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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

cowl lacing/vent window rivet tool?

Old Nov 22, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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From: Jackson,Mi 49202
Question cowl lacing/vent window rivet tool?

I have a 1962 Unibody that I have been working on and I am at the point of replacing rubber seals and weatherstripping,ect. I have the vent windows out of the doors and that is where i have encountered a problem.
The vent window pivot bracket is riveted in. It looks like I am unable to remove the window from the frame unless I remove the 2 small rivets holding the pivot in place. I did get new rivets with the rear weatherstrips for the vent windows and I am not replacing them as they are in good condition. I have rear other threads talking about using a punch to flatten out the rivet and that might work. I also have to replace the cowl lacing that is riveted in as well. How do I remove the old rivets but more importantly,how do I install the new rivets as I am unable to get to the underside of the colw to flatten the rivets thus holding the cowl lacing in place? What tool was used to do this originally and is that available somewhere?
This forum is a great source of information and has helped me with this truck. It has a Lincoln 462 engine under the hood which is not original. It came with a 292 Y block. Anyway,one exhaust manifold is cracked-kinda off topic for this thread but does anyone know where I might find another exhaust manifold?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jxnslotcar
I have a 1962 Uni, it has a Lincoln 462 engine under the hood which is not original (no kidding!).

Anyway, one exhaust manifold is cracked, does anyone know where I might find another?
The right exhaust manifold is not the same as the left.

1958/65 Lincoln 430 / 1966/67, early* 1968 Lincoln 462:

B8LY-9430-A .. Right Exhaust Manifold / Obsolete

LINCOLN/MERCURY OLD PARTS STORE in Clearwater FL has ONE = 727-445-7551.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
C6VY-9431-B (replaced B9LE-9431-A, C1VE-9431-B, C1VZ-9431-B & C6VY-9431-A) .. Left Exhaust Manifold / Obsolete

LINCOLN/MERCURY OLD PARTS STORE has ONE.

* Late 1968 Lincoln's came with 460's.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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Thank you,BTW,it is the right manifold that is cracked. Now about what tool is used to install the cowl lacing rivets? Any ideas as to what would be used and where I could get one? Thanks again.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jxnslotcar
Now about what tool is used to install the cowl lacing rivets?

Any ideas as to what would be used and where I could get one?
Pivot located on vent frame, glass retained in vent frame with "glass tape" available from any autoglass shop.

Vent window weatherstrip located between vent frame and vent frame retainer.

1982: I replaced these w/strips on my 1965 F100, don't recall having to mess with the pivots.

Don't know what you're calling cowl lacing rivets. The cowl has nothing to do with doors or any parts thereof.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:22 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Pivot located on vent frame, glass retained in vent frame with "glass tape" available from any autoglass shop.

Vent window weatherstrip located between vent frame and vent frame retainer.

1982: I replaced these w/strips on my 1965 F100, don't recall having to mess with the pivots.

Don't know what you're calling cowl lacing rivets. The cowl has nothing to do with doors or any parts thereof.
The bottom pivot goes through the rubber seal. The rubber seal seals the vent window and the frame it sits in. I am not taking the window out of the frame it is sealed in. The problem is that the lower pivot goes through the rubber seal that I am replacing. If I don't take the window out,I will have to split the rubber which I do not want to do.
the cowl lacing goes on top of cowl and basically seals the hood to the cowl when hood is closed. There are small rivets that hold the rubber cwl lacing to the cowl and I need a way to secure the rivets to the cowl. I am unable to get to the other side of the cowl so I can flatten the rivets and thus secure the rubber seal to the cowl.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jxnslotcar
The bottom pivot goes through the rubber seal. The rubber seal seals the vent window and the frame it sits in. I am not taking the window out of the frame it is sealed in. The problem is that the lower pivot goes through the rubber seal that I am replacing. If I don't take the window out, I will have to split the rubber which I do not want to do.

The cowl panel seal goes on top of cowl and basically seals the hood to the cowl when hood is closed. There are small rivets that hold the rubber cowl seal to the cowl and I need a way to secure the rivets to the cowl.

