching the stop sign I notice that giving it gas revs the engine and RPMs like it is in Neutral... after stopping it still does it when trying to go again... shifting to 1, 2, 3 works... going to Neutral then back to drive has seems to correct it also. It seems very coincidental that this has never happened in 6 years and now starts after having the dealer work on it... not even fix anything... just diagnosing the two above issues. My question is... is there anything they could have messed with or not put back in place that could be causing this? This is a MAJOR safety issue... if I can't get the truck to move when I need it to that could cause me problems. I am hoping the dealer would not be doing something on purpose to get warranty work.

I would appreciate any advice you might be able to offer me.

Thanks!

 

Definitely try another dealer for both issues. The newer explorers have software updates that may be able to solve those trans issues. If it is a valve body issue the warranty should take care of it. You can't easily check the fluid on these units (there is a complicated procedure where you definitely need a ford service CD).

 

Well, I have had the heater issue for 2-3 months... and never had any other issue with engine temp... now, 3 days after the Ford dealer had the vehicle, and told me about the leak and that it was fine to drive until the hoses come in at the end of this week, the engine temp light comes on. I saw the engine temp was up at H so I shut the engine off and coasted to the shoulder. Found a nearby resident to give me a gallon of water. I opened the radiator slowly... no heat, no steam no pressure. It took about 3/4 gal of water. I waited about 15 minutes and then started the car. Temp was at midline and stayed that way the rest of the way home (10 min).

What the hell? What could they have done to cause this? Engine temp was fine for 2-3 months with this heater blowing hot/cold issue... they said they topped off coolant a few days ago. Now 3 days later it overheats. I am so pissed at this dealer. But I have no other choice closer than 30 miles... They also want to charge me almost $400 to replace spark plugs... is that reasonable? They tried to rip me off on brakes... wanted over $800 for front and rear pads and rotors. I found local shop that did it with all Wagner parts (ceramic pads) for $593.

Where are these hoses located that I listed above? Can I see them from under the car or the hood?

 

is it a v6 or v8? For a V8 it may be a good deal on plugs because they are very prone to breaking off. The Ford plugs aren't cheap either at retail.

$800 for pads and rotors is expensive but it sounds right for ford parts and dealership labor. I know someone who paid that in midas for that job. That is why DIY can really pay off. If I didn't bother with discounts I could get the parts for well under $200. Ford parts are probably around 450, add a few hours labor and there you go. The dealerships make more on the repairs than selling the cars.

If they found a leak in the hose it is wrong for them to send you on your way, since you probably lost coolant the from there. Probably in their experience it is a small leak but who knows. Keep a few jugs of water if you drive it until it is fixed. A leak could cause a no heat situation.

I'm not sure exactly where the hoses are. Leave it overnight with a cardboard under the truck, then warm it up fully, give it some gas and check for leaks. If you see anything don't drive it. A tow is cheap, your insurance may even cover it. ESP may even cover it, I think ford with a warranty offers tows to a dealership no matter what. A second overheat could do the engine in, and ESP probably wont cover damage due to overheat.

Try explorerforum, there are people very familiar specifically with this year of trucks.

 

You are kidding me, right? Keep water jugs?

That's what you do with a 20 year old beater truck, not an 07 Explorer.

Take your truck in again and get it fixed, by any reputable shop if your

Warranty has expired.

FTE has many knowledge Explorer people here, this is what I know for sure.



Explorerdriver, you have 8 posts on FTE and your are telling someone

To check out another forum?

 

I apologize and I'm sorry about suggesting another forum. I'm new here but have 1000s of posts there under another name. Its just that maybe with his specific problem he could have benefited from both forums.

As for the water jugs - if he needs to drive 30 miles as he stated to a dealer and has no other option - that is some piece of mind instead of overheating. This problem needs to be repaired ASAP and the heat has to work correctly to confirm. I still stand by my suggestion to get it towed. Losing enough coolant to get you into the red with a diagnosed leak is not good. You don't wan't to dump your coolant 1/2 there.

I also agree that if it is indeed out of warranty a local reputable shop is a better idea. Radiator hoses aren't rocket science. If he wants to save some money he can order them from a discount dealer. I don't know if there is a forum sponsor so I won't mention anyone.

