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That's similiar to what I was thinking about doing, except he uses the original power feed(the tan/white wire) to still power the lights.
That's fine, and will save the switch from overheating, but you are still getting your voltage from the fuse box, which has all the other loads on it also. They might burn brighter if you ran another power feed directly from the battery with a circuit breaker. This is the key to the "brighter headlights" modification. They use a separate feed directly from the battery to the headlights, and that makes them brighter along with the heavier wiring.
That's similiar to what I was thinking about doing, except he uses the original power feed(the tan/white wire) to still power the lights.
That's fine, and will save the switch from overheating, but you are still getting your voltage from the fuse box, which has all the other loads on it also. They might burn brighter if you ran another power feed directly from the battery with a circuit breaker. This is the key to the "brighter headlights" modification. They use a separate feed directly from the battery to the headlights, and that makes them brighter along with the heavier wiring.
Yeah that's what I was thinking also, but I also want to use a separate 30 amp rocker switch to power the running lights. In other words I want to take the running lights completely off the headlight switch and make the running lights their own system via the battery, switch, and relays...I think that will work because that's what I did to wire up my offroad lights.
So if I do all this right I will have relays off the battery for the headlights operated on the original headlight switch in order to keep the dimmer for dash lights and have brighter headlights. Then one for the truck running lights, one for trailer running lights, and the one I have for the offroad lights. Then everything burning should burn brighter. I hope...Oh yeah...each one except the headlights will have its own inline 20 amp fuse. The headlight switch will continue to use its fuse on the block...
Correct me if I am not making sense. I have tons of 12 gauge wire I have collected over the years so that will save me tones of money...
There's no point in using a relay and a seperate 30a switch. The whole point of the relay is to switch a high current circuit with a low current switch.
There's no point in using a relay and a seperate 30a switch. The whole point of the relay is to switch a high current circuit with a low current switch.
Yeah I realize that bashby...I am totally separating the running lights off the headlight switch so I have to have another switch to power the relay...I have tons of 30 amp rockers on hand so I am willing to waste a couple to do this...I should have mentioned those too when I said I also have tons of 12 gauge wire. I know its a waste, but at least I will be able to "flash" my running lights like the big trucks...lol
What he is saying, there is no need for the complication and extra wiring to use a relay, when you already have a heavy 30 amp rocker switch. Just use the switch by itself, run the 12 gauge wire to it, and then to the running light wire. Much simpler and cleaner setup.
The reason relays are being used is they want to use the factory light switch. They want it to operate as original to the operator of the vehicle, but they do not want the load going through, so the use of the relays. Also the headlights are up front near the battery, so it makes sense to use relays at that location also, so it limits the length of the wire, you do not have to run all the way into the cab, and then back out.
With your running lights, you are going to be tapping into the original wiring inside the cab, and your switch will be in the cab, so a relay is just more wire and complication that is not needed.
What he is saying, there is no need for the complication and extra wiring to use a relay, when you already have a heavy 30 amp rocker switch. Just use the switch by itself, run the 12 gauge wire to it, and then to the running light wire. Much simpler and cleaner setup.
The reason relays are being used is they want to use the factory light switch. They want it to operate as original to the operator of the vehicle, but they do not want the load going through, so the use of the relays. Also the headlights are up front near the battery, so it makes sense to use relays at that location also, so it limits the length of the wire, you do not have to run all the way into the cab, and then back out.
With your running lights, you are going to be tapping into the original wiring inside the cab, and your switch will be in the cab, so a relay is just more wire and complication that is not needed.
Ok I get it now. I can see there is no need for the relays...you guys are right.
Be aware that some Ford pickup trucks already have a running light relay.
Camper Specials
Trailer Specials
Six Wheelers
etc...
The relay looks similar to the starter solenoid.
Dual Batteries also have a similar relay, except rated for more amps and is used to isolate the two batteries when the engine is off etc...
Yeah there were a few "empty" relays meaning none were hooked up any more. I guess the PO or someone way back when did away with all the wiring. When I got the truck I had to rewire the thing for towing to include a charge wire, brake controller, etc...