I am unable to get to the other side of the cowl so I can flatten the rivets and thus secure the rubber seal to the cowl.
Cut the rivets off, replace with screws. When you bought the seal from FoMoCo, the screws came with it.
You aren't telling me anything that I don't already know. I bought a 1965 F100 8' Styleside brand new 3/1965, sold it 11/2009. It went across the pond to Sweden. Plus, was a Ford partsman 1962/97.

You cannot replace the vent w/strip unless you remove the entire assembly from the truck. The vent frame retainer is held in place by two screws. Visable on the outside of the door frame.

The vent frame has a threaded stud made as part of it. Stud passes thru w/strip, thru vent frame retainer into door.

Top to bottom: Has a pivot stop, 2 washers, friction washer, coil spring, then a nut. Remove nut, be prepared as the other parts will fall into the door.

But first, you have to remove the division bar before you can remove the vent frame.

When I replaced the vent w/strips in 1982, also replaced all the other door/window weatherstrips...since it all basically has to come apart.

(sigh) I wish peeps had the '64/72 truck parts catalog (available on a CD from hipoparts.com for 22 bucks). Then they could look at the pic, see how the whole enchilada comes apart...first...before tackling the job.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 07:52 AM
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The cowl lace is actually held by spiral drive nails. You may be able to pull the old ones out with a pair of diagonal cutters. Grip the head and use a counter clockwise twist motion to pull them out. If you can't get them that way grind the heads off and knock the shank into the cowl. Then you can drive the new nails in the old holes. If you think they will be too loose you can weld the hole up and then use a 1/16 bit and drill a starter hole for the new nail. You can use gasket cement in addition to the nails.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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I removed my cowl lacing with a claw hammer. Use a pair of large wire cutters to raise nail heads enough to get the claw under them. Slow and steady being careful not to dent the cowl with the hammer. I used a piece of metal under the hammer head to distribute the force. The replace lacing from Dennis Carpenter or LMC comes with new nails. I will use silicon if the replacement nails are loose. Not sure why it is not just glued down.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Macs1964F100
I removed my cowl lacing with a claw hammer. Use a pair of large wire cutters to raise nail heads enough to get the claw under them. Slow and steady being careful not to dent the cowl with the hammer. I used a piece of metal under the hammer head to distribute the force. The replace lacing from Dennis Carpenter or LMC comes with new nails. I will use silicon if the replacement nails are loose. Not sure why it is not just glued down.
If you haven't ordered yet, PM me. I may be able to help you out.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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When I did my cowl lacing I was able to cleanly pry each nail and then reinstall each nail back and none were loose.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 08:36 AM
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The cowl lacing that I got has new nails with it. I will take out the old nails and then from everyone is saying,I will do a combo of adhesive and new nails. Thank you
AS far as the vent window,I guess I have not made it clear as to where I am at in the process. I have completely taken the door apart. I saw how it must come apart and go back together in the correct sequence. The problem that I have run into is that the threaded stud looks like it must come off of the vent frame so that the front rubber seal can be replaced. The threaded stud appears to have a flat lip that is riveted to the window frame. one of the washers appeas to be pressed onto the threaded stud thus I am unable to remove the vent frame/window from the vent frame retainer. I did get all of the weatherstripping for the door including the one that goes around the door. I would like to show the truck at the AutoRama in Detroit. The show is the 2nd weekend in March so I have some time but time flies when you are having fun. Thanks to all who have answered me in this thread incl Numberdummy,P38fighter,tbm3fan,F250gh,Macs1964f100 . I appreciate you taking the time to help me with this.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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The whole enchilada is shown here in an exploded view:

1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / Illustration Section 200, Page 5.

Several members of this forum (Boss9F100, Old Harley) have this catalog on a CD, can scan, post pics. Catalog available from hipoparts.com

Threaded stud that fits thru w/strip, thru retainer, then into the door, is made as part of vent window frame, is not removable.

Top to bottom, located on stud:

COAB-6422992-A .. Vent Window Pivot Stop / (2) 356425-S .. Washer / 8A-7022963 .. Vent Window Pivot Friction Washer / B5A-7022926-A .. Vent Window Pivot Spring / 353618-S100 .. Nut
 
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