 

The position of the temp needle means nothing. It's an analog idiot light, same as the oil pressure gauge. It's set up to slowly move and then stay at the middle, and peg if the overheat temp switch trips. If you lose heat, that means no coolant is available to go to the heater core, and the engine is dangerously low on coolant. This is something that requires attention and is not an "ok to drive" condition.

 

4 .0 engines have a nasty habit of thermostat housings cracking . They are plastic . I replaced my wife's recently . A few at my shop this year .

 

My freightliner has the key on the left . My f100 is on the dash ,right of column . My 53 is dash mount right of column . Like to stand outside to start after a filter change . Makes checking for leaks easier !

 

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I am calling first thing Weds to get it back in. Still under full ESP.

Out of curiosity... does anyone know what temp the red thermometer dash light kicks in at? And what temps constitute Low, high and midline on the gauge? I am assuming the temp light kicks in at some threshold before any damage has occurred? The truck was still running fine... with no sluggishness or issues when the light came on... and I literally shut the engine off a second or two after the light came on and coasted to the shoulder. Just curious about the temp thresholds above, and what temp it would need to get to before damage would occur. If the coolant is not full and possibly has air bubbles, is it possible that the temp sensor is OK but some other part of the engine may be over temp? or as long as the gauge is midline to low am I generally OK?

 

I'd have it thoroughly checked out. Air pockets in an engine with aluminum heads are a very bad thing, my ex lost a Honda to one (but then she was a complete car idiot and didn't tell me there was something wrong with it until she hadn't had heat for over a week).
Generally, a warning light will come on between 212 and 220, but I'm not sure what yours is set for. You did the proper thing, getting it shut down in time is critical to minimize the chance for damage. I did once blow a hose on the freeway and had no choice but to limp it to the next exit, not much water available in the deserts of Idaho. It was an iron headed 2.3, but I went a good ten miles after the gauge dropped back off the high temp without an issue. I've tried killing that little truck so many times- It uses tons of oil, it's run clear out a couple times, I drove it 900 miles with over 1000lbs in it, and just the other day brought home 800lbs of pellets. I've tried to kill it, I can't stop driving it until it dies all the way.

 

OK... the trans slip issue they say is the torque converter... I need a new one... covered by ESP. Does that make sense? The slip only happened a few times over two days... so I was not sure if they would be able to reproduce it... but they said they are 1000% sure it is the torque converter. I am not a mechanic... does this sounds reasonable? What does the torque converter do? Should I be having issues at 68K miles?

I have never had the drive belt changed either... is it worth a proactive change?

 

The torque converter is very possible or the solenoid/valve body that controls it. Maybe there is a TSB for the truck with that symptom- that is why they implicated it. Its a shame it fails on an 07 truck with under 70K miles...really instills confidence if you want a used one. I guess it is a good thing you are getting a new one - I would want to know why it failed - they have to flush out the the tranny well if there are any parts that exploded in there. Could it be it just wore out.

Unless the belt is really making noise or cracked(some cracking is ok) I would leave it alone. 100K is when you would start looking at it.

Ford-six is right about overheating. There is no safe temperature once the needle swings up(unless the sender is broke). You may have one or two overheating events and then there will be damage. Even one overheating event may mean a shorter engine life down the line. On older ford engines (like the 3.8L in the Tbirds) an overheat means you will be changing headgaskets very soon.

 

OK. I got the truck back, finally... seems to be doing OK... except now, over the few days I have been driving it, I hear a new sound... when accellerating... or sometimes when coasting... like a cricket chirp... some longer, some shorter. Not constant... short bursts... from 1 second to a few seconds. Very faint, but noticable. Any thoughts? I wish I has another Ford dealer near me... this one has lost all my confidence.

 

If the dealership working on the cooling system, the tech. may have gotten fluids or oil on the serpentine belt or pulleys.

Monitor it closely for a day or two, if it still persists or gets worse, call the dealership and report the issue.

I am sure the dealer will not be able to "reproduce the condition", but be persistent in your request.

Chirping usually has to do with a slipping serpentine belt, pulley or belt tension.

It could continue on to AC compressor, alternator, water pump.