When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First off, I'm running a 99 F-350 7.3L CC LB. I haven't really done much in the way of mods, it has a chip (TS I believe, it was in it when I got it) 50 cent mod and a custom cold air intake. I had to leave for the weekend and I left the truck at home. I didn't plug it in because it was supposed to be somewhat warm all weekend. I got home early evening and when I went to start it everything looked normal and seemed normal but it wouldn't start. I had the wait to start light as always until after about the third try. The light stopped coming on and the truck will turn over but it doesn't even try to catch and start. It just keeps turning over. I'm not sure if it's related or not but the OD off light on the shifter is on and won't go off. I didn't have a lot of time to trouble shoot this morning, all I did was disconnect the batteries for a little bit and try again. It had been plugged in all night as well so I know it wasn't cold. This is about the worst timing, I still have things to get fixed before the snow gets here. Can anyone help me out with this one?
Someone with more knowledge will hopefully come along, but if the WTS light isn't coming on I believe your fuel bowl heater may have shorted out.
I also believe your tach wont move while cranking if this is true. Try unplugging your fuel bowl heater (back of the bowl) and check the fuses.
Check the #30 fuse. If it is blown then unplug the fuel bowl heater, replace the fuse and try again.
Also make sure that your batteries have a MINIMUM of 10.8 volts or... it will crank but not start. This is 10.8 with the key in the ON position and the glow plugs getting power.
Thanks guys, looks like a good starting point and I am hoping for a quick easy fix so I can move on to some other things that need to be done. I will report back just in case anyone else wants to know.
If the #30 fuse is blown definitely check the engine harness for rubbing over the DS VC and also at the DS shock mount. That one got me a couple years ago, but I wasn't lucky enough to be parked at home.
If it is that, it'll blow as soon as the key is turned to the on position, but it'll still crank all day.
Once again you guys were right on the money, there was a 30 amp fuse blown. I disconnected the fuel bowl heater and replaced the fuse and she fired right up. Thanks again for bailing me out of something that would have probably taken me all day to figure out. This leads me to another question, or two. What would be causing the fuel bowl heater to short and blow this fuse? What kind of negative effects can I look forward to if I leave the heater unplugged?
A lot of people here just un plug them. Mine did the same and i un plugged mine a long time ago. We don't get cold weather here so it's not a problem for us.
Clay at ruffraff sells them if your in the snow belt.
When I rebuilt my fuel bowl I eliminated the bowl heater. From what I've read its pretty useless in the first place, but others may argue that.
The only side effect is your " water in fuel " light won't work. I just make sure to drain the.bowl for a few seconds each month ( if I remember)
Tape over the plug to keep it from shorting, and you'll be good to go.
Glad it was a simple fix
When I rebuilt my fuel bowl I eliminated the bowl heater. From what I've read its pretty useless in the first place, but others may argue that.
The only side effect is your " water in fuel " light won't work. I just make sure to drain the.bowl for a few seconds each month ( if I remember)
Tape over the plug to keep it from shorting, and you'll be good to go.
Glad it was a simple fix
By eliminate the heater, you mean you removed the element correct?
If so, you can plug it back in, and have the WIF indication still.
Big al I'm looking for a big bad woof? Or something similar but up to date any thoughts. Was told my truck had a bigger turbo than it really does have and want to upgrade any thoughts
By eliminate the heater, you mean you removed the element correct?
If so, you can plug it back in, and have the WIF indication still.
You are correct. I removed the element, and after just checking, I did plug it back in...
I rebuilt three fuel bowls, I guess the one I left unplugged wasn't mine.
Big al I'm looking for a big bad woof? Or something similar but up to date any thoughts. Was told my truck had a bigger turbo than it really does have and want to upgrade any thoughts
First off, what does this have to do with fuel bowl heaters/or PCM power and the OP's post.
Secondly, Why? What are your goals, and why not start a thread for many peoples opinions rather than calling myself or anyone else out specifically?
Not trying to be rude, but I'm no expert on the subject except in theory really, not having run a ton of options/setups like others have.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.