Grrrrrr...no start, no codes, checked usual suspects
#1
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
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Grrrrrr...no start, no codes, checked usual suspects
Well, I'm a bit stumped. "HIS" truck won't start. Was working just fine, it sat for about 4 days, and then, won't start. It cranks, but sounds like it's starved for fuel. No check engine light on, WTS goes out like normal. Hooked up AE and there are no codes, except when I do a KOEO test, I get a P0605 (see #7 below). So here's what I've checked:
1. Fuel pump seems to be working fine. When I key on, the fuel pressure builds up to 80 psi (pre-filter port in the fuel bowl).
2. ICP sensor had no oil in the plug, but disconnected anyway and attempted to start, didn't work.
3. IPR nut is on securely (wasn't loose).
4. Oil is full, I even added oil into the HPOP reservoir "just in case" the LPOP was leaking down.
5. Batteries are fully charged, ohming at 14.26 each
6. I suspected it may have been the starter, which had 211,000 miles on it, so I replaced it. Not the problem (although the new one is really cranking strong!!!)
7. Due to the P0605 code, I pulled my chip out. Still no start.
8. CPS replaced with a spare, no start.
9. Because it's an Excursion, it has a GPCM instead of a GPR. However, the GPCM usually would throw codes that AE sees when acting up, and I have no codes. The GPCM is about 8 months old, if not newer.
10. Glow plugs are all 6 months old, with new UVCHs.
11. Fuel cut-off switch is not the problem.
I may have checked a few other things, but this is all I can remember at present.
Any ideas?
1. Fuel pump seems to be working fine. When I key on, the fuel pressure builds up to 80 psi (pre-filter port in the fuel bowl).
2. ICP sensor had no oil in the plug, but disconnected anyway and attempted to start, didn't work.
3. IPR nut is on securely (wasn't loose).
4. Oil is full, I even added oil into the HPOP reservoir "just in case" the LPOP was leaking down.
5. Batteries are fully charged, ohming at 14.26 each
6. I suspected it may have been the starter, which had 211,000 miles on it, so I replaced it. Not the problem (although the new one is really cranking strong!!!)
7. Due to the P0605 code, I pulled my chip out. Still no start.
8. CPS replaced with a spare, no start.
9. Because it's an Excursion, it has a GPCM instead of a GPR. However, the GPCM usually would throw codes that AE sees when acting up, and I have no codes. The GPCM is about 8 months old, if not newer.
10. Glow plugs are all 6 months old, with new UVCHs.
11. Fuel cut-off switch is not the problem.
I may have checked a few other things, but this is all I can remember at present.
Any ideas?
#2
#3
I had a similar problem about a year and a half ago. No clue as to why it wouldn't start. I would turn it over and over and over and no luck. The first thing I tried was a review of all the fuses. I pulled and reseated the one for the fuel bowl heater, along with most the others, and tried the ignition and it turned over and ran strong. Not that this is the issue, but don't rule out a simple check of the fuses.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Chris:
No, I have not. Maybe I will do that. But cranking for 20 secs? Won't that burn up the starter?
Twg1966:
Yeah, I thought about that...it's fuse 30. Usually when there's a fuel bowl heater issue, the WTS light doesn't come on. But what the heck, I'll pull that fuse and look at it. Maybe pull the heater wire. I *think* it's disconnected anyway, but I will double-check. Sure would be a quick easy fix.
No, I have not. Maybe I will do that. But cranking for 20 secs? Won't that burn up the starter?
Twg1966:
Yeah, I thought about that...it's fuse 30. Usually when there's a fuel bowl heater issue, the WTS light doesn't come on. But what the heck, I'll pull that fuse and look at it. Maybe pull the heater wire. I *think* it's disconnected anyway, but I will double-check. Sure would be a quick easy fix.
#6
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I checked, and I already had the fuel heater disconnected. I pulled the fuse and it *looked* good. Reinserted. Haven't tried cranking it, as I have a trickle-charger on there juicing up the batteries after all this cranking. Was only at 13.5, but figure I'll get it back up to 14+ before cranking again.
#7
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#8
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#10
Not trying to hi-jack someones thread but i am dealing w the same problems right now and i AM hearing the veru quick clicking sound. Now my truck is just dead. Nothing, not even a crank or any dash lights or radio or air.....nothing
#11
Requirements to start a 7.3
Vehicle Power : *10.5v ****************************************Vehicle Power : 10.5v
RPM Signal : 100rpm ******************************************RPM Signal : 100rpm
Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : *0.85v (about 500psi) *****Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : 0.85v (about 500psi)
Fuel Pulse Width : *1 to 6 milliseconds ***************Fuel Pulse Width : *0.5 to 2 milliseconds *
Vehicle Power : *10.5v ****************************************Vehicle Power : 10.5v
RPM Signal : 100rpm ******************************************RPM Signal : 100rpm
Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : *0.85v (about 500psi) *****Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : 0.85v (about 500psi)
Fuel Pulse Width : *1 to 6 milliseconds ***************Fuel Pulse Width : *0.5 to 2 milliseconds *
#14
#15
I agree with the look at you batteries. If they need replaced, always replace both, never just one.