Disc Brake conversion
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
Disc Brake conversion
Hey guys, I am finally doing the disc brake conversion on my '65 f100, using a '79 donor.
I have read the articles and know the basics, but here comes the real world...so first question.
What brake booster/master cylinder has the flat arm that looks like this?
(stole this pic from another thread)
The one on my '79 has a round one with a flat end with a hole that aims down...
I think I'm just going to buy a reman booster/master anyway, so if there's an easier year, with the flat rod, that would be easier!
I have read the articles and know the basics, but here comes the real world...so first question.
What brake booster/master cylinder has the flat arm that looks like this?
(stole this pic from another thread)
The one on my '79 has a round one with a flat end with a hole that aims down...
I think I'm just going to buy a reman booster/master anyway, so if there's an easier year, with the flat rod, that would be easier!
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Just went throughout the same thing. Not sure about the flat rod deal. But most of the pushrods have a pretty flat eye on the end that look like they are the same thickness as your bar.
I used a booster from a 72 f250, it's a dual diaphragm one that should have some more guts than the standard. The master cylinder is from a 72 f100 as well. Just get a 1" mc. I did have to shorten the pushrod on my booster to work with the existing pedal. You could either grab a complete pedal assembly from your donor car (then you can use the brake switch on the pedal too) or just shorten the pushrod. It's easy to shorten the rod. Just pull it straight out and cut out a section and weld it up. Look for one of the boosters with a threaded end so you can adjust after install.
I used a booster from a 72 f250, it's a dual diaphragm one that should have some more guts than the standard. The master cylinder is from a 72 f100 as well. Just get a 1" mc. I did have to shorten the pushrod on my booster to work with the existing pedal. You could either grab a complete pedal assembly from your donor car (then you can use the brake switch on the pedal too) or just shorten the pushrod. It's easy to shorten the rod. Just pull it straight out and cut out a section and weld it up. Look for one of the boosters with a threaded end so you can adjust after install.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Schuyler I retained my original pedal, and drilled a new hole that allows the pedal to hang closer to the floor. I bought a 76 (last year for the FE). The photo looks like mine.
John
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
1973/79 F100/350: There are TWENTY TWO different brake pedals, NINETEEN different P/B boosters, SEVENTEEN different master cylinders and SEVEN different clutch pedals, I kid you not!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
Some pics of what I got done with some help from my dad and brother in law. This is my first time pulling this apart, it was as easy as everyone says it is, just remove the bolts to everything and roll the front end out.
People mention getting the bracket that holds the brake hose, that one side is riveted and one side is bolted. Is this the bracket that they are talking about?
Thanks.
People mention getting the bracket that holds the brake hose, that one side is riveted and one side is bolted. Is this the bracket that they are talking about?
Thanks.
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
The only other thing I ran into is how the later and earlier systems deal with over travel of the suspension. My 65 had a bracket attached to the I beam that fit into a slot that prevented over travel of the suspension and kept the spring in place. Later suspensions seem to do this by locking both the bottom and top of the spring in place. I grabbed two clips that secure the tops of the springs from my donor car, the holes were already there on my 65. then I used the spring retaining hardware from the new suspension on the bottom.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
Yup. That's the one. The rivet drills out pretty easily. It's the passenger side that is riveted. Honestly I don't see why you couldn't use the originals. I had already snatched the brackets so I used them but the position of the originals seemed fine.
The only other thing I ran into is how the later and earlier systems deal with over travel of the suspension. My 65 had a bracket attached to the I beam that fit into a slot that prevented over travel of the suspension and kept the spring in place. Later suspensions seem to do this by locking both the bottom and top of the spring in place. I grabbed two clips that secure the tops of the springs from my donor car, the holes were already there on my 65. then I used the spring retaining hardware from the new suspension on the bottom.
The only other thing I ran into is how the later and earlier systems deal with over travel of the suspension. My 65 had a bracket attached to the I beam that fit into a slot that prevented over travel of the suspension and kept the spring in place. Later suspensions seem to do this by locking both the bottom and top of the spring in place. I grabbed two clips that secure the tops of the springs from my donor car, the holes were already there on my 65. then I used the spring retaining hardware from the new suspension on the bottom.
I guess I'm lucky, the brackets from both sides of this '79 are bolted on.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 103
You got the swaybar, nice.
I would bolt up the booster and m/c on the 79 brackets then put the brake pedal in place and mark where to cut and drill the flat bar so it bolts to your pedal.
I was lucky and found a set of 66 brackets in the jy. I put the 66 booster and m/c on mine. Im planning on going to 4 wheel discs so I will change to a m/c from a 78 LTD that has 4 wheel discs.
I would bolt up the booster and m/c on the 79 brackets then put the brake pedal in place and mark where to cut and drill the flat bar so it bolts to your pedal.
I was lucky and found a set of 66 brackets in the jy. I put the 66 booster and m/c on mine. Im planning on going to 4 wheel discs so I will change to a m/c from a 78 LTD that has 4 wheel discs.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
D6VZ-2140-A (replaced D5VY-2140-A) .. Master Cylinder 1 1/8" bore ~ Use with rear disc brakes: 1975/76 Thunderbird / 1975/79 Lincoln/Continental Mark IV/V / 1976/78 LTD/Mercury Grand Marquis.
