2000 7.3 stalled, no start
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Junior User
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2000 7.3 stalled, no start
Hi, I have a 2000 7.3 auto. Last week ran out of fuel and low on oil. Got it back up after some fuel than stalled again, added oil then started up, filled up and she was fine. Over the weekend hauling 10 times heavy loads, on the highway at 45-50mph she would hiccup here or there, not a ton but a few times randomly and then not do it at all.
Yesterday afternoon coming home from work she stalled, just under the 1/4 tank pin mark, on a flat road. Added 5 gallons of fresh diesel nothing, towed home. Tried new CPS, checked fuel bowl, flows fuel, etc. Slight leak at fuel filter cap o-ring (its wet). Batteries ran low been charging them and have been above 10.5volts.
I got no smoke/fumes out the exhaust. Got fuel to the bowl/pump etc. Fairly clean fuel filter. Hooked AE and ran it. Buzz test x5 checks out very good. ICP 0psi. Unhooked ICP 2300psi+ spike on crank. over 100rpms, 10.5v+, etc. Check for loose wires, connectors, fuses all check out. Not that cold out.
Oh, oil leak, very slight, I haven't found yet, had oil in the valley earlier this year but even since my new stealth pump, none in valley.
There is oil in the Hpop, just around an inch from top.
Yesterday afternoon coming home from work she stalled, just under the 1/4 tank pin mark, on a flat road. Added 5 gallons of fresh diesel nothing, towed home. Tried new CPS, checked fuel bowl, flows fuel, etc. Slight leak at fuel filter cap o-ring (its wet). Batteries ran low been charging them and have been above 10.5volts.
I got no smoke/fumes out the exhaust. Got fuel to the bowl/pump etc. Fairly clean fuel filter. Hooked AE and ran it. Buzz test x5 checks out very good. ICP 0psi. Unhooked ICP 2300psi+ spike on crank. over 100rpms, 10.5v+, etc. Check for loose wires, connectors, fuses all check out. Not that cold out.
Oh, oil leak, very slight, I haven't found yet, had oil in the valley earlier this year but even since my new stealth pump, none in valley.
There is oil in the Hpop, just around an inch from top.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
I had these exact same symptoms once, it was a bad IPR. My ICP would start off low, it would stay under 100 PSI... and that was the end of the show. Air in oil can cause the IPR to malfunction until the air is worked out, requiring a really long crank and watching to see if the ICP keeps climbing. If the ICP doesn't climb while cranking (and you have an RPM on the tach)... bad IPR.
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Junior User
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I had these exact same symptoms once, it was a bad IPR. My ICP would start off low, it would stay under 100 PSI... and that was the end of the show. Air in oil can cause the IPR to malfunction until the air is worked out, requiring a really long crank and watching to see if the ICP keeps climbing. If the ICP doesn't climb while cranking (and you have an RPM on the tach)... bad IPR.
New IPR and ICP unplugged now I have a "Service engine soon" light at start. Cranked over and read
2313psi at 33% duty cycle
RPM around 130-150
Plenty of battery power
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
If you're having these problems below a 1/4 tank...I'll bet you a dime-to-a-donut-hole that your fuel pickup foot in the tank has broken. Therefore, you're likely sucking air at the tank (starts to run really rough, maybe even romping?). To solve, simply fill up your tank to a 1/4 or above, and cycle your key a few times to get the fuel pump to prime the fuel. It will run rough at first because you have air in the system...but after driving it for about 2-3 miles, it will purge out (idling won't help). Fill 'er up, prime it, and see if she'll crank.
Could be your CPS...but I'll bet you you've got a broken pickup foot. It's happened on both my Excursions, in fact "HIS" still hasn't been fixed after 2-3 years. I'm lazy, and just keep the fuel tank above a 1/4.
Could be your CPS...but I'll bet you you've got a broken pickup foot. It's happened on both my Excursions, in fact "HIS" still hasn't been fixed after 2-3 years. I'm lazy, and just keep the fuel tank above a 1/4.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
First of all...sorry, I thought you had topped it off, it ran fine, then started doing it again below 1/4 tank. My bad. I missed the CPS outright. DOH!
OK, so based on this...it would seem to indicate your IPR is bad, if I'm reading your message right. With ICP plugged in and you're getting 0 psi, then unplugging ICP you're getting 2300 psi...you're not really getting 2300 psi, but rather the computer is going to default reading of 2300 psi. This happened to me when my IPR went bad. You could technically pull the IPR, take it apart, and clean it up really good, and it may be good to go.
