..Like others have mentioned, its not an easy task for someone without an electronics background. I have installed the Code 6551 in mine about 2 yrs ago and it took a while, and I love it! I used the pats bypass with the transponder ring that goes around the keyswitch. Just like with anything electronic, its only as good as the installer!

 

Glad to hear so many letting me know how hard it is. Got this kit partly due to the fact they give tech support and supply their own instructions designed for the specific vehicle. But besides that I am pretty handy around wiring of expensive machinery (work as a cnc machine service tech and training engineer).

I will try to remember to take some pics that way I can create a DIY help to post back. Hopefully it will help others who have had the same trouble getting the correct info. The hardest part of this job seems to be getting the information, probably due to many people making a good living at doing things like this. The instructions from the companes who make these devices only supply vaque instructions to cover many vehicles. Each vehicle has different wiring and requires specific information on the color and location as well as the requirements to teach a bypass if needed and many other things. The least I can do is make this easer for other Ford owners out there.

 

In the middle of installation. Not very difficult with instructions but loads of wires and finding where their located is the slowest part (and taking the dozens of screws out of the dash componites).

No garage and very cold out (short winter days don't help). Took time while the dash was apart to repair the pesky digital odometer going blank on really hot days. That took a couple hours out of my day. Also taking to time to do a little detailing on all the dash parts while their off.

Too cold to stay out long and work on the wiring so I had to keep coming in to warm up. Anyhow I was missing part of the instructions dealing with the bypass module so I am attempting to find them online. The bypass and the hookup to the door switch is all I lack. Taking several pics to post but it may take some getting them all together with instructions.

Hopefully can complete tommorow.

 

So almost done but had a couple snags. First I definitely need a anti-grind relay that was not included in the kit. Around $12 with shipping for an 8618 prewired relay on ebay. Went ahead and closed it up without it. Easy to get to now that I have had the front panel off once.

Thanks again for the heads up on the difficulty doing the job so I was prepaired for the worst. Most of the install was easy but had a mixup in the instructions for location of a wire so I had to track it down (way up in the dash and a pain to find the right one).

First off don't do this in the cold...not fun. Secondly make sure you have plenty of wire taps, or solder, or crimps, and zip ties. Third, do not use taps on the RX/TX wires (had problem programming the bypass and spent a couple hours to find out one tap was not connecting). Other than the relay all I need to do is program the remote start to use 3 pulses from my OEM FOB.

If you get the same kit as I posted all it includes is 2 items (I am emailing them about the relay). It has the bypass and remote start but they have pretty good instructions and includes most wiring specs required. I have pics of most everything and can clarify any of the steps. With wire connectors, kit and relay the total cost to install is around $140. Hrs required for first time opening dash to close was around 9 hrs including problems. Extra time I took fixing the odometer and doing detailing around 4 hrs. Still going to add relay though so that should have added 30min while it was open.

 

Tim, Glad to hear your moving along! Stay away from wire taps at all cost! They will bite you in the *** in the end!

 

Solder and tape off your connections.

 

Yes the taps bit me costing more time than it saved. I would not use them again (stopped using them after the issue with the bypass). I will not use them when installing the anti-grind relay. Anyone who reads this please do not use them!

The system works correctly but I intend to add the relay and when summer hits make a few mods. The whole system is simple as the instructions sent made the connections easier to find. Now that I have the required connections I wish to setup to turn on certain lights and set the fan to high using relay connections. When the system is halted or the key is turned on then it would go back to default. It will be easy to do but I also want to find a better location to mount things as well as trimming off the extra wires I do not need. (just tidy things up as I hate bundles of wire)

I did not wish to waste the time during the cold and my very short holiday to do the small things.

BTW: The remote starter works like a charm. I would recommend it for others. It does not have a two way feed so like factory systems it doesn't give feedback. Other more expensive systems will do much more but I did not need that. Just start from inside house before getting reading for work at 5 AM.

 

The vender on ebay is sending me a relay for the kit so they are doing me right.

Found another one of those pesky taps not getting good connection and had to strip it out. Why did I follow the instructions? I have never used those pieces of trash on any equipment so I should have known better.

Also there were 2 wires not correct (based on the ford wiring specs) both the parking lights and the heater. The ACC wire is not the same on this model as the heater (grey instead of black/lt gr). The parking light wire at the light switch is brown not brown/yw. I will get a full list of wire colors and locations together.

