Hey everybody. I'm gonna apologize up front if this has been covered over and over again, but I need some advice.

I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on the truck and wasn't sure if there was anything special I needed to do, as opposed to the ol' drain and fill on the gassers. I was reading about making sure to fill up the filter before installation. Do I need to do anything special with the HPOP system, or is that separate? I've talked in the past with guys at work who do this frequently, and of the 3-4 I talked to, all of them said that they have never been able to put in the full 15 qts.?? Anybody have any thoughts on that? I sure don't want to overfill my engine. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Drain pan with plug. Replace plug, might flip that copper washer over.

Slowly spin off filter, get ready to get wet and slippery. Ain't no fun to drop that big ***** full of oil. LOL

I slowly fill new filter and give it time to soak in. This way I get the most oil in there I can.

Carefully spin it on after you coat the rubber ring with fresh oil.

I always under fill with 14 qts. Idle for a few minutes and check oil in an hr or so.

Think the dipstick hash marks is equal to 2 qts. Then I add accordingly for correct level.

 

Can't add much to petrokiller's advice, but here's some suggestions:

-I typically get a Phillips screwdriver and punch a hole in the bottom of the old filter and let it drain before spinning it off. Takes awhile, like 10 minutes or so (drink a beer while waiting, you won't mind as much). That way I don't get much oil slopping over the top on removal.

-MAKE SURE THE OLD RUBBER GASKET CAME OFF. Believe me, those boogers like to hang on up there, and if you make the mistake of putting your new filter on with the old one still there...well, it gets messy. Ask me how I know.

-As for syphoning off the HPOP, well, that's almost fighting words on here. LOTS of heated opinion for and against. Here's my take...if you have the means to easily do it, it can't hurt anything can it? So why not?

-There are a lot of very good filters out there, so please, stay away from the Fram filters. The Motorcraft filter itself is very good, and can be had as cheap as a Fram by picking it up at Wal-Mart for $10, so if you're not sure which to buy, well, always "default" to the Motorcraft. When you have time and money, you should install a bypass filter system as well, at some point in the future. More important than my last recommendation which is...

-Lastly, if you can get it cheap enough, I'd highly recommend getting 100% synthetic oil like the Shell Rotella Full Synthetic. If not, no big deal, but stick with the Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo dino oils.

 

15qts is with a full filter, I think.
A little tip: use a nail (or larger equivalent) to punch a hole in the lowest part of the filter (have a drain pan under it) before loosening it. Allow it to drain a little, loosen the filter and allow it to finish draining before removing it. This stops most of the oil filter mess and keeps you cleaner. And yes, fill the filter before installing it.
I even do this when I change the oil on my small cars.

 

I wouldnt sweat it. You can fill the filter before if you want, or not, it dang sure dont hurt to do it. Ive done it both ways. Dont worry about the oil in the hpop, most consider it not worth the effort to remove. But again, if it makes ya feel better, do it, it dang sure dont hurt to do it. Dont know about not being able to put in all the oil, i put in the whole 4 gallons (16 qts) now, which leaves me a lil high on the stick, not bad. No problems, other than a growling/grinding noise as mentioned in another thread. Could it be too much oil? lol I would reccommend in a fumoto drain valve for future oil changes. That sure make it nice. Also, ive started poking a hole in the filter to drain the oil from it, else it can make a mess should you drop a full filter while removing.

 

Thanks everybody for the replies. Didn't think about a hole in the bottom of the filter, but it's a great idea. FL1995 is ready to go on, with 4 gallons of Delvac (on sale when I bought everything). I won't mess with the HPOP, since this is the first oil change since this 01 jy motor was put in my e99, I'm sure it's still fine. Also I'll be sending in a sample to WIX for analysis. Since this motor's a jy motor, I REALLY want to know what it's like on the inside.

 

I'm not that patient.

 

Dang Tug - You coulda used a 2" hole saw if your in that big a hurry - Wear them safety glasses

 

x2 on the Fumoto valve. The engine must be removed to replace the pan so don't strip the threads. With the Fumoto it's not a worry. Also look out for rust on the pan and get after it before you have a hole.

If you use a Donaldson ELF7405 filter you can get in the full 4 gallons.

 

Make sure you fill the filter first!! The filter itself holds almost 2 quarts, you never want to start any motor with a dry filter! You will introduce air into your injection system and cause most part to be starved for oil for 30 or so seconds while the filter fills up. Quick way to damage parts and injectors! I run Rotella T6 5-40 synthetic with a FL1995 filter. IMHO motorcraft filters (raycor) are the only correct filters for the truck. They are 10.00 at walmart, They also have the best price on oil.

 

Good tip... that hole saw thing. That reminds me... I have a saws-all.

Glasses, yes. If one is under a vehicle that kicks everything up to the undercarriage, it make sense to wear glasses... or don't look up.

I forgot to post this last night:

 

Here is a great informational video from one of our members on FTE, Trey

 

ROFL ... You crack me up, Tugly.

 

It's all part of the service.