Haha, well I just put a new set of BFG all terrains on 3k miles ago. But I will have them rotated and balanced in 1.5k miles or so when I change my oil.

 

I replaced a warped set of factory rotors with the slotted Raybestos from www.rockauto.com. The pricing and delivery was good and no more pedal pulsation.
Mike

 

So far, truck has new brake pads, new shocks, and new tires... many possibilities.
When the new brake pads were installed, did the installer, for some reason, remove and reinstall the brake lines without bleeding calipers?[pulls hard left or right when braking].
I would try bleeding front calipers first... then go from there.

As for vibration without braking... new tires installed, and am under the impression that the vibration didn't exist prior to new tires... could have a bad tire on front(warranty) or a bent wheel from rear that is installed on front now.
As a starting point, try rotating fronts to back/backs to front and see if that makes a difference.

 

Thanks rattle for you're input, was hoping to hear from someone who has tried them.

I'll try doing that when I rotate tires and see if that does anything. If it were that a wheel was bent or something, wouldn't that of showed up a long time ago? All this vibration is fairly new.

 

I will agree with you on a lot of these points. Their fitment charts and customer service do suck. I bought the EBC 3GD rotors for my S4 and got sent ones that were just cross-drilled and they were both for the right hand side. I was told I could just keep them and they would send me the proper set. 5 months later I still didn't have the correct ones and ended up getting my money back. I will likely go with Centric rotors next time. I've always been a fan of Hawk pads though. In fact, I need new rear brakes on my PSD, so I've been wondering myself who to go with.

 

On the Super Duties there is no better pad or rotor than the factory motorcraft.

 

Depends on how slight the bent is... may not have been noticable so much on rear than front... see what happens after rotating... if same vibration is still there, then you've eliminated wheels/tires and can move on to other causes...
Rotor problems tend to show themselves during braking... not leaning torwards them for your vibration problem.

 

Would it be safe to say I probably do need new rotors, and possibly there are other things wrong too? It does seem to shake more when I am braking, especially from higher speeds, and every once in a while it jerks left to right real quick.

 

Shaking more when braking and pulling left or right real quick when braking more agressively would indicate warped rotors... but not the vibration when not braking, unless your calipers are sticking.
Did your mechanic use caliper grease on the slide pins and where the brake pads sit in the caliper when new pads were installed? Did mechanic remove brake lines and not bleed afterwards?( though I cannot see a reason why someone would remove the brake lines to change pads).
Non braking vibration could be a bad tire... thus suggestion to rotate and see if problem moves.
Many possibilities...

 

I'm not really sure what he did with the calipers, or if he did anything. I guess I'll ask him when I take it in.

So I guess to start with, I'll replace rotors with some slotted and drilled Raybestos, I'll have him check out my calipers and what not, and balance and rotate my tires and see if that changes anything. If not, I guess I'll go from there.
Does this sound like a solid plan?

 

Sounds good... be sure and let your mechanic know of your symptoms and when they arose as "he" will be the one actually putting his eyes, hands and experience on the problems test driving for "himself".
Keep us posted.

 

Important to be exact here. Will the steering wheel jerk either direction?

As cheezit mentioned above, usually a stuck caliper pulls the truck towards the stuck caliper when driving without braking, but pulls it to the opposite side when braking. That there is a good test on its own.

Stuck calipers if clamped on the rotor can be a bear to remove. Once the caliper is removed any stuck slide pins are obvious.

To check for an issue with the rotor, after you take off the wheel reinstall 3 of the lug nuts to secure the rotor back in place properly. Rotate the wheel by hand and listen to where it rubs against the brake pads if there is a high spot. Mark the rotor with a crayon at that spot and the nearest lug nut too.
Remove the rotor and reinstall it but at about 180* difference from first position. Reinstall 3 lug nuts and spin it again. See if the new high spot has followed the crayon mark on the rotor or if its still at the lug nut. If it's followed the rotor mark then the issue could be in the rotor. If it's still close to the marked lug nut then inspect the hub area for dirt and rust high spots and clean down as necessary.

 

It's only jerked real hard left and back right twice, but both times if I can remember right it was from left to right while braking. Whenever I'm just driving, it doesn't seem to pull to either side more than the other, it just vibrates, and when I hit a bump it almost always seems to jerk around a bit. I don't know, it's hard to explain over a computer, haha.
And I'll keep everyone updated. May be a week or so, gotta get paid before I spend 400+ on some rotors