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Where from here? help...

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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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tylert1976's Avatar
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Where from here? help...

Okay--driving home yesterday in my 76 f-100, and I heard a very quick ticking noise for a couple seconds then it stopped. I kept going about 35 mph and then I heard it twice more followed by loss of engine performance.

I pulled over and stopped the vehicle immediately. I had a friend tow me home today. When I try to turn it over, it won't. The engine will only rotate about a half turn in either direction. I thought, bad battery, bad starter, bad alternator until I tried to rotate the engine. Something broken?--stuck?

It's not seized, but it doesn't move much.

Ideas? I'm going to take the oil pan off next time it is not freezing outside.

I'm thinking of really getting in there to investigate my engine.

If you know what's going on, please help.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tylert1976
I had a friend tow me home today. When I try to turn it over, it won't. The engine will only rotate about a half turn in either direction.
If you know what's going on, please help.
As much as I hate to say it, I'll say a connecting rod let go. A stuck valve would be a remote possibility but usually if a valve is stuck, the engine will turn nearly one full turn, not just half a turn.
You're going to have to do a teardown to see what the problem is.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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That's what I feared. Hey, it's going to be a learning opportunity.
Thanks, Mike.

Any other theories are welcome.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:04 PM
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i would agree with mike. i had a 5.0 in a f 150 do this. granted the truck was abused alot. heavy hay wagons and such. would only turn half way either way.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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Okay. This is a find and fix, right?--Not a complete rebuild?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 03:30 AM
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Well you could just replace the broken rod if that's what happened, but you will have to pull the head on that side to get it out so might as well do the other head gasket and might as well replace all bearings and rings and have the crank polished. I would at least plan on all that just in case. Its possible it will need bored too so that's a trip to the machine shop where they'll tank it and replace freeze plugs and cam bearings too. That's a basic rebuild. If the crank is fine its possible that you could get a new rod, new bearings for it and maybe u won't break the piston rings and not have to pull the crank(therefore not have to pull the whole engine either ). I did so on a Mazda engine to replace a broke piston skirt... so in that case I re-used bearings but needed new rings.
 
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