Sorry this is going to be a bit long but I want to make sure all the info is there to hopefully best help me out here. A little background: It’s a 2010 F250 V10, sucked a valve at 80 thousand so I got a salvage motor complete from automotix with 32 thousand on it. Somewhere in shipping the engine was dumped over on the front (from what I can figure out from the scuffs and broken camshaft sensor) and it’s had oil run throughout the intake. I used the intake off of the old motor but there was some remaining oil left in the intake ports on the heads. I used new motorcraft plugs and new COP boots. Once she was all back together, she fired right up, obviously smoking quite a bit burning off the oil. Didn’t smoke more than 30 minutes. I ran a full tank through with sea foam. Next tank I used regular with no sea foam. I had 80 miles on that tank today when I started through the mountains. I was climbing a hill and the check engine light was flashing and I started hearing a vague ticking. I got up the hill and the tick went away and the check engine light went steady. I pulled over and popped the hood and heard a light tick that went away shortly after then heard some (sucking or blowing) from driver side which also went away. It was running a little choppy but no mechanical sounds. I headed for the house and it ran ok, some missing but not bad and the check engine light would start flashing at 65. Parked it for a few hours then jumped back in to go get the codes pulled. Ran a little worse feeling a little more choppy. Codes pulled were 2 random misfires, 1 misfire on startup, and a bunch of cylinder misfires. Pretty much every cylinder had misfired from both banks. I’m at a loss her fellas. I dumped more sea foam in and headed home, it ran much worse, even did the whole rough as he!! Idle at the stop light. Any ideas here would be so much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

The ticking/sucking sounds... exhaust leak? Gotta figure out what that sound is before you go any further.

Sounds almost like a vacuum leak overall, except that the 2010 should throw a lean code if it was bad enough to cause misfires.

 

well I know for sure it wasn't an exhaust leak. I was thinking maybe an injector or possibly the deal on the fuel rail that the vacuum line hooks to. There were no codes other than misfires.

 

Are all boots seated on plugs? Are coils seated?

 

Yes and yes.

 

random misfires with no consistency and worse goin up hills? ? my un-educated shot in the dark is mud somewhere near or at the injectors.

i went to fill up last year and right before i stuck the nozzle in, i noticed mud/grass all over the end of it, with a bunch in the end.
it looked like someone dragged the nozzle through mud that was caked on near their gas cap, and just put it back on the pump without noticing.
... just an easy way for crud to get into a brand new tank. $.02 - best of luck

 

Well fellas I think I have ruled out all suggestions thus far. Checked all vacuum lines, injector and COP connections, and exhaust for leaks. If it were a clogged injector, wouldnt it throw a code? Any other advice? Thanks

 

Try noid lights?

 

Thats a negative. They test the voltage at the injector right? Iv never used them before. Do you think that could be the problem here?

 

Worth a shot. And you can rent them from parts store.

 

All ten checked out with the noid lights. Any other suggestions?

 

Did u check fuel pressure? Which cylinders misfired? Maybe new plugs are caked in that oil...

 

Double check plugs are all seated an torqued to 14 ft-lbs. Coils on those cylinders that msfire might be bad.

 

That "deal" on the fuel rail is a fuel pressure regulator - definitely check the fuel pressure - at idle, it should be 28-30 lbs, at WOT it should be 38-40. You can simulate WOT by disconnecting the vacuum at the regulator. Report back.

 

I assume you did replace that broken CPS, right? Connector didn't get bent?