Other than that I am having another issue with this system using the locks as the means to activate. Three hits on the factory FOB lock turns the autostart on. This works perfectly accept on an occasion after exiting the truck and pressing the lock only once the truck then autostarts! Got an email off to the tech support for that one. I am not sure how it happens so I can not be sure how to fix it yet. Any ideals?

 

Alright I guess this is more my fault than not. All the sheets say my truck had a type B keyless entry (negative pulse to lock). After checking more myself instead of listening to the people reading the ford tech sheets I found I have a type C (normal negative that drops out to a pulse of positive). I had to install a $4 relay and that was all there was to it. Now it works perfectly.

I should have checked this first instead of relying on the ford wiring diagram sheets (all of them) where 2 wires were the wrong color and one was in the wrong location. I think due to my trim package or something or maybe being built near the end of the 2003 release who knows but it is different than most others.

 

When I installed my remote start with alarm system I had 2 problems also. First my pwr locks worked reverse which you can imagine conflicted with the alarm system. As you mentioned the wiring circuit colors were backwards on the diagram. The other problem was the pats bypass module I bought was supposed to be plug and play yet it wouldn't recognize the pats system until I used the 2nd install option which meant cutting wires and hard wiring it in. I also like you installed a starter interrupt relay after I tried starting the truck once with it already running.

 

Spent all last night trying to stop a hacker from Turkey from stealing my online identity. He hacked my system and loaded a password stealer then accessed my email along with paypal and others he had tried at the time. Thankfully gmail caught him when he tried to change my password and warned me.

On the bright side I had time to work on installing the anti-grind relay and cleaning up the wiring bundles while my systems were being scanned. The anti-grind works great and everything is a little more cleaned up under the dash. So I should be able to start posting some wiring specs and pics. Using the same parts I purchased in the kit this should be a simple install with the info. However it would all be determined on the cab and package your truck has. Different trim packages and larger cabs have slightly different wiring.

 

Do not use wire taps on small wires as they do not make good connections
I recommend to at least use crimp connectors but prefered is solder connections.
These wiring specs are for the following devices to be used with existing OEM keless entry and alarm systems.
OmegaLink transponder bypass (OL-IB-FMTL)
CoolStart addon remote start (RS00-G4)
OEM Keyless entry type B the Pink/Black wire has no contact until the FOB lock is pressed then the negative is pulsed.
Type C the Pink/Black wire has constant negative and when the FOB lock is pressed the negative is disrupted and a positive pulse is engaged.
Type C modules require a relay in order to send the negative pulse to the remote start. See the instructions below for the relay.
The list is layed out as follows:
Addon module wire color> description > vehicle wire color >vehicle location
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CoolStart addon remote start (RS00-G4)
Red (6 pin harness)> Constant 12V+ > Yellow/Green Violet >Ignition Switch Harness
Pink (6 pin harness)> Ignition 12v+ > Dark Blue/L Green >Ignition Switch Harness
Brown (6 pin harness)> Starter > Red/L Blue >Ignition Switch Harness (if using anti-grind relay connect to starter side when cutting ignition wire)
Grey (6 pin harness)> Accessory Gray/Yellow > Ignition Switch Harness
Black(12 pin harness)> Ground > Solid Metal at Driver Kick Panel
Yellow/Black (12 pin harness)> Connect to Bypass ('Ground when running'>model OL-IB-FMTL Blue/White)(also see installing anti-grind relay if needed)
Red/Black (12 pin harness)> 12v+ > Red > Ignition Switch or 6 pin harness (for type B and type C Ford factory kelless modules)
White (12 pin harness)> Parking lamp > Brown+ > Headlight Switch
Purple (12 pin harness)> Brake Switch > L Green+ > Brake Switch on brake pedal
Grey (12 pin harness)> Hood Input Switch (provided with remote start)
(when using factory keyless entry with alarm)
Orange/Black (12 pin harness)> OEM Alarm Disarm > Green/Violet- > At Keyless Module

