V10 Engine Knocking problem
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V10 Engine Knocking problem
I have a 2000 F250 SD V10 and i have been having a knock problem for a while. I have replaced timing chains, guides, gears, tensioners the whole bit in the front of the motor. Flex Plate and the torque converter and transmission. I have always maintained my oil changes and im starting to use motorcraft oil filters now. Tomorrow im gonna change the spark plugs...fun task i know i have already done it once before. I have a knocking sound that is there no matter if the truck is cold, warmed up, or sat overnight. it knocks between 1500rpms-2500rpms and once it shifts gears i do not hear it but it does it every gear and i can really hear it if i step on it and left off the gas. oh yea also have replaced the manifolds, studs, and y pipe with jba headers, stage 8 locking header studs and the headers came with a new y pipe. please i need help and i need to decide if i need to get rid of this truck and trade it in to the dealer or sell it. if you can call me im near my phone all the time and would appreciate the help. if you go online at R&J Lawn and Snow, Michigan's Best! my number is on there and it transfers to my cell phone. please do not be a stranger.
Thanks Raymond
Thanks Raymond
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Sorry i dont know what you mean by ignition knock or pre ignition. It knocks right where the trans and motor bolt up. I can hear it at idle sittiong and knocks whenbi i get to 1400-2500rpms when i drive
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No not a diesel motor sound. Like today i was driving pulling my trailer with two commercial mowers and under load i dont hear it unless i let off the gas. It sounds lije a motor knock but i have not had any loss in power. The knock speeda yp with more rpms the i dont hear it after i shift until i get in the certain rpm range.
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From: Home Base Nebraska
No not a diesel motor sound. Like today i was driving pulling my trailer with two commercial mowers and under load i dont hear it unless i let off the gas. It sounds lije a motor knock but i have not had any loss in power. The knock speeda yp with more rpms the i dont hear it after i shift until i get in the certain rpm range.
. All the things you have done with the exhaust so far will just make it worse not better. Denny
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Yea but i hear it right at where the motor and trans bolt bolt up. So you think i should get an 01 y pipe and try that?
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From: Home Base Nebraska
Will you be able to use a standard Y pipe with the aftermarket headers? On ours it sounded like it was at the back of the motor more on the passenger side than the drivers and when we were pulling it was louder. Our sounded like a very very bad lifter or wist pin but I knew it wasn't because it was only during a a certain rpm range about like yours. If you change the Y pipe don't use the rams horn one used in the 99, 00 and early 01 trucks you want the necked down one an if I remember you will also have to change the pipe going to the cat. The only difference between my two V10 trucks was the one that made the noise was a SC DRW with EGR and the other one was a CC SRW without EGR both F350 with 4.30 gears.
Denny
Denny
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If you can, try to take it to someone with a more "experienced" ear. I have done many, many engine diagnosis/repairs both with rod knocks as well as other problems and I have never had any problem distinguishing a rod knock. It doesn't sound like anything else.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Take a piece of hose and put it to your ear so you can narrow it down and disable the spark one at a time towards the back. Look in the converter area also. We can't diagnose it from here. Take it to a couple garages.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Itinerant
If it's a rod or lifter, it literally has a sound you now that you should get it looked at sooner better than later. I know because I thought I could go just a little further and cost me an engine when part of the #1 intake valve broke and dropped into the engine. It started quiet than over a period of time got just a little louder.
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