That is so interesting about the threads. When I took the tires and rims off my truck the one side was reverse thread and I thought the previous owner maybe replaced the studs and didn't do it right, thats a big relief. Hey Raytasch how did your tuck pull that f-4, im just curious.

 

Stu, here are all the numbers from the wheels both wheels on the front were RD35007 stamped on the outer rim. The inside duals were C42920 3-46 & C42920 3-47. The outer duals C35260 5-45 all the rear wheels were Also stamped BUDD WHEEL on the inner part of the wheel in between the stud holes.
I also have a broken RH stud and missing lug nut on the right front, how hard are these to find? Tomorrow I'am going to attempt to pull the brake drums and have a look at the brakes. I pulled the cap on the driver's side floor board,and the plug on the master cylinder. The master cylinder looks completely dry, and the truck has no brakes.

 

Your Budd #42920s also have the Firestone "RH" style locking ring design. They too are 20" x 5" wide. The "RH" can be serviced the same as any other locking ring wheel, but they take a more practiced hand to ensure no damage to the rings. Getting the solid/continuous ring off/on requires that the ring be squeezed past the rim through the two indented areas on opposite sides of the ring. Too much pressure, or too aggressive use of a BFH, can bend or break the ring which leaves you sorry outta luck. I'll post a picture below showing one side with the ring indent. Find yourself the oldest guy at your local big truck or ag service facility and you should be in good shape. As for your broken stud, these are available from Dorman Products, as are the nuts. You'll have to drive the broken stud out of the hub then compare it to the life size pictures that Dorman has on their web site. The replacement stud should I think be available at Napa. I know that they handle Dorman products. The link below is for a different page in the catalog, but you can navigate around to find the match to your stud. Stu

https://www.dormanproducts.com/catal...ec10_Part4.pdf

 

Btw nice truck sheepdog it looks like a nice solid start.

 

Well I bit the bullet tonight and pulled the head. The third cylinder from the fire wall doesn't look good, the piston is down about an 1 1/2" and full of rusty crusty sludge. The others have a light coat of surface rust but nothing terrible. I'am having a hard time getting pictures to upload but one of the crud I got out loaded. My guess is a crack in the block, but would like opinions especially those that keep the motor from becoming a boat anchor.

 

Got one to load the red in the other cylinders is ATF blaster and k1, that I've been pouring in the spark plug holes since I got her home.

 

Here is a picture of the head.

 

On a lighter note I did pull the passenger side front drum look like I'll need to get the shoes re-lined and the drum turned, I couldn't get the drivers side drum off, I will have to try to back the adjusters down.

 

I was wondering which other flat head engines would be compatible with my truck? I have come across some on CL and if I can get one at a good price and it is a runner, will it bolt up to the transmission and motor mounts. It also seems that it would be easier to find parts for a V8 as a posed to my straight 6. I'm also looking for wheel cylinders and master cylinder rebuild kit would Chucks trucks be the place to look for these? Thanks Jeff

 

Chuck is good. Do some searching locally for a place to reline your shoes. Wheel cylinders and rebuild kits are available, size cast into the cylinder if original. Can't remember if 1 1/4 or 1 3/8.
What is wrong with the engine? Torn it down yet to determine the exact condition. I would think a rebuild may be cheaper, easier than swapping to a flat head V8, especially knowing how many V8s are cracked and building one is not cheap. Granted, 226 six parts are not cheap but they are available. See egge for list of what is available. http://www.egge.com/
IMO, hope I don't get too much flack, but I think the six is a better engine.
thanks for the update.

Edit: Front cylinder is 1 3/8" and there is L&R
I am going with a Dana 70 in the rear so have not torn down the rear brakes.

 

Thanks Ray, the motor is still in the truck, not sure what the problem is yet and haven't ruled out having it re-built just looking into a plan B. Take a look at the pics a few posts back at the top end with the head off. Definitely a problem not sure if it is a cracked block, warped head, but looks to my untrained eye that it will need bored out and new pistons at the minimum. Thanks Jeff

 

You are right about it probably needing bored. Could be caused by a leaking head gasket. Interesting, number 3 in mine looks about the same. I will rectify the problem with mine by replacing it with an over head valve v8 engine most likely. I have not torn mine down yet and may not although I would like to know exactly what happened to it.
I am accumulating parts and currently replacing all rear spring pins and bushings and installing the Dana 70

 

Has anyone rebuilt a 226 recently? I'am wondering if over sized pistons are available, and from where. I'am trying to decide between trying to find parts and and a machine shop to do the work v.s. find a running donor flat head. I guess I would like to know parts are available before I take the block to get hot tanked and checked for cracks. Thanks Jeff

 

Egge has them listed on their site that I gave the link to above. Clean the tops of all your pistons and look for oversize stampings. Years ago it was common to bore one hole, fit with Os pistons. Also you need to see if there is any stampings on the crank that indicate regrind. Not hard to drop the bearing caps and check for OS marks if no marks on the crank. You really need to know where you are before you look for parts as some sizes may not be available. That engine is about as simple as engines can be.

Edit: Look around the block for rebuilt tags.

 

Thanks, Ray I looked there but didn't see them, found them the second time! I appreciate your help, Jeff