Serious trouble.
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Serious trouble.
Hi people, I'm very new here & hoping for the best. This forum has been great, i've been lurking...Here's the issue.
I bought this 2000 F-150 XLT 4X4 5-speed at a great price.
It had an intermittent knock (I thought top end).
After purchace I drove under 300 miles (it has 139k+ miles).
Intermittent knock got REALLY BAD on 100 mile drive here.
I decided on timing chains & kit. Replaced it with confidence...(seems good, what a task!)..No change in knock. HEAVEY KNOCK.!!!
Took it to Ford this morning.....Oh-ohh.
3 Guys came over smiling....not laughing. They'd not heard such a knock.
All said rod, two said crank, all said bottom. It is gonna get cold here.
I hear this is a cab-off job. I have few options. I'll need a used motor installed as I can't handle it without a decent shop& too much time.
PLEASE HELP! GIVE SOME ADVICE.!If there is any. This is a great place, I look forward to sharing what I've learned.
Thanks.
Dale.
I bought this 2000 F-150 XLT 4X4 5-speed at a great price.
It had an intermittent knock (I thought top end).
After purchace I drove under 300 miles (it has 139k+ miles).
Intermittent knock got REALLY BAD on 100 mile drive here.
I decided on timing chains & kit. Replaced it with confidence...(seems good, what a task!)..No change in knock. HEAVEY KNOCK.!!!
Took it to Ford this morning.....Oh-ohh.
3 Guys came over smiling....not laughing. They'd not heard such a knock.
All said rod, two said crank, all said bottom. It is gonna get cold here.
I hear this is a cab-off job. I have few options. I'll need a used motor installed as I can't handle it without a decent shop& too much time.
PLEASE HELP! GIVE SOME ADVICE.!If there is any. This is a great place, I look forward to sharing what I've learned.
Thanks.
Dale.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
If it's a distintive single knock likely a rod bearing everytime that cylinder fires. Remove the injector plugs one at a time while running.
If the knock changes quite a bit for any cylinder you know which one and what it is.
If the knock sounds closers togather and more random it's likely a main bearing.
If no change on any of these it's something else.
Good luck.
If the knock changes quite a bit for any cylinder you know which one and what it is.
If the knock sounds closers togather and more random it's likely a main bearing.
If no change on any of these it's something else.
Good luck.
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Serious trouble-bluegrass ?
Hey thanks. I hope this gets to you, bluegrass ..coolhandle.
So if I unplug electric to injectors I can isolate the cylinder?
The Ford guy said don't bother scanning. He said it'll throw every code....etc.
That's OK, I'd still like to isolate it....none of us want to hear it though.
It's awful...like a hammer on an anvil.
Thanks,
Dale.
So if I unplug electric to injectors I can isolate the cylinder?
The Ford guy said don't bother scanning. He said it'll throw every code....etc.
That's OK, I'd still like to isolate it....none of us want to hear it though.
It's awful...like a hammer on an anvil.
Thanks,
Dale.
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Have you done this?
I'm really stuffed for space...could also freeze bad here in a week. It gets -30 every winter here. Sometimes -35c.
Dirt floor, no help.
I'm not a complainer but this will turn ugly fast.
To pull said engine seems tough. The timing job was. Guys say drop the pan but they must have miracles for wrenches. I don't see the clearance.
Thanks.....Dale.
I'm really stuffed for space...could also freeze bad here in a week. It gets -30 every winter here. Sometimes -35c.
Dirt floor, no help.
I'm not a complainer but this will turn ugly fast.
To pull said engine seems tough. The timing job was. Guys say drop the pan but they must have miracles for wrenches. I don't see the clearance.
Thanks.....Dale.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
If you have no codes before doing this, you 'will' generate codes but you know why they set..
Your looking to find a knock not a missing cylinder.
For codes set just clear them because you generated them looking for the knock.
How the miss codes are set is because the PCM measures the rotation time for each cylinder.
If you pull an injector plug, the rotation time goes long and is detected as it is supposed to, setting the code..
What your doing is removing the pressure of combustion that causes the knock looking to hear the change in the sound..
Hope it makes sense.
Good luck.
Your looking to find a knock not a missing cylinder.
For codes set just clear them because you generated them looking for the knock.
How the miss codes are set is because the PCM measures the rotation time for each cylinder.
If you pull an injector plug, the rotation time goes long and is detected as it is supposed to, setting the code..
What your doing is removing the pressure of combustion that causes the knock looking to hear the change in the sound..
Hope it makes sense.
Good luck.
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Thanks again Vapour.
Have you put it in?
I'm really scared of boxing myself in even more.
Thanks again,
Dale - Snowtire.
Have you put it in?
I'm really scared of boxing myself in even more.
Thanks again,
Dale - Snowtire.
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Hi Bluegrass 7,& thanks again.
The Ford guy implied that there was no sense in wasting time on this buggered motor.
From what you said, I would remove fuel injection to allow the pcm to register a combustion fault? To locate a cylinder? This makes sense. Was there something I missed here?
I asked the friendly Ford guy & he said it will be throwing every code, making the test ambiguous. (that's my nomenclature...lol). I think he was helping me spend NO MONEY on tests.
Please remember, this 4.6 sounds like a hammer-mill. I knew it was bad news. It's not a tick. More like a constant estwing on an anvil at said RPM.
Still, I really appreciate you advise.
Thanks,
Snowtire.
The Ford guy implied that there was no sense in wasting time on this buggered motor.
From what you said, I would remove fuel injection to allow the pcm to register a combustion fault? To locate a cylinder? This makes sense. Was there something I missed here?
I asked the friendly Ford guy & he said it will be throwing every code, making the test ambiguous. (that's my nomenclature...lol). I think he was helping me spend NO MONEY on tests.
Please remember, this 4.6 sounds like a hammer-mill. I knew it was bad news. It's not a tick. More like a constant estwing on an anvil at said RPM.
Still, I really appreciate you advise.
Thanks,
Snowtire.
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Hi again Bluegrass7.
I just don't listen do I?
I now think you were helping me realize how to identify the diff betwixt rod & main bearing fault. !!!! Am I correct?
Thanks. In the end, it'll make little difference as I'll not be able to fix it. I'll have to replace it.
You're outa my league, but greatly helpful.
Thanks.
Snowtire.
I just don't listen do I?
I now think you were helping me realize how to identify the diff betwixt rod & main bearing fault. !!!! Am I correct?
Thanks. In the end, it'll make little difference as I'll not be able to fix it. I'll have to replace it.
You're outa my league, but greatly helpful.
Thanks.
Snowtire.
More Turbo
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One of the worst I've ever done
Your manual trans might make things more difficult
hopefully someone else will chime in.
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As a 4.2 V6 owner, I can tell you it sounds a lot like a rod knock. 1997-1998 4.2 V6s are and were strong candidates for hydrolock due to poor quality intake manifold gasket. If your motor sounds like this youtube video, get ready for a new or rebuilt motor.
I have two 1998 F150s. Both died a hydrolock death. I rebuilt the single cab stock. But the extended cab begged for a V8 swap. I pulled the radiator and the A/C condensor. With a little care, I was able to pull both the engine and transmission together as one right out the top. No cab pulling necessary.
I have two 1998 F150s. Both died a hydrolock death. I rebuilt the single cab stock. But the extended cab begged for a V8 swap. I pulled the radiator and the A/C condensor. With a little care, I was able to pull both the engine and transmission together as one right out the top. No cab pulling necessary.
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