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D5SZ-2C026A Right & D5SZ-2CO27-A Left .. Rear Disc Brake Rotors-Same applications as the master cylinder.
These cars came with 5 lug wheels on a 5.00" bolt circle. F100's have 5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle.
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D5SZ-2C026A Right & D5SZ-2CO27-A Left .. Rear Disc Brake Rotors-Same applications as the master cylinder.
These cars came with 5 lug wheels on a 5.00" bolt circle. F100's have 5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 25, 2012 at 02:10 AM. Reason: same applications as the master cylinder.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Good job Schuyler, If I recall correctly one trucks brake lines go under the chassis rail and the other over. Having that donor on hand can save a lot grief.
I think I grabbed the wiper motor then added delay switch. Start selling body parts, and any other items that you wont use off the donor and your buy cost comes down.
Have fun.
John
I think I grabbed the wiper motor then added delay switch. Start selling body parts, and any other items that you wont use off the donor and your buy cost comes down.
Have fun.
John
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 103
Im going to have the front rotors redrilled to 5x5 to match the rear.
The LTD rear track width is 63" and I can pick oup a set of 15x7 wheels for the rear and 15x6 for the front.
That should even out the F/R track on my 66 pretty close to even.
My neighbor builds trikes and he can cut off the coil spring seats and put on the leaf spring seats for me. Plus I get a rear sway bar as well.
The entire cost of converting from 4 wheel drum to 4 wheel disc and both sway bars will cost me less than $500.
The LTD rear track width is 63" and I can pick oup a set of 15x7 wheels for the rear and 15x6 for the front.
That should even out the F/R track on my 66 pretty close to even.
My neighbor builds trikes and he can cut off the coil spring seats and put on the leaf spring seats for me. Plus I get a rear sway bar as well.
The entire cost of converting from 4 wheel drum to 4 wheel disc and both sway bars will cost me less than $500.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: Montpelier, VA
Hey guys, I am finally doing the disc brake conversion on my '65 f100, using a '79 donor.
I have read the articles and know the basics, but here comes the real world...so first question.
What brake booster/master cylinder has the flat arm that looks like this?
(stole this pic from another thread)
The one on my '79 has a round one with a flat end with a hole that aims down...
I think I'm just going to buy a reman booster/master anyway, so if there's an easier year, with the flat rod, that would be easier!
I have read the articles and know the basics, but here comes the real world...so first question.
What brake booster/master cylinder has the flat arm that looks like this?
(stole this pic from another thread)
The one on my '79 has a round one with a flat end with a hole that aims down...
I think I'm just going to buy a reman booster/master anyway, so if there's an easier year, with the flat rod, that would be easier!
Comparing Clutch/Brake Pedals and Brackets - FORDification.com
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 103
I have the brackets and flat bar off a 78 or 79, I forget which, but it is one of those two years.
The "rod" is a flat bar and does not "aim down". It is a straight piece of flat bar.
If you have everything that bolts from the brake pedal to the booster brackets, buy the booster and m/c for the year that everything came off of.
The only issue you should have is making sure the flat bar is the proper length to bolt to your brake pedal.
If you need a pic, I will post one tomorrow.
I also have the complete setup off a 75. Its in the cab of my parts truck, but I seem to remember it is pretty close to the 78/9 setup.
The "rod" is a flat bar and does not "aim down". It is a straight piece of flat bar.
If you have everything that bolts from the brake pedal to the booster brackets, buy the booster and m/c for the year that everything came off of.
The only issue you should have is making sure the flat bar is the proper length to bolt to your brake pedal.
If you need a pic, I will post one tomorrow.
I also have the complete setup off a 75. Its in the cab of my parts truck, but I seem to remember it is pretty close to the 78/9 setup.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
been working on the truck a little more during Christmas break. I got new bushings for the radius arms, axle pivots, and sway bar. I am going to use the '79 beams (and spindles of course) but I think I am going to use the '65 radius arms. They look so much better (forged as opposed to...ugly).
I have got new tie rods for everything. I'm going to try to see what brake lines I can use, and can bend up some more if I have to. Things are going pretty smoothly, and it's been fun. It's nice to just take my time.
A couple questions. Tonight, I bolted up the power booster just to see where the pedal was at. I am so confused, because the pushrod that attaches to the pedal is too short. It seems like everyone said I would have to shorten it? I don't have the master cylinder hooked up....I guess I will have to see if that makes a difference.
I still haven't found any source that pictures a "flatbar" for the pedal attachment...I only see the one that angles down like mine and straight rods with a hold at the end. I really need to learn to weld...
I'll add a few pics tomorrow.
I have got new tie rods for everything. I'm going to try to see what brake lines I can use, and can bend up some more if I have to. Things are going pretty smoothly, and it's been fun. It's nice to just take my time.
A couple questions. Tonight, I bolted up the power booster just to see where the pedal was at. I am so confused, because the pushrod that attaches to the pedal is too short. It seems like everyone said I would have to shorten it? I don't have the master cylinder hooked up....I guess I will have to see if that makes a difference.
I still haven't found any source that pictures a "flatbar" for the pedal attachment...I only see the one that angles down like mine and straight rods with a hold at the end. I really need to learn to weld...
I'll add a few pics tomorrow.