My V10 spun some bearings and everyone I talked to said that I would be just as well off $ wise to just replace it, so I ordered a Ford reman. I've been told to replace the oil pan with a baffled one because I spend time in the sand dunes and they think it gets starved for oil. Any idea where to get one of these? Also, I am considering headers. If ever i am going to do them now is the time. Is any one using them, if so, what and why?

 

I think you may have to install baffles in a stock on. Don't think Ford would have offered two different pans for the V10.

Lots of folks use the eBay headers with no real issues. Saves you a bunch of dough, too. Check down in the V10 forum. Thorleys are also very popular.

 

Motor is in and headers installed. Mechanic told me that the headers were an easy install that if he took them apart he could reinstall them in 15 minutes. They fit without any mods. They look good and no more restrictive Y pipe. No real noticeable difference in sound. I am not supposed to take the motor up above 2500rpm for the first 500 miles, so I really don't know the difference in performance yet. I will post pics as soon as the mech sends them to me. One ? though, if anyone knows. The old motor called for 5W30 and the new one 5W20 does this seem right?

 

5W20 sounds right to me.

 

Who said not to take it above 2500rpm?!

 

what can you tell us about your V-10 engine failure ? What "bearing spun". ? Modern motors rarely have connecting rod or main bearing trouble absent some manufacturing issue and/or operator abuse.

As many of you know from other posts, I am not particularly fond of the Ford Motor Company. However, I have to admit a admiration for the durability of its gasoline motors. So I am very interested in your story ! Can you give us more details ?

 

Started having oil pressure issues in the dunes, first replaced the sensor and then replaced the oil pump, timing gear set and oil cooler (cracked when replacing the sensor). Mechanic said the tensioners on the timing chain failed and sent shaving to the screen and clogged it. Also, he said that their was evidence of oil failure ie; sludge and varnish. I've been running Wal Mart synthetic for over a year because it was my understanding that it is refined and botled by Mobil. After all that, I drove it around for 3 days and headed back to the dunes and had pressure problems again and a bunch of lower end knocking afterward. Ford dealership said most likely rod bearings and it would be just as much to replace the engine as to do a bearing job so I went with a Ford Reman and threw Thorley headers on while it was out of the truck.

Mechanic who did install and Ford recommendation for break in is under 2500 RPM for the first 500-1000 miles.

 

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My recommendation is ANY time you have an indication of low oil pressure - again ANY time, shut the engine down and isolate the problem. Driving more than a few minutes with REAL low oil pressure ( as distinguished from a simple oil pressure guage sensor failure) guarantees destruction of the motor, at least from an economic stand-point.

I am surprised you could find a build-up of sludge in a motor using ANY "off the shelf" oil that contains the words "meets or exceeds engine manufacturer's specs". In fact, I am suspicious there is more to this story than you have told us so far.

One of my favorite "pet peeves" is with the oil industry's goofy advertising, that called the introduction of "dispersant" oils in the early 1950's "detergent" oils. Be assured there is NO such thing as a "detergent" oil - the term is simply an attempt to explain to the layman what the new (again, early 1950's) additives do. They simply PREVENT the carbon "link-ups" that create sludge. My understanding from commercial gasoline and diesel truck practice is that modern oils (again, that contain the phrase "meets or exceeds engine maker's specs" should be good for at least 5,000 mi. Absent SEVERE over-heating and / or significantly exceeding oil change recommendations, I am unclear how you could get sludge build-up.

Have you gotten an explanation from your repair facility as to which came first ? The failure of the tensionor DUE to sludge ? Or the creation of sludge due to over-heating coming from the blockage of the oil pump ?

There are various "protocols" in the "dealer-factory" contracts that require dealers to report on failures like this. Obviously, the factory would want to know about such failures. Perhaps you can get more info. for us thru that source?