ok now I have 2 problems then huh... What if any recommendations should I do next?

 

ok then let me ask this what is a good scanner for my truck that would tell me issues?

 

with the E40D trans (at least the 92-94 for idi trucks.as i understand,previous years may not have a blinking light) the OD light on the column will flash steady whenever there is a code (or more) stored in the tcm (trans control mod)
the reason for the light (codes) are far too vast to speculate.a $20 code scanner will narrow it right down if not outright in many cases direct you to the issue(s.)

as a side effect,the trans may shift very firm wile the light flashes.it's very important to limit the trucks use until the issue is corrected (unhooking the battery to clear the code in an attempt to make it shift correctly momentarily,doesn't count.)

any obd1 ford scanner should do the trick.example:
Actron/OBD I code scanner (CP9015) | Code Reader | AutoZone.com

with KOEO (key on,engine off) for the idi,remember to hold wide open throttle or you'll get false code 23 (fipl/tps)

the scanner plugs in,out under the hood.look up on the inner drivers side fender,near the hood hinge.you'll see the plastic clip.slide out the 2 plugs directly down out of the clip and plug in the scanner with the hold function on.turn the key forward to run (engine off) hold the throttle cable wide open position,turn hold on scanner off.count beeps/flashes of scanner.write them down.

once you get the codes,it would be best to start a new thread with them,along with the trans symptoms.

 

ok got the scanner figured might as well by one got a snap on for 500.00 so it says o2 sensor and code for timing ignition... My guess is that at ths point someone has moved timing for pump to get better millage until I ohm the o2 sensor that is... ant input on this issue diesel junkie...lloll

 

Well before I was able to replace the mlps connector the tranny went bang an stop pulling in any gear again. Going out to test pressure. Stumped since I just replaced shaft and od planetarys to steel and new billet 3 clutch convertor. Any ideas what broke? I called a repair guy and he said $950 to build or $1650 he'll build it like a John Woods. Just sux have to go and repull trans again. Why if he can build it like John Woods I'll let him. Guess today be a good day to replace mlps connector while I'm under there and order solenoid connector and replace it too. Where I can go to test Convertor cheap is next move. He said he will install Tugger shift kit install extra foward direct and intermediate clutches new planet and sunshell. machine the pump to accept oversize Sonnax gears grind pressure andbacking plates to add another clutch. Does it sound like he knows what he is doing? It did keep blowing the fuse not sure what is causing that, but I replaced it with a circuit breaker fuse.

 

Broken input shaft most likely.

 

I replaced the input shaft with billet steel when I changed the od planetarys,I had to it's a shorter shaft when using the steel planetarys the aluminum planetarys shaft was about 1/2-1" longer

 

I pulled tranny and discovered the new torque converter had failed. The shaft has trashed teeth on the very end of it and the shaft feels like it slips in the teeth of the torque converter. TPU torque converter was installed in Nov 2011. Only a 90 day warranty,triple disc clutch and billet steel. I should have kept the stock one. Could the fuse blowing problem have caused this? While I was removing the wires to change out MLPS, one wire pulled free from the female connector. It is a wierd shaped connector. Can't find one yet. Anyone have idea's where it can be purchased? It is a U-shaped female connector.

 

Bad input shaft.

The connector is available with a new range sensor.

You can reinsert the pulled wire. Unless its broken, then you will need a new pin.

 

It was not the pin. I have a new range sensor and plug. Whille removing wire from plug the female connector attached on the end of wire harness pulled off. I can't find the exact replacement. Went to 2 dealerships, was told to bring in another wire to match it up. Which would mean cutting another wire off. I've been to junk yards no good there.I did find a co. that sells the repair harness with new plug already attached, now just have to wait on it to be shipped.

 

Ok got torque converter rebuit from co. that built it. Installed new solenoid plug and mlps connector. Put synthetic fluid in, started truck had 1 qt to much (truck not sitting level) removed the extra qt. Took test drive and first to second hard shift. second to third fast and sloppy, overdrive normal. Took it out on highway and it shifted better between second and third. Tried taking it out of overdrive and bam trans downshifted real hard. Started looking for other causes and articles were saying Fipl,solenoids, or pcm. I've replaced all connectors plus speed sensor. I did notice gear lever was a littlle off position. Haven't removed circuit breaker yet to see if it blows the 20 amp fuse. Going to put reader on it today to see what codes it gives. Last time I did it said speed sensor (replaced) then it said Fipl haven't checked or changed. Cleared codes then checked again code said speed sensor. Not an electrical genius here so I'm stumped. Just checked codes and got 23o,67o,67c,93o,99o,99c. I hope I didn't mess the wires up on new solenoid plug I replaced one at a time. I'll check mlps again but it was lined up with the mark, or could the shifter need adjusting? I'll do the test on the fipl next.

 

Guess if it's solenoids need to know where to get cheap.

 

Ok so I went out and cut all wires on the solenoid plug one at a time a soldererd them together. I then pulled the neutral plug and the the one wire I replaced I cut and soldered it. examined wires up to where the two go into one sleeve no bad wires. Did notice one wire has two wires coming into one on the neutral harness. Retested codes and only got 67 both o&c. Neutral Pressure switch circuit failure is o. C is air cond compressor switch fault. I also replaced one relay for ecm. Should I drive it or is there something else I can do. I checked mlps alignment and it appears perfect.

 

when diagnosing the E4od be aware that the 2-3 shift includes converter lock up, and the 3-4 shift also. the e40d will shift to second very quickly, under light load, or light throttle, the 2-3 shift can feel hard or feel like its to high a gear. cuz its in lockup, most HD converters wont unlock under load, till tps asks for a down shift, to feel all shifts with out lockup turn on your flashers, as this disables converter lock up at all speeds, a good converter will lock hard and feel like a shift, if you toe the brake peddle when driving it will unlock converter and relock when you let off the brake peddle. manual down shifts with the OD switch will feel hard, and firm, when you let off the throttle in OD it will coast, when you let off in 3rd it will not. it should feel like a down shift in a manual trans with engine braking. an erratic signal from tach sensor can make converter lock and unlock at strange speeds and times, if the E40d has a short in the shift solenoid valves or other wireing, and shifts in to two gears at the same time it can destroy the trans, it is called a bind up, and can rip the splins out of the OD planatry . be very carful when adjusting mlps

 

Tried readjusting mlps, it still hard shifted 2nd. Cleaned all grounds and replaced battery cable ends applied dielectric grease. Cleaned all brake lights and put on dielectric grease.Took truck for spin it got worse started shifting hard in all gears then downshifting hard. Still getting code 67o and 67 c. Issues with truck. Like I said when it kept blowing fuse 22, truck would start but trans went to limp mode replace fuse with breaker fuse. Replaced bad relay in power dist box. Glow plug controller only clicks once but truck starts after light goes out. 3 mos ago changed alt and the gauge in truck read 18 volts, not reading that now. Had it tested they said alt was good. OD light doesn't work but switch does. Radio has been switching from radio to tape on it's own, mostly stays on tape. I think I have an electrical nightmare going on. I have replaced vss, both tranny connectors, and mlps. Disabled,no income due to truck being down, waiting for SSI so funds are limited now, anyway to test computer or tell if solenoids are working properly? I guees tps replacement next and disconnecting fuel heater plug then running volt check on alt is all I can think of. Not an electrical genius here. I want to thank all who have hepled so far just not sure what to do next.