Pulsating When Braking
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Pulsating When Braking
Hawk LTS and Powerslot Cryo's
I have a pulsation in my pedal and steering when applying brakes.
The steering wheel rocks from left to right.
I changed the sliding pins on both fronts.
What should I do next?
I'm tired with it right now and thinking for looking for a 2005 4WD or a Expedition XLT or somthing else cause it pissing me off... Thanks!
I have a pulsation in my pedal and steering when applying brakes.
The steering wheel rocks from left to right.
I changed the sliding pins on both fronts.
What should I do next?
I'm tired with it right now and thinking for looking for a 2005 4WD or a Expedition XLT or somthing else cause it pissing me off... Thanks!
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Pulsing is usually warped brake rotors, isn't it? I know I just got my front rotors replaced (they were cracked and warped, causing the pulsing when applying brakes) and the problem is gone completely.
Not sure why your steering would be affected though - perhaps your rotors are more severely warped?
Not sure why your steering would be affected though - perhaps your rotors are more severely warped?
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
They aren't actually warped, but the surface is uneven due to hot spots creating cementite from uneven pad transfer. The problem is usually described as a warped feeling though.
Be that as it may, the OP has already swapped out the problem rotors and replaced them with cryo treated Powerslots. Cryo treated rotors are the permanent solution to the problem described as a warped rotor.
Baj, I had this happen to me on my Excursion back in May of '08. I too was perplexed at the time because I'd been running the Cryo treated Powerslots and Hawk pads for quite some time without a problem (nary a wiggle at all) when slowly but surely the shimmy came back. It turns out the inside face of the passenger side rotor needed to be resurfaced because my hub failed. The hub created a depression in the rotor, as well as the brake pad. The pad was sanded flat, the rotor was brought back to true on the lathe, and the hubs were replaced and everything has been perfect ever since.
Stewart
Be that as it may, the OP has already swapped out the problem rotors and replaced them with cryo treated Powerslots. Cryo treated rotors are the permanent solution to the problem described as a warped rotor.
Baj, I had this happen to me on my Excursion back in May of '08. I too was perplexed at the time because I'd been running the Cryo treated Powerslots and Hawk pads for quite some time without a problem (nary a wiggle at all) when slowly but surely the shimmy came back. It turns out the inside face of the passenger side rotor needed to be resurfaced because my hub failed. The hub created a depression in the rotor, as well as the brake pad. The pad was sanded flat, the rotor was brought back to true on the lathe, and the hubs were replaced and everything has been perfect ever since.
Stewart
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,253
Likes: 763
From: Houston, Texas
They were initially too loose, then too tight, then just right...
Make sure and pack those hubs tight with grease!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 391
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There is a lot of information out there about this. Particularly regarding the Excursion. Mine is an 03 limited w/ a 7.3L.
I learned that the rotors get "hard spots" in the metal of the rotor. Similar to what Stewart_H said. If you have the rotors turned (machined) the hard spots shall be cut down to the same level as the surrounding level. Unfortunately, as the rotors are used the hardened metals wear differently from the surrounding, softer, metal. It is not long, under 500 miles, and you are back where you started. Pulsation as you apply the brakes that is transmitted up through the steering column.
My solution was to purchase Royalty Rotors drilled and slotted rotors and new pads. No more problem. In fact, I have found that they provide better stopping power in water.
I am very happy not having the pulsating. I am more happy not having the Mrs. telling me to "Do Something" about it.
I suggest that you consider drilled rotors. Frozen or not. Get the ones that have chamfered holes.
I learned that the rotors get "hard spots" in the metal of the rotor. Similar to what Stewart_H said. If you have the rotors turned (machined) the hard spots shall be cut down to the same level as the surrounding level. Unfortunately, as the rotors are used the hardened metals wear differently from the surrounding, softer, metal. It is not long, under 500 miles, and you are back where you started. Pulsation as you apply the brakes that is transmitted up through the steering column.
My solution was to purchase Royalty Rotors drilled and slotted rotors and new pads. No more problem. In fact, I have found that they provide better stopping power in water.
I am very happy not having the pulsating. I am more happy not having the Mrs. telling me to "Do Something" about it.
I suggest that you consider drilled rotors. Frozen or not. Get the ones that have chamfered holes.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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I found a shop that turned my front rotors on the truck for about $86. The problem has been gone for 2500 miles. These 2wds sort of suck for rotor replacement because you have to replace the whole hub. It's a lot more work than just throwing a new rotor onto the hub like on the 4wd.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have had this experience with glazed rotors.. driving to hard without proper bedding of the pads.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Finally got the brakes where it was when I first installed the Powerslot Cryo Rotors.... I got then resurfaced and now it feels sooo smooth.
Next problem is the ball joints, how difficult it is to change them and what tools do I need?
Both upper and lower need to be changed!
Where can I get the best priced Moog with the nipples?
Thanks!
Next problem is the ball joints, how difficult it is to change them and what tools do I need?
Both upper and lower need to be changed!
Where can I get the best priced Moog with the nipples?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Finally got the brakes where it was when I first installed the Powerslot Cryo Rotors.... I got then resurfaced and now it feels sooo smooth.
Next problem is the ball joints, how difficult it is to change them and what tools do I need?
Both upper and lower need to be changed!
Where can I get the best priced Moog with the nipples?
Thanks!
Next problem is the ball joints, how difficult it is to change them and what tools do I need?
Both upper and lower need to be changed!
Where can I get the best priced Moog with the nipples?
Thanks!
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Finally got the brakes where it was when I first installed the Powerslot Cryo Rotors.... I got then resurfaced and now it feels sooo smooth.
Next problem is the ball joints, how difficult it is to change them and what tools do I need?
Both upper and lower need to be changed!
Where can I get the best priced Moog with the nipples?
Thanks!
Next problem is the ball joints, how difficult it is to change them and what tools do I need?
Both upper and lower need to be changed!
Where can I get the best priced Moog with the nipples?
Thanks!
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
They are to me.
I put the cryo treated Powerslots (not the regular Powerslots) on my Ex a few years ago. Just recently, when my F250 needed front brakes, I never even considered anything else, just the cryo'd rotors.
Stewart
I put the cryo treated Powerslots (not the regular Powerslots) on my Ex a few years ago. Just recently, when my F250 needed front brakes, I never even considered anything else, just the cryo'd rotors.
Stewart