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I have just bought a 76 f250 that has a 428 well just my luck had a rear main seal leaking well my luck continues the crank has play is this normal at all or do i need main bearing can i change them with the motor in the truck do i need to change rod bearing too or just the main bearing motor ran great just leaked oil like a civ.
Crank end play is normal, but it does have to be with in spec.
If your crank end play is to much I would do all the bearings to be safe. As the end bearing is the one that sets up end play, and it allows you to do the seal at the same time. Or vise versa depending on how you want to state it.
No, you can't adjust it. You have to replace the thrust bearing. (the main bearing that has sides on it) Anyway, around .006" is about all you want in there. If it were me, I'd just bite the bullet and pull the engine. Take it to the machine shop and have them go through it. 428's (if that's what it really is) don't grow on trees anymore. There's no sense in trying to band aid something that could lead to a catastrophic failure later on. Spend a little now to freshen it up, or limp it along and shred what you have and be forced to look for another block. (I've seen it too many times)
As the end bearing is the one that sets up end play, and it allows you to do the seal at the same time.
Chevy's thrust bearing is No 5, on Fords the center main (No. 3) is the thrust bearing.
Ford's spec on the crankshaft end play for the FE is .004"-.010" with a max limit of .014"
just an up date i do need to lower end rebuilt looks like main bearing are shot as well as 4 of the rod bearings glad i got it when i did or it could be another one at the scrap yard
bearings are expensive for FE blocks, i just did one. 73.99 just for the mains FYI. it may be worth it to you to buy a reman crank kit for 200? which comes with the correct bearings and all ready to go. Make sure but a 390 kit should work.
the crank is self looks really good and the rods and caps look good should i get it machined anyways or just put new bearings in the re assemble?
Have it mic'ed and polished at a minimum. Check the clearances. Why did the old bearings go bad? How was the compression? If there was an oiling issue, do you think the cam bearings escaped?
the rod bearing wasnt horrible no scoring just the the metal on the surface was rubbed down to what looked like copper havent got to the main bearing yet (tomorrows project) will post what i see
and just wondering im going to keep the 428 regaurd less but does anyone know the factory horse power or torque of it? Or is it a good motor for the truck? i know there in high demand of classic muscle cars, or should i look for a good 390 or 460
and just wondering im going to keep the 428 regaurd less but does anyone know the factory horse power or torque of it? Or is it a good motor for the truck? i know there in high demand of classic muscle cars, or should i look for a good 390 or 460
345/462 under the old SAE Gross HP rating--taken at the flywheel with no exhaust system, underhood air cleaner, accessories. Figure 20% less for SAE Net.
That is the standard rating. CJ's and PI's were higher, although CJ's were rated lower to fool the insurance man.
As for it being a good truck engine, if it runs good once you tidy up your bearing issue and figure out your oiling or other problems, if any, it should be fine. Compression is a bit high at 10.5:1. Does this like premium fuel?
Are you sure it's a 428? Check the markings on the crank and check the stoke. 3.98 is the magic number, so your crank arms should be almost 2".
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