Green (3 pin harness with red plug)> Activation Wire > (Pink/Black) > OEM Keyless entry module >Do last>>:Connected to relay from keyless module for type C (see relay connection below) or direct to keyless module for type B (Pink/Black)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Relay for activation when type C keyless entry module (4 prong normally open or 5 prong using (87 not 87a)):
Pink/Black wire from OEM Keyless entry module to relay (85)
Ground to relay (86) and (30)
Green (3 pin harness with red plug on remote start) to relay (87)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OmegaLink transponder bypass (OL-IB-FMTL)
Only use the 3-wire with black connector and the 8-wire with white connector discard the rest.
Red (3 pin black connector)> Constant 12v+ > Red > Ignition Switch or 6 pin harness Red on Remote module
Black (3 pin black connector)> Ground > Solid Metal at Driver Kick Panel
Blue/White (3 pin black connector)> Connect to Remote Start (Coolstart Model RS00-04 Yellow/Black)
Green/Red (8 pin black connector)> Keyless entry RX > Grey/Orange > Harness (pin 3) from keyless module to ring on ignition (few inches to right side of steering column near center console)
Gray/Red (8 pin black connector)> Keyless entry TX > White/L Green > Harness (pin 4) from keyless module to ring on ignition (few inches to right side of steering column near center console)
Pink (8 pin black connector)> Constant 12v+ > Red > Ignition Switch or 6 pin harness Red on Remote module
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Relay for anti-grind (8618 or RL3040 or similar) also 2 rectifier diodes (I used 1N5401 but there are several like the 1N4001 thru 1N4004)
Cut the Red/L Blue >Ignition Switch Harness leaving the Coolstart brown wire on the starter side of the cut)
Relay (87a) > Red/L Blue >Ignition Switch Harness
Relay (30) > Red/L Blue >starter and brown wire from coolstart addon
Yellow/Black (12 pin harness)> connect 2 diodes (cathode side-visually the side with the stripe on it)
Bypass Blue/White ('Ground when running'>model OL-IB-FMTL ) > first diode (anode side -visually the side opposite the stripe)
Relay (85) > second diode (anode side -visually the side opposite the stripe)
Relay (86) > Constant 12V+ > Yellow/Green Violet >Ignition Switch Harness or coolstart Red (6 pin harness)

After installing the coolstart needs programmed to use 3 door lock pulses instead of the default 1 pulse.

See pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...art-33155.html

 

Print the wiring specs from the previous post to aid your install.
1) Remove Dash trim above steering Column (snaps loose straight towards driver bottom then top)

2) Remove fuse cover
3) Remove screws for hood and brake release levers.

4) Remove driver side kick panel (pull door trim out from lip and raise front end of door tread then pull straight back to snap out)

5) Remove lower dash panel
5A) 2 screws at left bottom below release levers
5B) Screw at top left of panel and 1 inside fuse area

5C) Screw at top right of panel

5D) Screw at bottom right of panel

5E) Pop off by pulling bottom out and then top

6) Pop out light Switch by prying at bottom with soft tool in small notch then pull straight out

Next determine the place you wish to mount the remote start. I decided to mount under the steering shaft on the factory bars using wire ties so as not to have to cut anything or removing more panels. Do this now so you can determine how long the wires need to be if you want to trim them. They do not recommend that you extend the wires.

7) Remove tape around ignition wire harness and start the connection listed in the CoolStart (6 pin connector and 12 pin connector) to the ignition harness. See the section on anti-grind relay if needed before connecting the yellow/black wire to the bypass. If no relay will be used then do the connection.


8) Connect the ground wire to a solid metal area of the truck. I chose to run the wire above the fuse box to the driver kick panel.


9) Connect the white (12 pin harness) to the lamp switch harness.
(see light switch removal picture above)

10) Connect the Purple (12 pin harness) to the brake switch harness.


11) Run the Hood switch wire through the firewall either by drilling a new hole or like I did by pushing it through the existing rubber gromet using a fishing tape or hard wire.

11a) Pull fuse box in engine compartment to the side by releasing the two clips and pulling up.


11b) Push wire though firewall.


11c) Mount switch so when hood is closed it depresses the switch but releases when hood latch is pulled. I used an existing hole next to the lift arm. See picture from 11a.

12) Connect Orange/Black (12 pin harness) to OEM Alarm Disarm Locate near the keyless module (mounted on firewall behind the fuse panel)


13) Connect the OmegaLink bypass Red (3 pin black connector) to the same constant 12v as the remote start or to the remote start constant 12v.

