When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey Guys, I am planning on installing taller blocks in the rear so I can clear 35's, I know they will fit without it. The front is getting a 2.5" lift to clear them and the truck sits as is dead level right now (plow package) so I want to keep it level or slightly rear high. I have an 04 F250 5.4l 4x4 Extended cab Short Bed and i just found out there are tapered blocks and i cannot for the life of me find out if my truck has them. If it does does anyone know where i can get some 4" or 5" tall tapered blocks? Thanks in advance.
Reg cab long beds and super cab short beds require a tapered block...not sure why, i think it has to do with driveshaft angles? readylift 4 and 5" blocks are tapered, im running their 4" blocks now
Reg cab long beds and super cab short beds require a tapered block...not sure why, i think it has to do with driveshaft angles? readylift 4 and 5" blocks are tapered, im running their 4" blocks now
Oh OK that's good to know, Acf6 I am essentially going to do the same exact thing you did to squeeze in the 35's how much did the mini pack lift the front of your truck? I want mine to stay level as it sits dead level now but if anything I want it slightly nose down. I was going to use the zone kit so I can get the adjustable trac bar.
My stock F250 was perfectly level before, and the 4" readylift blocks and 2" icon minipack basically just raised it 2" and its still completely level. Although, my front springs werent worn out at all with only 50k miles on them. 35s fit fine, they only rub on the fender liner with my 17x9 -12mm wheels. Im actually having my new 35x12.5s put on tomorrow
Yes the reason for the taper is pinion angle. I have an 06 F350 Long Bed Crew
and the factory 4" are not tapered. The kit I got from ReadyLift came with a
5" tapered set and really kicked my pinion angle to the point I was getting drive off
shudder and the center bearing spaces was not going to cut it. I went back to the 4"
factory and ReadyLift said that they would look into exchanging the ones I have for
the right ones. But this would involve shipping this set back and they are heavy.
The easy way to tell if is on the truck is take a divider. You will find this an
easy way to do this job and much better than holding a tape to it.
Measure the front side and back side of the block as installed and compare
the measurements. they should be equal for a flat block.
Ill have to check them tonight, I'm assuming the taller part of the block goes towards the front of the truck.
I have 91k on my springs and they seem to still be holding perfectly level so I'm hoping i only get the 2.5" up front and not 3.5" so ill see how that goes i guess. How does the 5.4 holdup to the 35's is it kinda sluggish? Do you think i could clear the 35's without any lift or rubbing if my truck sits dead level now? its approx 41" off the ground from the ground to the center of the wheel well.
So I just checked the tire sizes for nitro trail grapplers and the 35" tire is almost 14" wide for an 18" rim, so if I was to drop down to the 34.5" tires would I even need to lift the truck at all to fit them? They would also be roughly 34" under the weight of the truck correct? So its possible to run them stock I would assume since 33s fit.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.