I changed out the tranny fluid for the first time on my Bronco tonight. Its a '96 5.0 with the E4OD. The haynes manual said between 16 and 17 quarts of fluid...the owners manual said 15. So I pulled the pan and changed the tranny filter. Put it all back together and put 14qts in. fired it up and let it run for a while. Checked the level and it looked like there was just some fluid on the stick from the filler tube...Im pretty exhausted though so I could be delerious. I shut it down and put in the last quart. Fired it up and let it run and I checked the level like 20 times and I couldnt for the life of me decide if it was full or if it had fluid on the stick from the filler tube. I finally decided since it was like that for a large part of the stick it was from the tube so I put in one more quart for a total of 16...but I put it in with the engine running and some spilled out so there is probably about 15 3/4 quarts of fluid in the thing. Now I get on here and check things out and it looks like I WAY overfilled it. Does this sound like the case...btw I did not drain the torque converter. Are the figures that the Haynes manual listed for the tranny and the converter? Is it possible that I still need to add a bit of fluid since it did say between 16 and 17 qts?
If its overfilled am I going to have to unbolt the freakin pan again...and why the hell is there not a drain plug on these things?

Thanks

Brett

 

What the manuals are telling you is the FULL CAPACITY of the transmission system, including the torque converter, which in most cases, makes up the majority of that capacity. So, I'd say it's WAY overfilled as you are fearing.

Assuming you're intent was to just change the filter, along with what fluid that came out when you removed the pan (good or bad as it might have been) to get to the filter, the easiest way to determine how much fluid needs to go back in is to estimate how much came out. Hopefully you were able to catch most or all of it and it's still in a container of a known capacity. Measure the amount of the old fluid removed and start by putting just that amount of new fluid in, adding only 1/4 to 1/2 quarts between rechecking the dipstick reading on your warmed-up transmission, set in Park or Neutral, with the engine running and the vehicle on level ground.

As far as why there's no drain plug; an automatic transmission is generally NOT considered to be a "User Serviceable" component. Automatic transmissions are very complex hydro-mechanical devices and they're becoming ever more complex, with computerized electronic controls working in conjunction with the computerized engine power and emmissions management systems. It's not unheard of to hear of an inexperienced or unknowing shade-tree mechanic, however with all good intentions, to unwittingly put potentially harmful fluid in one, sooner or later causing possibly difficult-to-properly-diagnose malfunctions.

Also, by keeping everything contained, from the time the transmission is installed (or replaced by a qualified repair facility) to the time its necessary to diagnose a malfunction, an experienced technician is able to make, at least an educated guess if not a well-seasoned professional assessment, based on the condition of the fluid (fairly normal in composition vs. "cooked") and the quantity and composition of the collected sediments as to the possible cause(s) of the transmission's problems. By the way, the filter is designed so that it allows solids to fall to the bottom of the pan under normal use, and remain there until the pan is removed. Of course, that's excluding unusual events such as the pan colliding with hard or heavy objects.

Wear to the transmission's internal components cannot be avoided. It's a normal process of use. It's either that, or the driver's left (clutch) knee joint. But, wear can be reduced, either by moderating the movement of "right foot" during accelleration, or by taking steps to prevent overheating internal components (mainly the clutches and bands), by sufficiently cooling the transmission fluid. The factory auto-trans cooler is quite satisfactory for normal use in moderate climates. Hotter climates(around the 90's-F and higher), frequent stop-and-go driving and hauling near maximum GVWR loads may require an auxillary cooler in series with the factory unit. Cooler is usually better, but don't go overboard. Too, cool (below 100-F) and the valving operation may be adversely affected, and water (present everywhere in the air in vapor form) may be prevented from effectively evaporating and venting from the housing, causing as much if not more damage to the transmission's components than too much heat would.

I hope this clears up any confusion you may be experiencing and that it doesn't spoil your holiday weekend.

 

Thanks a bunch. This sucks. Time to unbolt the pan again and hope I didnt blow all the seals outta the poor thing.

 

I overfilled mine a little. I pulled the rubber plug at the bottom of the bellhousing and unscrewed the plug in the bottom of the torque converter. I drained a little out there. Not sure if this is a good thing to do, but it seemed to work fine for me.

 

Hello again! I guess I could've suggested a way to unload the excess. Before you go to the trouble and expense of pulling the pan, providing it's well mounted and sealed, you could try pumping the excess out with one of those cheapie kits available at some auto parts stores Siphoning would work but takes a few hours and is a pain to get started, but perhaps less work than dropping the pan again.

If you don't already have any 3/8" vinyl hose, go to your local hardware store where they sell the plumbing for refrigerator ice makers and get several feet. It's a bit stiff but you'll find a way to route it where it doesn't get kinked. Insert the hose into the dipstick tube until it won't go any further. Get ready with a container to catch the fluid at ground level, while not kinking the hose, then get to sucking. Watch for approaching fluid. you don't want in you!

If you can get a hand or electric pump, that would, of course, be much easier and quicker.

Good luck!

 

I have a pump similar to what you are talking about...use it to pump the engine oil out of the 5.7 in the boat. I considered using it but the hose has a water hose type connection on the end of it...too bad a water hose wouldnt fit down the filler tube on the tranny. Anyway I already loosened up the pan and let out the fluid. I'm guesstimating but I think somewhere around 10 quarts came about before it stopped flowing. I buttoned it back up and then it took about 3 more quarts back in to get it in range on the stick with the motor nice and warm.

Note to self: don't work on your car while exhausted and half sick in the middle of the night with poor lighting.

Thanks for your help guys.

Brett

 

Hey Blackbird:

For the next time (hopefully not) you overfill anything... purchase a hand pump syphon. Sure you have to spend a little money for it ... like $10-14 bucks(err, that's Canadian dollars; do the math), but it will be cleaner work & reduces your risk of swallowing fluids. Plus, you don't have to loosen your trans. pan again.

I've used it on a few occasions....