Disc Brake conversion
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
been working on the truck a little more during Christmas break. I got new bushings for the radius arms, axle pivots, and sway bar. I am going to use the '79 beams (and spindles of course) but I think I am going to use the '65 radius arms. They look so much better (forged as opposed to...ugly).
If your sway bar came from the '79, the '79 radius arms have notches near where they mount on the beams that are required for the factory sway bar mounting brackets. If your sway bar is aftermarket, then it probably doesn't matter which one you use. 
I swapped the whole setup from a '78 F150 under my '66. Works great but I still wouldn't mind doing a Dakota suspension instead....
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
Happy 4th of July! Although it's not feeling too happy right now. It's pouring rain here across the whole South and we are trying to wrap up the disc brake swap....and it's not wrapping up!
We have been messing with it off and on for months now. We have everything hooked up at this point and have bled it the whole brake system 3-4 times. Basically, they stop the truck well....but the "problem" is that their is a very long pedal travel before it grabs and the pedal basically goes to the floor. It never feels like it's not going to stop, the pedal just doesn't feel like "normal."
In case someone is reading this without going to the beginning, we added the brake booster, front disc brakes, and proportioning valve from a '79 f-150 and have a reman master cylinder. New rubber hoses on the front and at the rear.
I don't know if the pedal should be adjusted? Or if it's something with the booster? The master cylinder doesn't seem to be losing any fluid.
Any ideas appreciated! We're just kind of out of ideas right now. Thanks!
We have been messing with it off and on for months now. We have everything hooked up at this point and have bled it the whole brake system 3-4 times. Basically, they stop the truck well....but the "problem" is that their is a very long pedal travel before it grabs and the pedal basically goes to the floor. It never feels like it's not going to stop, the pedal just doesn't feel like "normal."
In case someone is reading this without going to the beginning, we added the brake booster, front disc brakes, and proportioning valve from a '79 f-150 and have a reman master cylinder. New rubber hoses on the front and at the rear.
I don't know if the pedal should be adjusted? Or if it's something with the booster? The master cylinder doesn't seem to be losing any fluid.
Any ideas appreciated! We're just kind of out of ideas right now. Thanks!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
To start with I'm leaning booster. The blade image looks close to mine, but seems to me to be traveling too far. Are you getting vac. to the booster?
If the brakes are stopping the truck they are working. You are saying the pedal travel to stop is too long right?
John
If the brakes are stopping the truck they are working. You are saying the pedal travel to stop is too long right?
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Happy 4th of July! Although it's not feeling too happy right now. It's pouring rain here across the whole South and we are trying to wrap up the disc brake swap....and it's not wrapping up!
We have been messing with it off and on for months now. We have everything hooked up at this point and have bled it the whole brake system 3-4 times. Basically, they stop the truck well....but the "problem" is that there is a very long pedal travel before it grabs and the pedal basically goes to the floor. It never feels like it's not going to stop, the pedal just doesn't feel like "normal."
In case someone is reading this without going to the beginning, we added the brake booster, front disc brakes, and proportioning valve from a '79 f-150 and have a reman master cylinder. New rubber hoses on the front and at the rear.
I don't know if the pedal should be adjusted? Or if it's something with the booster? The master cylinder doesn't seem to be losing any fluid.
We have been messing with it off and on for months now. We have everything hooked up at this point and have bled it the whole brake system 3-4 times. Basically, they stop the truck well....but the "problem" is that there is a very long pedal travel before it grabs and the pedal basically goes to the floor. It never feels like it's not going to stop, the pedal just doesn't feel like "normal."
In case someone is reading this without going to the beginning, we added the brake booster, front disc brakes, and proportioning valve from a '79 f-150 and have a reman master cylinder. New rubber hoses on the front and at the rear.
I don't know if the pedal should be adjusted? Or if it's something with the booster? The master cylinder doesn't seem to be losing any fluid.
What is the condition of the rear brakes? If re-adjusted, this will decrease the pedal travel somewhat.
Don't expect the self adjusters to do this, as they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the pedal.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
It's just a long way until it seems to hit the spot and stop the truck.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
Thanks for the idea. We did bench bleed it, but it might be worth another try. Thanks!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
You won't see brake fluid if the master cylinder is leaking into the power brake booster, which IMO is the root of the problem, since the pedal goes to the floor.
What is the condition of the rear brakes? If re-adjusted, this will decrease the pedal travel somewhat.
Don't expect the self adjusters to do this, as they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the pedal.
What is the condition of the rear brakes? If re-adjusted, this will decrease the pedal travel somewhat.
Don't expect the self adjusters to do this, as they only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the pedal.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 860
Likes: 13
From: Asheville, NC
I used 79 parts to convert one of our 66s to power disc. The brackets on the booster set the whole mechanism forward so the link rod to the pedal has to be lengthened about 2"; lengthen using an adjustable link so you can set free travel. We purchased a reman booster/Master cylinder assembly using the parts yard unit as a core. First problem the reman unit did not contain the link rod b/w the master and the booster; second problem recovered that link from core at Napa, but the seal was not in good shape and thus vacuum pulled brake fluid from master into booster; called reman company and they insisted it was no way it left their facility w/o link rod; guy at napa ordered another reman unit and gave me link out of it, returned with old link as defective, and apologized -- finally worked correctly.
Know this is simple, but make sure the calipers are installed with the bleeder screw at the highest point.
Good Luck and happy 4th in the soggy south.
Know this is simple, but make sure the calipers are installed with the bleeder screw at the highest point.
Good Luck and happy 4th in the soggy south.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
I used 79 parts to convert one of our 66s to power disc. The brackets on the booster set the whole mechanism forward so the link rod to the pedal has to be lengthened about 2"; lengthen using an adjustable link so you can set free travel. We purchased a reman booster/Master cylinder assembly using the parts yard unit as a core. First problem the reman unit did not contain the link rod b/w the master and the booster; second problem recovered that link from core at Napa, but the seal was not in good shape and thus vacuum pulled brake fluid from master into booster; called reman company and they insisted it was no way it left their facility w/o link rod; guy at napa ordered another reman unit and gave me link out of it, returned with old link as defective, and apologized -- finally worked correctly.
Know this is simple, but make sure the calipers are installed with the bleeder screw at the highest point.
Good Luck and happy 4th in the soggy south.
Know this is simple, but make sure the calipers are installed with the bleeder screw at the highest point.
Good Luck and happy 4th in the soggy south.
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