14) Connect the Black (3 pin black connector) to the same ground location as the remote start. See step 8.

15) Connect the Blue/White (3 pin black connector) to the remote start (Coolstart Model RS00-04 Yellow/Black). If adding an anti-grind relay do not connect directly but see the section below for relay connection.

16) Connect the Green/Red and the Gray/red (8 pin black connector) to the RX > grey/orange and TX > white/Lgreen (respectively) factory alarm transponder pickup going to the ignition switch. Located to the right of the sterring column.


17) Connect the Pink (8 pin black connector) to the same constant 12v coming from the ignition switch as the CoolStart remote start.



If your truck needs an anti-grind relay then follow the remianing instructions. Mine would not actually kick the starter fully in but would pulse engage the starter just long enough to hit the flywheel. I did not like that at all so I installed the relay which prevents grinding even better than the factory system.

18) Connecting an anti-grind relay (8618 or RL3040 or similar)

18a) Cut the Red/L Blue >Ignition Switch Harness leaving the Coolstart brown wire on the starter side of the cut. Cut as far from the ignition as required so the ignition wire will reach where the relay is to be mounted. As this picture shows I mounted mine directly to the housing around the fuse block and computer.


18b) Splice a jumper wire on the starter side of the wiring to both the starter wire (Red/L Blue) and the Coolstart Brown (6 pin harness) and connect to pin 30 on the relay

18c) Connect two diodes to (1N5401 or 1N4001 thru 1N4004) to the Yellow/Black (12 pin harness) from the CoolStart module. Make sure the ring around the diode is towards this connection.



18d) Connect one diode to the Bypass Blue/White ('Ground when running'>model OL-IB-FMTL )

18e) Connect the second diode to the Relay pin 85

18f) Connect the Red/L Blue from Ignition Switch Harness to the Relay pin 87a

18g) Connect the constant 12v (Yellow/Green Violet >Ignition Switch Harness or coolstart Red (6 pin harness)) to Relay pin 86


You should test your remote start at this point. The green wire was not connected before so you can touch it to ground in order to test the remote start function. Make sure the hood switch is triggered and touch the green activation wire to ground. After a few seconds the remote start should activate. Press the brake pedal to deactivate as the bypass has not yet been programmed and the truck will not start unless you first place a key in the ignition (does not need turned on just being there to recieve the chip signal is enough).

Determine what type of keyless entry in order to know how to connect the green activation wire from the remote start. Find the Pink/black wire from the keyless entry module and check with a multimeter to determine. Hook your meter to a constant 12v and the pink/black wire.

If there is no voltage you do not need a relay but you should see a quick pulse when activating the door lock using your FOB. After testing your remote start you can connect the green activation wire to the pink/black wire.

If there is a constant connection to ground on the wire then you may have the type C entry. This will have a normal ground connection but when the FOB lock is pressed the ground drops out and a quick plus 12v connection is made. This type requires a relay and can be connected as shown in the wiring sheet in the above post. I mounted my relay on the driver kick panel wall.

Next program the bypass per the provided instructions. It takes two keys in order to program the module I installed (keyless) but some will duplicate an existing key signal (only needs one key) while others require a chip from a programmed key but that defeats the alarm system.

Mount the CoolStart light and programming button in a convenient location or hidden away if you prefer. Program the remote start to 3 pulse so your truck does not start every time you lock your doors.



Notes:
You must cut the starter wire from the ignition switch for adding a anti-grind relay. The connection from the instructions requires the remote start be connected to the starter side of the cut. Since the wires on the ignition harness are so short I decided to use a short jumper wire and connect the relay from the jumper to the short side and left the wire from the ignition switch long enough to connect straight to the relay. I mounted the relay directly to the plastic case around the fuse box and computer nest to the ignition harness. This made for a clean setup with as few extra spices to the ignition wire as possible.

The wiring sheet in the previous post explains the connections required. The diodes are required so the relay does not trickle a current to the bypass when engaged or the other way around. These diodes are not described anywhere I found so I listed the part numbers for them so you can get them at almost any electronics store. Radio Shack should even carry at least one type of them. They must be placed in the correct direction as the purpose is to make the current flow only one direction along the circuit.

 

Just holding the next post in case I need to extend the instructions into another one.