Ok y'all confused me. The fipl was replaced 2 years ago along with injector pump. Transmission was rebuilt shortly after.But either torque converter or the aluminium overdrive gears(which cracked and shaft was spinning inside hence no tranny movement),why I replaced torque converter with 3 clutch billett, and steel overdrive gears and new shorter shaft. I realize I should check fipl,which ford techs had a hard time adjusting and the local diesel shop set timing, also was told by them they couldn't really time it perfect because I was missing timing set up. If I look at front of engine I see a slash in crank pully and a small tube over top of this and a tag with timing marks, I never understood what they meant and she rolls a little black smoke under full throttle ( which if your sitting near my exhaust and your playing that crap music to loud you get a dose). Rock auto calls for part # sw 5063 for replacement of my no F5TP-7F293AA is this correct? I have 8 pins in my switch now.

 

After changing mlps and new speed sensor it would still shift in limp mode not all the time. It seems on warmer days it acts up, thinking new tranny cooler. Well today driving it she decided to only shift 2nd and 4th I think, takes off like in third or 4th at a dead stop, if I pull it down to 2nd she moves. Tried 1st but it still felt like 2nd. then shift to drive feels like 4th and no passing gear. I also noticed today only tach stopped working. These electrical gremlins are breaking me. I guess tach sensor next? PCM? Rabs? new Fipl? It was producing 2 codes with O'reillys OBD1 reader saying speed sensor and fipl changed speed sensor then it said mlps, changed it to new and the old looks like the upgrade. Read codes again and got speed sensor and fipl again. Haven't read codes today after tach quit. Loss for what to change next.

 

Check the tach sensor wires for damage. If they are good replace your tach sensor.

The TCM needs a tach signal in order to operate correctly.

 

Ok feel like a real d--- a-- now. My friend said did you check fuses? no I said. It was a 20 amp fuse blown to power control module. I wouldn't think the trans
would pull at all with just a blown fuse. Guess you learn something new everyday. You guys are great, learn a lot here.

 

about a month after I bought my truck it went into limp mode, turned out it was also just a fuse, never figured out what made it blow though.

 

Fuse has blown 3 times once right away and I drove for 2 mos before other blew just recently. I need to change both plugs on transmission since both locking tabs have broken. Which would be better wiring the solenoid plug with the wire connectors supplied or doing like I have to do with mlps switch. Which is to get the tool to remove pin connectors and replace plug. Will the Lisle connector tool do this job or am I going to have to buy the $185 dollar kit. I've been thinking this also has a grounding problem, but all grounds are connected as far as I can see. Electrical gremlins bite it big time if you don't know where to look,or the many places to look. Things left to replace are both plugs to tranny and Fipl, and tach sensor, tach is working now with replaced fuse. Could brake lights cause this also, just a thought? In all the time I've owned the truck (19yrs.) only one brake light has ever blown.

 

for the solenoid pack plug,use the supplied heat shrink connectors.this way here,you get to cut back some old wiring and insure they're clean where you connect them.while changing the plug,make sure the s-pack plug itself gets cleaned very well too.
for the mlps.use the one i linked to.no special tool required.it comes with instructions too.
these connectors are vital for proper trans operation.
closely inspect the complete wiring harness.a fairly common place for issues is up around the frame rail where the harness runs up and though the plug up there where it connects under the brake master cylinder remains fairly clean cus its up high.it's not a bad idea to unclip there and make sure to clean and grease it too,along with the main plug into the trans electronic control unit.old trucks.old wires.inspect and clean them very good if you want to lick these issues for trouble free years.

as to post #19,
you can tell when the relay or that 20 amp fuse blows because the OD light will be on about 1/2 it's brightness (when normally canceled) all the time and the switch wont work/no cancel of od.
now,also off from this 20A fuse for the trans controller,ford cheaply ran a line out of it to also power the fuel filter heater.be sure to inspect this line.perhaps consider deleting it if you find a short,or repair it.if you want the heater line though,i suggest deleting it and running your own power source,so that it's no longer on the main trans power line.

 

Then how do you remove wires from MLPS plug without a pin removal tool? All I got was the switch and the plug ,no extra wiring.Also my OD light has not worked in years even after replacing the button, button works. I did go to NAPA and buy a 20 amp circuit breaker until I figure this problem out. At the same time this started happening my radio has decided to switch from radio to tape without tape inserted,every now and then radio starts playing. Just before this I also had to replace the o-ring in the fuel heater-filter bowl. So you see not sure what the real culprit is. Plan on installing new radio soon, gotta have my tunes man. I am purchasing the Lislye (spelling) pin removal tool at pep boys, need to do the door light switch also. I will check connection under the Brake master cylinder also. Fuse will blow everytime the weather is cold,below 30* so it could be the fuel heater. Anything else it could be?

 

I use a small jewelers screwdriver to pop the pins.

Works like a champ.

 

Check the two wires coming out of your tach sensor, which is left of the vacuum pump. Looks like a 1' nut with two wires coming out of the center. Those wires can cause a short through your vacuum pump, causing all kind of strange trans issues. Took me two years to track that down, as it can be months between problems. Then OD-light would blink and more codes. Throw money at it by replacing all the parts the tranny guys want to upgrade. Would work fine for while and start all over again. I found out by accident as my vacuum pump took the shaft after 180 000miles, and two wires of tach sensor were chafed through right as they come out of the sensor. Replaced sensor and never had a problem again. I did apply some RTV to that spot to support the wires from bending to much. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks will be checking everything you guys suggested. This is a great site have helped some on here but have recieved more help than I give. I always research problems before just jumping in and replacing crap. My code reader had me replace a lot of stuff not needed, the codes cleared but came back two days later. Electrical gets me everytime and it's expensive to get diagnosed.

 

there are 2 holes on the connector that looks like they might have pins in them on the bottom of the connector with the pin hols . There are two release tabs in there. After you get them released you can just pull the red piece on the inside out and it will come apart from there.

 

I saw u talking about a light on shifter ... my ford f350 crew cab 7.3 turbo has OD button at end and light sometimes flashes? Should i worry?

 

If your light is flashing, you have an issue. Try counting the flashes, it will give you the code.

 

the od cancel light doesn't flash codes.