I am trying to replace the alternator on my '86 F150 302 EFI and am having a difficult time unplugging the two electrical connectors on the underside of the alternator.
I have already broken the "arm" off the inner side of the centermost connector due to the very limited space between the connector and the alternator case and wondered if there is a trick to releasing the connectors without damaging them.
Sure would appreciate any help.
Thank you

 

If you have the alternator I think you have, there are no push/clip-on style connectors at all. You should have three wires on wire rings over threaded studs secured by small nuts. Pull back the boots on the ends of these wires and the nuts should be visible.

There is a high output alternator which was in use at the time which used one two contact plug on the back corner and a single threaded stud/nut connection.

Rick

 

He has the 2G, not the 1G alternator. They are a pain no matter what you do. I usually end up using a small screwdriver to pry the tabs over to release them. I think most of them have at least one broken tab on them.
Recommended to replace the connector that plugs into the alternator, at least if it shows the slightest signs of corrosion or anything.

 

Thank you sirs. I elected to cautiously remove the alternator with the wires attached and then disconnect the wires so I could see better what I was doing. Now I have a reman unit with my old pulley installed so the goal for tomorrow is to re-install the reman alternator on the truck. Any tips on how best to align the upper hole in the alternator with the mounting bracket? The old alternator was extremely tight in the bracket and if the new unit is that tight it will be a challenge to line it up and not cross-thread the retaining bolt. Again, thanks for the responses and help.

 

If you have steel brackets, just loosen the mounting bolts for it a little. If you have the one piece alum. bracket on that side, there should be a steel tube that the bolt tightens against the alternator, just tap that forwards and it will give you some play to install.

 

I hope you have disconnected the battery. That's a common problem after the new alternator is installed, if one of the wires brushes against some metal, it blows the fusible links in the output wires.

 

A good replacement alternator for the 2G will have the output wires permanently attached. You have to cut and splice the wires to prevent the "flaming Ford" syndrome. Be warned, a bad connection there can fry your alternator almost immediately due to the way it senses charging voltage. As for reinstalling, there may be a collar in the front mounting hole in the bracket, if so, drive it forward a small amount. The alternator should slide in after that.

 

i haven't screwed with the 2g much, but i know on the 3g if the little clip/arm thingys on the plugs are broken, the harness is prone to working its way out. make sure they're all secure.

 

81 - I think my bracket is aluminum. I will check for the sleeve as you suggest.

Franklin - I had actually removed the battery to charge it before starting to remove the alternator. "What" is a common problem after the alternator is installed? One of the wires brushing against some metal? There are no bare wires or bare wire connectors on the outside of my alternator. Just a couple of plug connections, one of which is full of grease that the parts guy said was to "protect against corrosion on the terminals". I asked him if it was like dielectric grease and he said yes that it was not necessary to clean out the grease before plugging in the connector. Is this correct?

Here are photos of the back and side of the reman unit I purchased. You can see the gel-like grease in the connector above the "charging problem" sticker:






85 - Don't think we have to do any splicing. Understood on the collar.

josh - Yes, one of the arms broke off the larger plug during removal. Hoping it will hold on the reinstall as the wire bundle has a plastic "retainer clip" that inserts into a hole in the alternator about 4" above where the plug is located.

Thank you all for the good comments.

 

The rectangular 3 pole charging plug with the black/orange wires is prone to overheating and shorting internally.
This can and does result in fires.

Ford issued a TSB, #96214, recommending that the charging pigtail be replaced any time ANY part of the charging system is serviced.

-Bandaid on a bullet wound, if you ask me.-
The higher powered 3G alternator is a simple upgrade that solves the problem.

New pigtails are available from at least eight different aftermarket manufacturers.

 

Yes, I meant wires touching the metal. I guess yours has plugs that can't do it.

The 86 ranger I have had a 2g on it. All the reman alternators I looked at for it were expensive, and WOULD NOT warranty the alternator if a new plug was not installed. I decided to put a GM alternator on it instead.

 

Job complete. Went for test drive and truck ran fine. It was very helpful to tap the sleeve forward and give room to "wiggle" the upper mounting bolt into place. Looked at LMC truck and Rockauto but did not see the "pigtail" so would appreciate the name of a source if convenient. Thank you again for the help.

 

Pico Wiring 5711pt Wiring Harness Pigtail Alternator 3 Pin Ford Ea | eBay

I couldn't find it on Autozone.com, but I'm pretty sure they carry them. Pretty much any parts store should stock it.

 

All of the rebuilts I have gotten lately included the pigtail, already installed. Most of them have it hardwired so it can't be removed.

 

Any of these brands should interchange, and be available locally.

Borg-Warner PT-780
Standard Motor Products S-542
Power Plug 4628011
KEM Parts 350-220
Pico 5711
Dorman 85123
Motormite 08622
NAPA VRA400