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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:37 AM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by stainlessstroker95
Darin the irate kit comes with all the boots and clamps.
Gabe, when I talked to Jake he asked if I needed an intercooler boot/clamp kit, and I said I had one. On his site it says its another 195 bucks iirc.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #602  
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O i gottcha ya now. Nevermind haha.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:29 PM
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I'm going to give the rear end the royal treatment. Is this weight OK or should I get the normal weigh? My nephew said at Ford's proving grounds this stuff runs the coolest. Got the cover off, I didn't break any of the bolts but three were broken. So, I'll try 'easy out' and see what happens. When I towed the Geo up to the shop the cruise was surging a little so I tried to pull the VSS out and clean it. I never had to do this before but couldn't get it out. Instead of breaking it I thought I would ask the experts first. It will turn a little but would not come up to get it out.



Finally got this exhaust tube off for cleaning. I could blow thru it, barely. I have it soaking.



The UPS man today make it clear to me that I have to get down to business. He doesn't usually come around here until almost dark but he came this morning. Now, out of curiosity, I broke one head bolt loose to see how hard it was. It wasn't to bad but I'm sure after 36 bolts my arms would feel like falling off. One thing that pisses me off is the springs. There are three bags of shims with just a part number on them. No directions so how in the heck do I know, get some calipers?

 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:44 PM
  #604  
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
I'm going to give the rear end the royal treatment. Is this weight OK or should I get the normal weigh? My nephew said at Ford's proving grounds this stuff runs the coolest. Got the cover off, I didn't break any of the bolts but three were broken. So, I'll try 'easy out' and see owhat happens. When I towed the Geo up to the shop the cruise was surging a little so I tried to pull the VSS out and clean it. I never had to do this before but couldn't get it out. Instead of breaking it I thought I would ask the experts first. It will turn a little but would not come up to get it out.



Finally got this exhaust tube off for cleaning. I could blow thru it, barely. I have it soaking.



The UPS man today make it clear to me that I have to get down to business. He doesn't usually come around here until almost dark but he came this morning. Now, out of curiosity, I broke one head bolt loose to see how hard it was. It wasn't to bad but I'm sure after 36 bolts my arms would feel like falling off. One thing that pisses me off is the springs. There are three bags of shims with just a part number on them. No directions so how in the heck do I know, get some calipers?

Buy the calipers from harbor freight.... They are as accurate as starter. I use both at my job and I build hydraulic pumps motors valves and steering systems for all kinds of equipment....the harbor freight ones lasted twice as long. You could get the vernier style if you are able to read them accurately. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:47 PM
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When you get the height mic it has the measurement on it.just imagine it as the spring.when it measures 1.900 you are there(or what ever the height needs to be) just trial and error to get there.most likely each will take the same amount.intake vs exh amy be different.it just depends on the amount of valve recession(if any) if the values required are different.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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I always have a calipers handy to do springs. Measuring shims, double checking things, etc.

I got mobil one, but the same 75w 140. If I were you I'd just get a new motorcraft vss. When I put my 4.10 rear end in this summer I put a new one in. The other one was stuck real good like you're saying, but with some turning and pulling I got it out without breaking it. Not like it mattered much with a new one going in. The old one had +-200k on it so wasn't real concerned with saving it, but I did.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by joshjen2000
Buy the calipers from harbor freight.... They are as accurate as starter. I use both at my job and I build hydraulic pumps motors valves and steering systems for all kinds of equipment....the harbor freight ones lasted twice as long. You could get the vernier style if you are able to read them accurately. Hope this helps.
Thanks again Josh!


Originally Posted by fordman67
When you get the height mic it has the measurement on it.just imagine it as the spring.when it measures 1.900 you are there(or what ever the height needs to be) just trial and error to get there.most likely each will take the same amount.intake vs exh amy be different.it just depends on the amount of valve recession(if any) if the values required are different.
Sounds good Aaron.

Originally Posted by 427 fordman
I always have a calipers handy to do springs. Measuring shims, double checking things, etc.

I got mobil one, but the same 75w 140. If I were you I'd just get a new motorcraft vss. When I put my 4.10 rear end in this summer I put a new one in. The other one was stuck real good like you're saying, but with some turning and pulling I got it out without breaking it. Not like it mattered much with a new one going in. The old one had +-200k on it so wasn't real concerned with saving it, but I did.
Sounds good Darin, tomorrow on my way out there I'll stop at the Ford dealer again. First it was a short stem thermostat, (190* is the lowest I can find for a short stem), then the LS stuff for the rear end and now a VSS! I might just take out all the rocker arms and push rods while I wait for the spring compressor and mic from Aaron. I'll keep them all in order. It seems to me that it will be easier to do the studs with them out of the way.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #608  
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Yea,that will be the way to go.did the studs come with the arp lube.if so a little goes a long way and make sure to lube nut face to washer surface as well.otherwisw,rock oit sir!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:14 PM
  #609  
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Yea,that will be the way to go.did the studs come with the arp lube? if so a little goes a long way and make sure to lube nut face to washer surface as well.otherwise,rock out sir!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #610  
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Yeah, the lube came with them. Good point to lube the nut face, makes sense. I'll start 'rocking' when I find a torque wrench.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #611  
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Found something interesting. Summit has valve sping keepers at 1.99 a piece for the standard ones and .50 for the hardened ones. I would think the hardened ones would be better but they are a quarter of the cost??
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #612  
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I'm not sure I undestand that, but I'd get the standard ones. Make sure you don't order any that change the installed spring height. You can buy keepers that have the lock raised or lowered, I think at only .050 either way. You just want standard ones, and shim where needed.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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Put in a motorcraft VSS and then went shopping. Found nothing but asian torque wrenches. Got out bid on ebay for an american made craftmen but now I don't want to wait any more. A guy told me at one store to check the pawn shops. They were all junk except this one. It retails for over $400 and I got him down to $140. It was new ten months ago and doesn't even have a oily finger print on it. I hope it works.



 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #614  
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matco digital, nice!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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I hope so Darin, I don't know much about it. I put new battery's in it and I'll give her a try, LOL
 
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