Winter work and upgrades
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
E1TA LA is a Dana 3.00:1 ratio non-limited slip.
The 60394... stuff is the Dana part number.
What's the AXLE code on your door jamb sticker?
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
According to the book:
In 1984/5, that equated to 3.54:1 ratio 6,300 lb. capacity Dana (Spicer) 70U non-locking axle.
From 1988 until the end of the series (or 1989, as that's as far as this book goes) that equated to a 5.13:1 11,000 lb. capacity Dana non-locking axle.
Might look at the following PDF document:
FRONT AND REAR LIGHT AXLE PARTS, KITS AND APPLICATIONS - Dana Corporation
It says the 603946 series were semi-floating Dana 61s used on 1980-81 F-250s 4x2, and that 603946-4 is an open 3.00:1 rear end.
Attached is what the book shows for identifying rear axles in general, and the specifics for a 73:
In 1984/5, that equated to 3.54:1 ratio 6,300 lb. capacity Dana (Spicer) 70U non-locking axle.
From 1988 until the end of the series (or 1989, as that's as far as this book goes) that equated to a 5.13:1 11,000 lb. capacity Dana non-locking axle.
Might look at the following PDF document:
FRONT AND REAR LIGHT AXLE PARTS, KITS AND APPLICATIONS - Dana Corporation
It says the 603946 series were semi-floating Dana 61s used on 1980-81 F-250s 4x2, and that 603946-4 is an open 3.00:1 rear end.
Attached is what the book shows for identifying rear axles in general, and the specifics for a 73:
Last edited by ctubutis; Nov 14, 2012 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Found Dana model number (70U)
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
I would suppose so. I didn't get a lot of details from the PO as to what was done to the truck mechanically speaking. If the tag is correct, and I'll verify that soon, then the axle must have been swapped at some point for the Dana 61.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
Jack up the rear end and spin the wheels and drive shaft and see what ratio you get.
A set of El Dorado MTZ Sport tires would give your truck very nice grip during the winter months. Beware though, they're LOUD.
A set of El Dorado MTZ Sport tires would give your truck very nice grip during the winter months. Beware though, they're LOUD.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
That's what I intend to do to get the correct ratio. If it is a 3.00 then I'll have to rethink the speedometer driven and drive gears to get the correct reading.
I had Firestone Transforce HTs on it and they're pretty noisy. The truck is going to be parked most of the winter while I work on it so driving in the snow isn't too much of a concern for me.
I had Firestone Transforce HTs on it and they're pretty noisy. The truck is going to be parked most of the winter while I work on it so driving in the snow isn't too much of a concern for me.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
It's been a while so I thought I'd give an update.
I got all 4 wheels repainted and will have new tires put on shortly.
I got the oil pan off, cleaned, a new gasket put on and reinstalled the oil pan.
While the front tires were off I was looking at the rotor/hubs and realized I had 2 cracks on the left one. So, I ordered 2 new ones from Rock Auto.
I got the left one on with no problems. It turns freely and looks good too.
I bet you know where this is going... I got the right rotor/hub greased up, the bearings repacked and ready to install. When I put it on it seems to want to bind when I get the castle nut to the point where I can put the cotter pin through the spindle. It doesn't want to turn without a lot of strain and the assistance of a big wrench.
I don't think it's an issue with the bearings as they look fine. I think it has to do with the ring on the dust cover. The one that goes around the back side of the hub to protect the bearings and spindle.
Any thoughts on this problem?
Thanks.
Edit: Pics coming soon
I got all 4 wheels repainted and will have new tires put on shortly.
I got the oil pan off, cleaned, a new gasket put on and reinstalled the oil pan.
While the front tires were off I was looking at the rotor/hubs and realized I had 2 cracks on the left one. So, I ordered 2 new ones from Rock Auto.
I got the left one on with no problems. It turns freely and looks good too.
I bet you know where this is going... I got the right rotor/hub greased up, the bearings repacked and ready to install. When I put it on it seems to want to bind when I get the castle nut to the point where I can put the cotter pin through the spindle. It doesn't want to turn without a lot of strain and the assistance of a big wrench.
I don't think it's an issue with the bearings as they look fine. I think it has to do with the ring on the dust cover. The one that goes around the back side of the hub to protect the bearings and spindle.
Any thoughts on this problem?
Thanks.
Edit: Pics coming soon
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Have you checked to see that the bearing is installed fully and squarely in the hub? And, have you spun the hub quite a bit to seat the bearings? To do the latter you may need to mount the wheel & tire.
Also, to what torque are you tightening the nut? I'll have to check after church, but it seems to me that some instructions have you tighten to a specific value and then back it off one notch.
Also, to what torque are you tightening the nut? I'll have to check after church, but it seems to me that some instructions have you tighten to a specific value and then back it off one notch.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
As far as I know about the spindle nut it only has to be turned on far enough to get it past the hole for the cotter pin to fit through. The inside bearing is held on by a capture that is pressed/tapped into the rear of the hub and the front one is being pushed in as far as it will go. It turns fine until I get the nut turned on far enough for the cotter pin to go through the hole.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Maybe I'm not talking about what you are talking about, but the 81 factory manual says that for non-4wd trucks you should tighten the nut to 22 - 25 ft lbs and then back it off 1/8 turn. Install the locknut and cotter pin w/o moving the spindle nut.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
There is no locknut on the spindle. I don't think I've ever seen a locknut on a spindle. Not to say that you or the book is wrong but I think it may be that it was changed on the '85 fords? Or it's different on the 1 ton trucks.