Tugly I could see your setup being above the limits of the AIS. I know I am close to its limit with my setup.

 

You went with stage 1.5s? I've seen too many sticks replaced lately and I can't keep it all straight.

 

Really? Maybe Robin will see this thread and post his thoughts. He is using the AIS with his 38R and larger injectors without any issue that I am aware of. I think his dyno numbers were around 488 hp at RRE one year. We played around with his truck a bit this past summer and the AIS seemed to be working fine.

 

Well that's good to hear. I have stock sticks now and I will be going with the 160/100's I wasn't sure the AIS would be enough.

 

Annnnnnnnnnnd..
Subscribed.

 

I need to figure this out quick. I've been prepping for a big trip since April and the trip starts on the 16th. I'll need shipping time factored in, but Clay is pretty close to here. It would be nice if I just needed a better filter minder... that Buck$Zooka clip needs some fillin'.

 

Apparently the stock filter minder is less sensitive than the AIS offering.

Yes, Robin will say he made 488HP with AIS and CCV open to atmosphere - so that 'proves' there is enough air for that power.

I got up to 50k out of AIS with stock sticks in a variety of climates from the Washington Peninsula to Florida and Texas to Massachusetts - with stock injectors/turbo. I also see that mileage from 6637 using 175/146 ('stock' nozzles) injectors and AC codes (160/146's). At $25/filter and arguably 'adequate' filtration, I prefer this to the ~$60 AIS element - ESPECIALLY if requires changing at 20k miles!!

Videos of 38R/6637 uploading now! (at ~650kb/sec upload speed, its a wearisome process...)

Also took vids of switching tunes today!

 

Either I type slow or it loaded faster than I thought!! This is in 100HP tune and I think you can see +30psi in one of the shots. Windows are up and truck is warm.

If ya listen close, there is a little turbo stall at about 29/30sec mark after standing on it, then letting up for the truck slowing/turning in front of me...

Click image for video:

 

Wow, something I can finally give you information on, I have the AFE stage II xp, no problems with air volume, you can hear the motor breathing, I have a stock work truck model with not a lot of noise abatement insulation, the heat shield really works, I can open the hood and feel the filter temp and the intake tube on the other side, and it is noticeably cooler, it seals to the underside of the hood, I did the zoodad mod, and you can't see it in the pictures on the dp website, but the filter end has an inverted cone filter, that winds about 2" from the fender hole, allowing air to be sucked more easily from there, tons of flow, It is pricey but I feel worth it, Buy an extra filter, for when you need to change it, wash the the used one, oil it, and have it ready for the next change, set for life , the reason for having two is you have to let it dry out when you wash it, then oil it lightly, and allow what some say 12 hours for the oil to soak in, and distribute evenly throughout the media, we use the oil type filters on our racing karts, I don't have, or think they do any good, the pre filter cover, they do stop large debris, but when you look at it, it looks deceivingly clean, very deceiving but lift it up and look at the filter itself, it is dirty, and ready to be cleaned, I notice very little difference with or without it, does not justify the cost, and I can see the cleanliness of the filter at a glance, proven at the race track, and in my truck.
Phil

 

You've heard my turbo with the window open in the vid... does it snuff the turbo noise effectively like the AIS does? It is rumored nothing is as effective as the AIS for decibel drowning. How many miles do you get out of each cleaning? Special oil?

Justify the cost? Dooood... my Buck$Zooka raised a mushroom cloud on 8 sticks/glow plugs, a 38R tubro, billet plenums, boots & clamps, IPR, and a fuel pump to make Stinky sufficienltly suck 'sphere! How bad can it get?

 

Actually, I have only had the stock air filter, and the AFE stage II xp, I can hear the air going through the intake over the stock turbo, filter life depends on conditions, with the zoodad mod, any dust I go through gets sucked straight through to the filter, I haul the 24' kart trailer to the track weekly, after the race, the dirt, with a little gravel, entrance road gets quite dusty so I have to change it monthly, but normal highway use don't know? My comment on not worth the money was aimed at the filter cover, not needed, actually keeps you from seeing the true cleanliness of the filter, if you go to dp site, and click on the different pictures, and hover your mouse over the pictures to enlarge them you can see the inverted cone on the end, the filter is as big as the battery, it has a ton of filter surface area, even if I let it get a little to dirty, when I take off the filter, the intake is always factory squeaky clean on the inside, Just to make it clear the stage II xp is IMHO well worth every penny, and the pre filter does nothing but keep you from seeing how clean your filter really is, the holes in the mesh cover are bigger than dust, allowing dust to get sucked through the cover, but caught by the filter, thus hiding the dirt from view, I ran the pre filter at 1st, and quickly wore out the stretchy band that cinches it to the filter, by pulling it on and off checking the cleanliness of the filter, major pitb, so I did a pre filter delete mod, (pfd) we change out the filter on the kart engine with filters that have been cleaned, and oiled (during the week) on the kart engine 5 times a night, with a pre filter there is no improvement, for piece of mind, get one and try it, but I believe you will toss it.
Phil

 

They do have a filter recharge kit, (cleaner, and oil) I use that, just so there will be no issues with filter life, but you should get as many miles with the AFE sII xp as you do now with the filter you have, my filter duty cycle is in the extreme dusty category. sorry if I confused you or others, my 1st attempt to offer information.
Phil

 

Your doing great! My first fix was the ESOF system and that was my shining moment to contribute... until I started adding stuff.

Not many people want to acquire knowledge the way I did... rolling back miles/years on the truck with a Buck$Zooka. I'm not even sure I would have taken this on had I known this would happen when I bought it. My rationalization after the fact? If I were to buy a truck for $30K (purchase plus add-ons/upgrades/mods) that could haul heavy in the mountains and be this capable/reliable, what would I buy?

 

I know exactly what I would do. First of all, I dunno what else you can buy for $30k? My old truck has 360k miles on it, the last 260k with my butt in the driver's seat. With a total investment over that time that is still less than the 'brand new 6.0' they had on the lot when I bought my truck - I KNOW I'm ahead of the game. For $60k, you can have a nice 6.7, but if you think you'll still be driving your emissions-choked, overly complicated, poor MPG 6.7 in 300k or 400k miles - surely you haven't been paying attention. While the creature comforts of the modern trucks are superior to our aging rigs, they are simply hoping to get them through the warranty/payment period. I have seen dozens of 6.4's come and go with the contractors I work with. Most hated them because they spent as much time in the shop as they did on the road. Many have switched to gassers, since the MPG is comparable AND fuel/maintenance is cheaper.

Of course, my junk have been running on WVO for 170k and 100k respectively - so I'm waaaaay ahead of the game economically. In fact, the fuel savings exclusively paid for the X. I literally financed it and made all the payments using the $$$ I had been spending on gas in ex-wifey's mini-van. (then I kept it when she decided to 'set me free'! )