Battery not charging
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Freshman User
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Battery not charging
I replaced the battery about a year ago so when it stopped charging, I assumed it was the alternator. Took the old alternator into the auto store and they tested and confirmed it was bad. So I installed the new alt but it's still not charging the battery. And while the truck is running, voltage at the battery is still not getting above 12v. When I used an external charger, the battery voltage was 13.8v while charging and then dropped below 12v after disconnecting the charging unit.
2 questions:
1. How can I confirm (or rule out) the battery?
2. Is there a relay or regulator that can be checked? If so, how?
I've tried to trace some of the wires around to see if there was anything visably wrong. Also checked all the fuses.
Thanks.
2 questions:
1. How can I confirm (or rule out) the battery?
2. Is there a relay or regulator that can be checked? If so, how?
I've tried to trace some of the wires around to see if there was anything visably wrong. Also checked all the fuses.
Thanks.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,049
Likes: 1,603
From: Seattle
Make sure you disconnect the two main battery terminals and clean them well with a wire brush. Corrosion can keep the battery from taking a charge.
The regulator on my truck is mounted on the radiator core support just to the passengers side of the radiator.
The regulator on my truck is mounted on the radiator core support just to the passengers side of the radiator.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
ALL batteries sold over the past 30 some years are "wet" have the acid in them, may sit on shelves for years before being sold. If older than 6 months: PASS!
At one time batteries came dry, autoparts stores/dealers had 50 gallon tanks filled with acid, had a nylon hose attached to spigot on tank.
Remove battery caps, fill each cell with acid. Most dealers/parts stores didn't have any rubber gloves or eye protection available. Guess what could and did happen?
Acid splashed into peeps eyes, blinding them for life. US Gov't (EPA/OSHA) said no more dry cell batteries could be sold.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 700
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From: Fairbanks
charge the battery and then take it to a parts store and have them do a load check on it. if it is good you should check the voltmeter. On our trucks they are not part of the alternator. Depending on how far it is to the parts store you could drive there and have them check it for you.
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Freshman User
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Cleaned the terminals and connectors with a wire brush (they were pretty clean to begin with). I also check the battery for a manufacturer's date - didn't see one (unless it's on the bottom). It's a Diehard from Sears so I imagine they turn over their inventory regularly (maybe not). Anyway, I took it back to Sears (because it's still under warrenty) - they load-tested and recharged the battery to about 12.8v. I put 'er in and the truck starts right up. After the truck is warm, I would expect about 14v but it's at 12.38v - doesn't seem to be recharging. I'm guessing I have a few more starts before it drops below 12v again.
What's the next thing to check out, the regulator?
What's the next thing to check out, the regulator?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Fairbanks
The easiest way is to charge the battery and then drive it to the parts store they will normally do a charging check for free.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Near Nashille, TN
Probably your regulator.. Seems like I've always had to replace the regulator when changing the alternator.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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Yep, that was it. Took the truck up to the auto parts store and they tested it (for free). They were able to pinpoint the voltage regulator specifically. As soon as I replaced it, voltage at the battery was 14.3v while running - right where it should be.
Thanks as always for your help.
Thanks as always for your help.
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