Lets about talk GEM's
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Lets about talk GEM's
2001 F-350 XLT CCLB
My drivers door unlock button does not work. I have power to the switch, continuity test indicates switch is good, have ground on both wires at actuator, when pressing lock have 12 volts in wire at actuator, when pressing unlock have nothing in the other wire. So since the "relay" is in the GEM do I need a new one? From what I read I have to go to the stealership? Or can any of you recommend a company to program one for my truck with key fob?
Open to any suggestions on trying to fix this without replacing the GEM.
My drivers door unlock button does not work. I have power to the switch, continuity test indicates switch is good, have ground on both wires at actuator, when pressing lock have 12 volts in wire at actuator, when pressing unlock have nothing in the other wire. So since the "relay" is in the GEM do I need a new one? From what I read I have to go to the stealership? Or can any of you recommend a company to program one for my truck with key fob?
Open to any suggestions on trying to fix this without replacing the GEM.
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 454
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From: Portland, OR
This happened to me a while back. I took the passenger switch and plugged it in on the driver's side to positively ID the problem as the switch. Then just ordered a switch on ebay. The switches are mirror images of each other, FYI, so if that's it be sure to get the right one (not that I know anything about ordering the wrong one...).
That being said, the door lock motors are pretty notorious for going out later in life, too. I have a crew cab and a couple weeks ago made it 4 for 4 on door lock motors. Easy to replace of course. Door panels come off very easily. Kind of a nice change from most car door interior panels.
There's really not much more going on in the system than those components and the wiring between them. Hope that gets you fixed up.
That being said, the door lock motors are pretty notorious for going out later in life, too. I have a crew cab and a couple weeks ago made it 4 for 4 on door lock motors. Easy to replace of course. Door panels come off very easily. Kind of a nice change from most car door interior panels.
There's really not much more going on in the system than those components and the wiring between them. Hope that gets you fixed up.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
This happened to me a while back. I took the passenger switch and plugged it in on the driver's side to positively ID the problem as the switch. Then just ordered a switch on ebay. The switches are mirror images of each other, FYI, so if that's it be sure to get the right one (not that I know anything about ordering the wrong one...).
That being said, the door lock motors are pretty notorious for going out later in life, too. I have a crew cab and a couple weeks ago made it 4 for 4 on door lock motors. Easy to replace of course. Door panels come off very easily. Kind of a nice change from most car door interior panels.
There's really not much more going on in the system than those components and the wiring between them. Hope that gets you fixed up.
That being said, the door lock motors are pretty notorious for going out later in life, too. I have a crew cab and a couple weeks ago made it 4 for 4 on door lock motors. Easy to replace of course. Door panels come off very easily. Kind of a nice change from most car door interior panels.
There's really not much more going on in the system than those components and the wiring between them. Hope that gets you fixed up.
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
It's nice to catch a break every now and then, huh?
I just ordered the switch off ebay motors. There's some different styles, so be sure to compare the pic, too. Or stealership or Napa I guess should work fine, too.
Not sure about the continuity test, there's 5 poles on the back of that thing if I remember correctly. That looked like a pain, so I just swapped them to start eliminating things. There's some really incredible guys on here that can probably explain the switch testing really well if you're curious.
I just ordered the switch off ebay motors. There's some different styles, so be sure to compare the pic, too. Or stealership or Napa I guess should work fine, too.
Not sure about the continuity test, there's 5 poles on the back of that thing if I remember correctly. That looked like a pain, so I just swapped them to start eliminating things. There's some really incredible guys on here that can probably explain the switch testing really well if you're curious.
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
There's just some plastic clips around it, use a small screwdriver to pry them from around the lock tabs in the switch housing. I'll pull mine and post some pics for you later today and show you what I mean.
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curbthrasher
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Mar 27, 2008 09:32 PM
