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C6 Main Seal....

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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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C6 Main Seal....

Well its started to leak on me today It must be leaking as i drive cuz ive noticed that i was about two quarts low and i filled it like two weeks ago about. Is there a one piece seal for this cuz the 2 piece just sounds like asking for an oil leak?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Are you talking about the rear main ENGINE seal or the front TRANS seal?
The rear main for the engine is two piece, no way to make it a one piece seal. When you install it you "offset" the ends of the seal so it won't leak.
If you're refering to the trans seal, that's one piece. While you're at it, replace the front pump outer O-ring seal too.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
Are you talking about the rear main ENGINE seal or the front TRANS seal?
The rear main for the engine is two piece, no way to make it a one piece seal. When you install it you "offset" the ends of the seal so it won't leak.
If you're refering to the trans seal, that's one piece. While you're at it, replace the front pump outer O-ring seal too.

Well my dad says rear main oil seal like where the tranny mates to the block?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Is the fluid leaking out red or yellowish/brown?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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Brown. Its 10w30 haha. I do need to replace the tranny pan gasket eventualy but no its not red tranny fluid.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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The rear main seal is your most likely culprit. But before you pull the pan and rear main cap there are a couple of things to check.
The first thing I would do is clean the back of the engine real good with a power washer then take the truck for a good drive. When you get back look and see if there are any signs of leaking from the top of the engine. Check the back of the intake manifold, the valve covers. Another possibility is the oil pan itself is leaking.
If everything else checks out, it looks like it's time to pull the pan.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
The rear main seal is your most likely culprit. But before you pull the pan and rear main cap there are a couple of things to check.
The first thing I would do is clean the back of the engine real good with a power washer then take the truck for a good drive. When you get back look and see if there are any signs of leaking from the top of the engine. Check the back of the intake manifold, the valve covers. Another possibility is the oil pan itself is leaking.
If everything else checks out, it looks like it's time to pull the pan.
Yup been there done that. Pan looks like it seeps a tiny bit but its from the rear main seal I hate the seal. So is that the single or double gasket?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:03 PM
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As Mike said earlier, the rear main seal is a double rope seal, it needs to be offset to prevent it from leaking. Local auto parts houses usually have the tool to pull the rope around the top part of the crank, pull it down about a 1/4"-5/16" past the block surface. Ease the other half of the seal into where the 1st part of the seal was pulled thru. Carefully install the rear main cap into place with the seal setting in the groove, careful not to pinch the seal out of the groove. Torque to specs.
Hope this helps......BB
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoboy100
As Mike said earlier, the rear main seal is a double rope seal, it needs to be offset to prevent it from leaking. Local auto parts houses usually have the tool to pull the rope around the top part of the crank, pull it down about a 1/4"-5/16" past the block surface. Ease the other half of the seal into where the 1st part of the seal was pulled thru. Carefully install the rear main cap into place with the seal setting in the groove, careful not to pinch the seal out of the groove. Torque to specs.
Hope this helps......BB
Alrighty, thanks!

And thanks MIKE!!!!

Just thought of something. Its been getting really cold here at night is it possible the seal is contracting and leaking at night?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Use a neoprene seal and Right Stuff gasket sealer.

Clean everything as good as you can.

Install the seal.

Squirt Right Stuff into the two channels then push the side seals in.

Squish some more right stuff into the center of the side seals then jam the nails in.

Done.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Use a neoprene seal and Right Stuff gasket sealer.
Clean everything as good as you can.
Install the seal.
Squirt Right Stuff into the two channels then push the side seals in.
Squish some more right stuff into the center of the side seals then jam the nails in.
Done.
Josh
Josh beat me to it. I was going to say if your truck still has a rope seal definitely use a neoprene seal for the replacement.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
Josh beat me to it. I was going to say if your truck still has a rope seal definitely use a neoprene seal for the replacement.
Where do i find a "Neoprene Seal"? I cant seem to find one.....
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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The last time I encountered a new FE rope seal was 1994. Fel-Pro, Mr Gasket, Victor Reinz and the store off-brands all make rubber rear mains.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
The last time I encountered a new FE rope seal was 1994. Fel-Pro, Mr Gasket, Victor Reinz and the store off-brands all make rubber rear mains.

Josh
Yeah, the split neoprene (rubber) seal is pretty much the standard now days. I still (on rare occasions) see a rope seal in gasket sets.
The first picture is a rope seal, the second a neoprene seal.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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Fel-Pro BS30138 About $18 at O'reilly Auto

Same thing at NAPA... FPG BS30138

Josh
 
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