Do injector pumps squeak?

I have something that starts squeaking around about 1200 rpms and only does it under acceleration or load. It doesn't sound like a belt and I have been wondering what it could be.

 

Okay, I will try to be very specific, the IP started to squeak when it would no longer pump fluid to any of the injectors. At first it didn't squeak, and fluid came out normally, but as soon as it started squeaking, no fluid at all. FSS was checked on both pumps.

I have since then installed the new (third) pump, after having to change two of my leaky injectors, replaced under warranty too.

Attached pics is my process,
First pic the batteries are disconnected, fss harness set aside, and lines to injectors are disconnected, I have marked the gear with white paint in the event it moves.

Second shows the mark where the IP was set to, notice there are two punches. The one with the white paint is where the original IP was set, the other is the factory punch mark. I plan on taking it to a diesel shop or getting a pulse timing light eventually.

Third is the removal of the IP itself from the gear tower. Sliding it to the passenger side is the only way I could get it out, I'm assuming this is the proper way. Other than this photo, my other hand was firmly on the gear itself to prevent it from accidentally moving.

Fourth, good time to clean the valley pan! All that crap was the result of 15 years of being in Central Oregon.

Fifth, the IP is all together with the fuel lines, ready to put back in. A picture I didn't load up, I had removed the one way check valve for the fuel return line, and filled the inside of the IP with fresh fuel, and hand turned the pump a few times (3-4 complete turns) to work out any bubbles. I didn't energize the FSS to push out any further.

Sixth, is the popoff pressure for the injectors. The needle is a little off, reads too high by about 50-100 psi, but it helped find two injectors that were leaking, the culprits were cylinder 4 and 5.


The new IP is installed, and does not squeak.. yet. I am still trying to purge the system, I'm giving my starter a break.

 

Okay, I took extra time into it this time, left all 8 fuel lines off of the injectors, cranked it until fuel was coming out all 8 lines, bolted them on, the truck fired up for about 5 seconds, then died, now the new IP is squeaking. Unbolted the fuel line to cylinder #2, and no fuel again. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or do I have bad luck and keep getting poorly rebuilt IP's? I followed the guide that FORDF250HDXLT suggested to every last detail.

 

As someone mentioned before, it sounds like you have a bolt that is too long in the water pump and it is forcing the gear to push back on the IP, this will wreck the hydraulic head on the IP in just a few seconds Pull the top two bolts out of the water pump and I'll bet that at least one of them has been hitting the IP gear

 

I understand that, but I replaced the top two bolts with new ones that are identical in every way, length included. Only change I made was I put a lock washer on them that was thicker than the stock washer. I will look into it next weekend, as changing the IP twice in two days is very tiring.

 

just......................in case.

 

Pfffffffff now I just feel stupid, measure the bolts, but not the housing... Good thing I still have the old water pump. I checked them and what do you know... one is shorter. The "new" one. I'll get back to you guys with what happens next. At least now I believe that the squeak is the blown hydraulic head.

 

Just in case ..... like the info fordf250

 

Awesome info here, thanks for the pics, Nero.
Looks like you may have saved the day, F250
Nero, you should be able to swap out that IP in your sleep, now.
Let us know what the outcome is.

 

Hey guys look what I found

If I fix the bolt, should that be enough? Or should I replace the gear due to the mild ring it has now? I do have a spare one, but timing it would suck.

By the way, I removed the tower without removing the gear, I had removed the pump prior to tower removal, making it easy.

 

nope.not me.fermert was all over this one.
i simply found some diagram info to help double check,that's all.

 

So I have decided to just replace the gear, which I know is a tedious process due to aligning the Y timing marks, but I figured it would be best I do it rather than risk my pump gear being out of balance.

I do have a question about the pump itself though. The replacement I received has this nut on it, the original IP didn't have one, should I be worried about this? Or should I return it and get the correct one? I read somewhere that it is a limiter of some sort, specifically for 1992-ish trucks?

By the way, it took me about 40 minutes to remove the IP, as soon as I find out about that nut in the pic, I'll time myself to see how long it takes to put in.
Edit: It takes about 90 minutes to install one to take your time on it and do it right.

 

That is a "torque screw", (optional) on some models.
At "full load" "governed speed", this screw can be adjusted to increase fuel flow, in a sense, it open's or closes the metering fuel vale at a pre-determined setting.
In short, just another adjustment you would use when using a dyno to increase torque.
I suggest "you" leave it as is.

 

I didn't have intentions on changing the settings of the torque screw, from what I understand I can bolt this onto my '89 non-turbo and it will work just fine, (since I have corrected the water pump bolt) correct?

 

Yes you will be good to go with that pump. Glad you figured out your problems.