What mod should I do next
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
I would not recommend that you use the Trans Command and the DP at the same time.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Lots of guys have to take off the trans command with a tuner, should of asked here first. Do the upgrade to late 99 with the 38R from Clay. After that sticks. You think you have power now, just watch.
Chet
Chet
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 9
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
I think you had the right intentions getting the trans-command, but getting the BTS or John Wood Valve body would be a better choice for a transmission saver/mod.
Choosing the next mod, isn't as easy as just posting on here to the masses with "What do you think" You should think about what you'll use the truck for, post that up, and get some better responses. For example....if you do heavy towing at all, I would suggest a better intercooler, either a 6.0IC or the more spendy Spearco and assorted other brands. You get what you pay for, but I got great results with my 6.0 IC.
Choosing the next mod, isn't as easy as just posting on here to the masses with "What do you think" You should think about what you'll use the truck for, post that up, and get some better responses. For example....if you do heavy towing at all, I would suggest a better intercooler, either a 6.0IC or the more spendy Spearco and assorted other brands. You get what you pay for, but I got great results with my 6.0 IC.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 19
From: Archdale,N.C.
Trending Topics
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
Hutch/harpoon, .50 mod, Frx, HPx...... IN THEORY you should do mods that give you piece of mind before adding power......... I should take my own advice 
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Joe Kucinski
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 915
Likes: 3
From: Palatka, FL
Do the 50 cent mod and then do the hutch mod/in fuel tank mod.
For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o
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Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 gallon pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work.<v:shape style="WIDTH: 19.5pt; HEIGHT: 21pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_2 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/party0031.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1027"> <v:imagedata o:title="party0031" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image002.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage<v:shape style="WIDTH: 45pt; HEIGHT: 30pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_3 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/party0005.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1026"> <v:imagedata o:title="party0005" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image003.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership <v:shape style="WIDTH: 48.75pt; HEIGHT: 37.5pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_4 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/sick0021.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:title="sick0021" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image004.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne
For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o
referrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"> <v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></vath><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:shape style="WIDTH: 11.25pt; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_1 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/biglaugh.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1028"><v:imagedata o:title="biglaugh" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image001.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 gallon pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work.<v:shape style="WIDTH: 19.5pt; HEIGHT: 21pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_2 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/party0031.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1027"> <v:imagedata o:title="party0031" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image002.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage<v:shape style="WIDTH: 45pt; HEIGHT: 30pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_3 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/party0005.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1026"> <v:imagedata o:title="party0005" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image003.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership <v:shape style="WIDTH: 48.75pt; HEIGHT: 37.5pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_4 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/sick0021.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:title="sick0021" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image004.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 915
Likes: 3
From: Palatka, FL
That is because you have not had a problem with injectors not firing and low/no power from the UVCH yet. The 50 cent mod literally cost 50 cent and about 2.5 hours of your time for both sides completed.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Backing up the bus beep beep beep
UP_There and JOHN2001 started touching on it. Make the truck 100% is first, while keeping the ultimate goal in mind for your truck. Examples:
As for whether you need to do the 50-cent mod now or later, ohm out your connectors to see if there are any imbalances. There is a big 42-pin connector over the driver-side valve cover.
UP_There and JOHN2001 started touching on it. Make the truck 100% is first, while keeping the ultimate goal in mind for your truck. Examples:
- I didn't know if my truck was 100% or not, so I got AE and started learning what to look for. It took time, but the first thing I learned was my HPOP wasn't game for the power I had, let alone more. I decided to upgrade the HPOP, and I installed the FRx and rebuilt the fuel bowl since it was removed for the HPOP install.
- I did the full hutch/harpoon mod. I knew I was going to replace injectors soon and I wanted to treat them right - plus quieting the cackle was a nice result.
- The PO put cheezy mods on my truck and I didn't know it until I compared my engine with pictures on the forum. I removed the alleged mods.
- My transmission failed before I even modded up... so the transmission was the first thing on my list.
- Many here talk about the transmission cooler, JW valve body, BTS, plus I mentioned a failed transmission... do we see a pattern? That chip helps with the shifting already, but that's as far as its help goes. Your tranny needs mechanical aid to survive the beast yanking on the leash. I chose a tougher tranny because I live in mountainous terrain and I tow.
- AE Showed me a few things about my truck.
- Intake and exhaust are all about more air for more power and less EGTs.
- Doing the Hutch mod taught me it should have been #1 on the list.
- My F6 chip let me get very picky about all aspects of the tunes and the shifts in my stock days and now.
- My injectors and turbo were selected for icing up the EGTs... and they get it done. Cruising 65 MPH (empty) on the flat with no wind and my EGTs are 525-600 (sensor at outlet of manifold - the hottest location). I did the 50-cent mod here, plus replaced all glowplugs.
As for whether you need to do the 50-cent mod now or later, ohm out your connectors to see if there are any imbalances. There is a big 42-pin connector over the driver-side valve cover.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
I have had that issue. I just installed the updated harness from the dealer. No need for the mod
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