Slow start/long crank time
#1
Slow start/long crank time
Since the weather changed back in September I've been plugging my truck in at night. All seemed to be fine at first.
The past three weeks, the time that I have to crank the engine to get it to start has become appreciably longer. It used to start after two seconds now it's more like 6-10 seconds of cranking.
This morning I was beginning to wonder if it would even start.
A few of the details that I have ruled out... The batteries are new. I replaced both batteries about 6 months ago. No issues there. The fuel is summer fuel that I purchased back in August. The truck sat for two months until I decided to get the camper off of it and start driving it every day again. When I filled up back in August, I put fuel treatment in at that time. I still have half a tank (obviously I don't drive long distances regularly). I've given things under the hood a once over and I don't notice anything obvious to me.
Other than the long crank time once it starts up it appears to function normally.
Any suggestions or ideas on what is causing my troubles are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
The past three weeks, the time that I have to crank the engine to get it to start has become appreciably longer. It used to start after two seconds now it's more like 6-10 seconds of cranking.
This morning I was beginning to wonder if it would even start.
A few of the details that I have ruled out... The batteries are new. I replaced both batteries about 6 months ago. No issues there. The fuel is summer fuel that I purchased back in August. The truck sat for two months until I decided to get the camper off of it and start driving it every day again. When I filled up back in August, I put fuel treatment in at that time. I still have half a tank (obviously I don't drive long distances regularly). I've given things under the hood a once over and I don't notice anything obvious to me.
Other than the long crank time once it starts up it appears to function normally.
Any suggestions or ideas on what is causing my troubles are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
#3
Do you have to plug it in to start, or just for safety on your part. If you have working glow plugs it should start no trouble above zero. I just had a relay that appeared to be working but wasn't, now it starts fine. Also in really cold weather any more then one bad glow plug can cause problems.
Chet
Chet
#4
I plug the truck in because my commute is so short it would never warm up... Needless to say it's hard driving with only a 2" hole through the condensation to see out of.
#5
Pull your positive and negative leads on your batteries and clean the leads even though you have new batteries. Get under the truck and pull both of the negative cables ONE at the time and clean them and tighten them back into place. Take the cables off of your starter and clean them. Does this help?
Starter solenoid is on the passenger fender well wall. Have an assistant sit in the truck and turn the key to ON and wait for the wait to start light to go out and add 20 seconds to that to allow glow plugs to get good and hot. Now take a screwdriver and short across the two large leads(Preferrably on the nuts on those leads and not the threads for the studs) on the brown relay on the passenger side fender well wall and this will turn over(CRANK) the engine. Does this still take longer to start?
You can do the above method without waiting longer to rule out the starter solenoid first and then do it by waiting the 20 seconds longer for the glow plugs to get hotter. Either way....one method test the starter solenoid/relay and the other method test to see if you need to wait longer for glow plugs to heat longer.
If it is a manual shift then ensure truck is in neutral and that the assistant has the clutch pedal pushed in for safety.
Let us know the results.
You can remove the starter and take it to one of the Big Box Auto parts stores and have them test it about 5 to 10 times to verify proper operation. Last year I pulled mine after I replaced the positive battery cable (because it was hammered/broken) and it tested good 3 of 5 trys. I replaced starter and it turned over quickly and not an issue since then.
I know you only have 98K but have you considered doing the 50 cent mod to verify that the Under Valve Cover Harness is fully connected and that there is no chaffing on the harness and that ALL injectors and glow plugs are securely fastened????
Dwayne
Starter solenoid is on the passenger fender well wall. Have an assistant sit in the truck and turn the key to ON and wait for the wait to start light to go out and add 20 seconds to that to allow glow plugs to get good and hot. Now take a screwdriver and short across the two large leads(Preferrably on the nuts on those leads and not the threads for the studs) on the brown relay on the passenger side fender well wall and this will turn over(CRANK) the engine. Does this still take longer to start?
You can do the above method without waiting longer to rule out the starter solenoid first and then do it by waiting the 20 seconds longer for the glow plugs to get hotter. Either way....one method test the starter solenoid/relay and the other method test to see if you need to wait longer for glow plugs to heat longer.
If it is a manual shift then ensure truck is in neutral and that the assistant has the clutch pedal pushed in for safety.
Let us know the results.
You can remove the starter and take it to one of the Big Box Auto parts stores and have them test it about 5 to 10 times to verify proper operation. Last year I pulled mine after I replaced the positive battery cable (because it was hammered/broken) and it tested good 3 of 5 trys. I replaced starter and it turned over quickly and not an issue since then.
I know you only have 98K but have you considered doing the 50 cent mod to verify that the Under Valve Cover Harness is fully connected and that there is no chaffing on the harness and that ALL injectors and glow plugs are securely fastened????
Dwayne
#6
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