Block Heater question
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Canada
Block Heater question
2002 Ranger Edge 4.0 L 2WD.
My Canadian Ranger came with a block heater, and I use it in the colder temps as a pre-warm to eliminate cold starts. I went to use it for the first time this Fall, and when I plugged it into my extension cord, the male end of the block heater cord started to smoke and popped the breaker on the GFCI outlet.
The extension cord was old, so I bought a nice new outdoor/winter one, and upon trying it again, it doesn't smoke but still pops the breaker.
Would the problem likely be with the block heater cord, or the heater element itself?
And by the way, is it a real bear to replace the element?
My Canadian Ranger came with a block heater, and I use it in the colder temps as a pre-warm to eliminate cold starts. I went to use it for the first time this Fall, and when I plugged it into my extension cord, the male end of the block heater cord started to smoke and popped the breaker on the GFCI outlet.
The extension cord was old, so I bought a nice new outdoor/winter one, and upon trying it again, it doesn't smoke but still pops the breaker.
Would the problem likely be with the block heater cord, or the heater element itself?
And by the way, is it a real bear to replace the element?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,940
Likes: 8
From: Southern Oregon Coast
If it's like mine, the heater is in a freeze plug hole on the passenger's side - you can see it plain as day if you take the wheel off on that side. Sounds like it might have shorted...
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,940
Likes: 8
From: Southern Oregon Coast
I would start with the cord and check it for any kind of physical damage. If the cord looks okay, then you might be looking at replacing the heater (which requires draining the coolant.)
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
I have an easy check if you have a DMM.
Take the meter and set on Ohms to the high range
(Mega Ohms) then one probe on the cord you can pick
what side just not the ground and the other to the clean
place on the block. It should not give any reading like it's
an open circuit.Next step if it does not read as an open
is remove the cord from the heater and check the heater
the same way. If you happen to get a reading then you have a heater
that is leaking power to ground that is why the GFIC is tripping and the
element is bad and will need to be replaced. If it shows open then you
want to switch to a low range and check both heater terminals now you
should see about 8~15 Ohms if you see open you have a bad heater.
Do the same with the cord while it is not hooked to the element. You
will have to check each terminal to ground and should see open. Then
check while it is still unhooked both terminal and you should see open.
If you need help on this just send me a PM and I can help with that.
But most likely what you have is a bad element that is leaking power to
ground and that can kill someone if they happen to put a hand on the truck
and for some reason the GFCI did not trip. It would ground through there body
and that is really bad.
Sean
Take the meter and set on Ohms to the high range
(Mega Ohms) then one probe on the cord you can pick
what side just not the ground and the other to the clean
place on the block. It should not give any reading like it's
an open circuit.Next step if it does not read as an open
is remove the cord from the heater and check the heater
the same way. If you happen to get a reading then you have a heater
that is leaking power to ground that is why the GFIC is tripping and the
element is bad and will need to be replaced. If it shows open then you
want to switch to a low range and check both heater terminals now you
should see about 8~15 Ohms if you see open you have a bad heater.
Do the same with the cord while it is not hooked to the element. You
will have to check each terminal to ground and should see open. Then
check while it is still unhooked both terminal and you should see open.
If you need help on this just send me a PM and I can help with that.
But most likely what you have is a bad element that is leaking power to
ground and that can kill someone if they happen to put a hand on the truck
and for some reason the GFCI did not trip. It would ground through there body
and that is really bad.
Sean
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 62
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From: Canada
Thanks Yahiko. After learning that the criminals at Ford wanted $100.00 just for the cord, I went and bought a new aftermarket kit (element and cord) for $35.00
Hopefully the Re & Re won't be too difficult.
Thanks for the replies.
Hopefully the Re & Re won't be too difficult.
Thanks for the replies.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
From: MT
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Good tip; I'll inspect the cord first, and if it does look chewed or frayed, and the female end of the new aftermarket cord will work on the original Ford element, I'll try just the cord.
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