Here's a link to the thread when it happened to me...my ICP and IPR numbers were almost identical to yours. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-suspects.html
The hard part is getting a tool that works. Most deep well sockets are literally about 1/8 to 1/4 inch too short. NAPA sells one that is perfect length, which is part number NTD-36 and UPC 1499420489 (1 1/8", 1/2 drive). I think I paid $5.xx for it, even though list price was something stupid like $18-20. I didn't have to haggle with them, but if they have it at list, I'm sure they can find a way to make it $6.00 for you.
Here's a link to the thread when it happened to me...my ICP and IPR numbers were almost identical to yours. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-suspects.html
The hard part is getting a tool that works. Most deep well sockets are literally about 1/8 to 1/4 inch too short. NAPA sells one that is perfect length, which is part number NTD-36 and UPC 1499420489 (1 1/8", 1/2 drive). I think I paid $5.xx for it, even though list price was something stupid like $18-20. I didn't have to haggle with them, but if they have it at list, I'm sure they can find a way to make it $6.00 for you.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
If you have the ICP unplugged, you won't get any useful data regarding ICP pressure or IPR duty cycle. It goes into a default program when you unplug the ICP. It also trips the CEL, so that's the source of your light.
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Junior User
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No apology's necessary, its Thanksgiving!!! 
Looked at your thread, looks promising. I did just install a new IPR so it should have worked? Going to try it with the ICP plugged back in.
Looked at your thread, looks promising. I did just install a new IPR so it should have worked? Going to try it with the ICP plugged back in.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 915
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From: Palatka, FL
I know you said you installed a new IPR but if you want to clean out your old one then look below.
OK. Here is the link for pulling and cleaning your IPR or the IPR R&R . GO TO POST #9 and open up the PDF document. It would help if you had a bench vise to help disassemble the IPR. You should be able to just use regular pliers or channelocks to loosen the stem from the body. It is much cheaper than purchasing another IPR.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/93...clean-ipr.html
<!-- / message -->
OK. Here is the link for pulling and cleaning your IPR or the IPR R&R . GO TO POST #9 and open up the PDF document. It would help if you had a bench vise to help disassemble the IPR. You should be able to just use regular pliers or channelocks to loosen the stem from the body. It is much cheaper than purchasing another IPR.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/93...clean-ipr.html
<!-- / message -->
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Junior User
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I know you said you installed a new IPR but if you want to clean out your old one then look below.
OK. Here is the link for pulling and cleaning your IPR or the IPR R&R . GO TO POST #9 and open up the PDF document. It would help if you had a bench vise to help disassemble the IPR. You should be able to just use regular pliers or channelocks to loosen the stem from the body. It is much cheaper than purchasing another IPR.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/93...clean-ipr.html
<!-- / message -->
OK. Here is the link for pulling and cleaning your IPR or the IPR R&R . GO TO POST #9 and open up the PDF document. It would help if you had a bench vise to help disassemble the IPR. You should be able to just use regular pliers or channelocks to loosen the stem from the body. It is much cheaper than purchasing another IPR.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/93...clean-ipr.html
<!-- / message -->
Thanks for that, I did plan on doing that, was just in a hurry, I know the parts guys and can return the new, just needed the truck up as soon as possible and that obviously isn't happening.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Chris...HA! Beat you to it by one minute! But, in all fairness...you're the one that TAUGHT ME that in the first place (included in the link I gave). So, I guess the lesson stuck. 
marcomjl, when you go to restart your truck...it's going to be tough. You're likely going to have to let it crank for 20-30 seconds before it fires up. It will run a bit rough for 20-30 miles while it purges all the air out of the oil system, or at least, mine did. Just an FYI.
marcomjl, when you go to restart your truck...it's going to be tough. You're likely going to have to let it crank for 20-30 seconds before it fires up. It will run a bit rough for 20-30 miles while it purges all the air out of the oil system, or at least, mine did. Just an FYI.
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I didn't get a chance to work on the truck today, was going to get a new ICP but was thinking. If I try starting with it plugged I get no reading, with it unplugged I get a reading of 2300psi but that's it. If that's the case, it isn't the ICP then?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
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From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Now, was there oil coming out of the electrical connection of your ICP? If so, then yes, the ICP is either going bad or is bad, as it should be dry. But, I'd hate to see you buy another $130 sensor to throw at the problem if that's not it.
Did you try cranking the engine for 20-30 seconds after replacing your IPR? It takes a very, very long crank to get it to fire over if you've replaced the IPR, as there's a lot of air in your system. If after 20-30 seconds it doesn't start, give your starter a 5 minute break before trying again. And, you may need to make sure you've recharged both of your batteries before you attempt this...as unsuccessful cranks quickly drain the batteries. You need something like 12.5 or higher on each.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
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From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
OH...you said you replaced the IPR. Did you top-off the oil in your HPOP before trying to start? If not, it won't start no matter how much cranking. It need about 1/2 to 2/3 quart.