You have both outer and inner Budd style lug nuts on the rear. The inner nut will hold the inner wheel independent of the outer nut. PLEASE be careful with your widow makers and pull the valve cores on the outers before messing with them. And keep in mind there are left hand threads on the driver side, right hand threads on passenger side. Stu

 

The rear lugs are two piece. Outside nut is a big ol' rascal, 1 1/2". Special lug wrench or set of 3/4" sockets with a big old breaker bar needed. Driver side or one side will probably be left hand thread marked "L". When the larger nut that holds the outside wheel on is removed, the inside lug remains, retaining the inside wheel. Remember you're dealing with WMs. You may be able to deflate the outside tires and get them between the fenders. Good luck and take pictures.

 

Stu thanks for the info Ill be careful with the wheels, hopefully they can stay on the truck, but if not I'll let the air out. The left hand thread info probably saved me some grief, thanks Jeff

 

Thanks Ray, I'll be sure to take a 3/4 socket set and a breaker bar. I ordered a shop manual and owners manual should be here Friday, will have to do some studying.

 

The reason I mention "one side" will be left hand thread, I once saw a truck where the drums had been switched, left to right and the threads were not what I expected.

 

We had an ace mount a left hand stud on our right rear. Dayum, did we get it tight before we thought to scrape paint off the bugger to see the "L". Shame.

BTW, the inner nuts are square drive.

 

The 226 cubic inch H series motors are fairly common. Frequently even the restorers remove them in favor of a flathead V8. This means good running H motors are fairly low price. I bought a rebuilt one for $500 a few years ago and I doubt the prices have gone up much. The difference between the car and truck motors is all bolt on stuff like water pumps, oil pans, exhaust manifolds, etc. Don't worry about what a good running H motor comes out of, you can bolt it into your truck regardless.

Keep it stock, you will be glad you did.

 

Update, I picked the truck up on 12/28. My dad ended up getting a cold the day before I was going to leave for Kansas, so my wife grudgingly went in his place. My great uncle from Topeka rode along to Garden City with us. The truck was pretty much what I expected from the pictures, no big surprises which is a good thing. The last owner to put plates on the truck owned carnival rides and bought the truck for that purpose.
Prior to that I believe she was a grain truck, I found a weight slip from a grain mill in the glove box, along with an empty envelope from the Vehicle Department State Highway Commission postmarked Aug 26/47. That said "Notice -This is The Certificate of Title To Your Vehicle" postage was .03 cents.
I also took some pics of the wheels, while I'am sure they are probable WM I wanted a second opinion. Stamped on the outer edge on the dished side was RD35007. Stamped on another wheel in between the lugs was C35260 and 5 45 along with BUDD WHEEL Made in USA.

 

Here is a wheel pic

 

wheel pictures

 

Wheel picture 2 won't upload I'll take anew one tomorrow night and try again.

 

Title picture, I didn't realize that Ohio required a vehicle inspection with an out of state title, till after I had the truck off the trailer and in the pole barn... I got more practice loading and unloading the next day to take her to the DMV to make sure the VIN matched the title. In the end I got an Ohio title

 

So far you're a lucky man. Your F-4, like many others like it, didn't start life with 20" dual rear wheels. The original F-4 options were single 20" wheels giving the truck a 7,500 lb. GVWR, or dual rear 18" wheels giving the truck a 10,000 lb. GVWR. Many owners, however, added the dual 20s to increase load capacity.

The #35007 wheel is a Budd product having a 5" wide Goodyear "LB" rim with split outer locking ring. The Budd #35260 has a 4.33" wide Firestone "RH" outer rim that has a solid/continous outer locking ring. This design is not to be confused with the widowmaker that is the Firestone "RH-5°". Similar name, but a much different rim. I'll link cross section diagrams of each of these designs. You'll now want to do a similar part number search on your other wheels to find out what others you have.

It is important when dealing with locking ring wheels that you ensure that your service center keeps each rim/ring combination as a matched set. The manufacturers all posted warnings of the risks of mix-matching rim/ring component parts. When you find your other numbers come back and I'll look them up for you. Stu

Edit - I probably should explain why I said your "LB" was a 5" while the chart below says it's a 4.33". During the 1940s the National Wheel and Rim Association changed their measurement methods. Gone were measurements taken across the outer lips in favor of measurements taken down inside across the rim base. Your "LB" was produced after the diagram I grabbed to show its design. The same would apply to the "RH". Your wheel was simply made using the older standard. Stu

 

Thanks for all the info on the wheels Stu. I have been studying your other posts about the WM wheels and didn't see the thicker band on mine, but wasn't 100% sure what to look for. I'll pull the rest of the wheels this weekend and look for numbers. If we meet up some day I owe you a few adult beverages for all the info. Thanks Jeff

 

Works for me. Glad to help. Stu