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  #31  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:13 PM
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Alright that good actually, means you can ignore all engine sensors your problem is mechanical, fuel system, or vacuum related.
 
  #32  
Old 11-19-2012, 09:52 AM
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Sweet. The next thing is, can the injectors be checked or tested on the truck? I have 200k on them and never been touched. Other than that both fuel pumps and sending units are new. I may go buy a vacuum gauge and check engine vacuum at the manifold while it is running.
 
  #33  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Intimnasc
Sweet. The next thing is, can the injectors be checked or tested on the truck? I have 200k on them and never been touched. Other than that both fuel pumps and sending units are new. I may go buy a vacuum gauge and check engine vacuum at the manifold while it is running.
There are gasoline fuel injector service shops in most major cities which will test and rebuild injectors. There is only so much that can be checked on the vehicle (such as the injector pulse width and coil resistance), while the injector shop will also be checking the actual flow rate and spray pattern. At 200K miles, many would argue that it's time to freshen the injectors up.
 
  #34  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:15 PM
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I am thinking I may go get a set from the JY and rebuild them myself with a little Berrymans and a 6 volt battery. I'll have to see when I go to the JY next whats involved in pulling them out.
 
  #35  
Old 11-19-2012, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Intimnasc
My question is what milage are you getting? Please include tranny, motor, rear end gearing, tire size, and major fuel economy upgrades (ie six litre tune up and exhaust). The reason I ask this is I may be chasing a pipe dream with my setup and I just want to be sure.
What exactly is your setup... tranny, motor, gearing, tires?
 
  #36  
Old 11-20-2012, 07:52 AM
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I have a 94 F150 4.9 with the E4OD that was just rebuilt last year and 3.55 gears. Now living on the West side of Fort Worth most of my highway driving it between 70 and 80 mph. Speed limit past Abilene is 80 so it is not uncommon to drive at the higher speeds. Most of my driving however is in town.
 
  #37  
Old 11-20-2012, 09:10 AM
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You can get a set of NEW injectors on Ebay for not much. My dad found a complete set for a 302 for about 60 bucks. There are currently several sets for ~$100 brand new or already 'professionally' rebuilt. New from the parts house you're looking at ~$60 each x 6.
 
  #38  
Old 11-20-2012, 12:17 PM
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Oh and my tires are 31" (jus realized I left that out). I did notice one other thin wih this whole issue, my crank case vent hose keeps coming out. Today at lunch I took it all out an blew through it with no trouble. I went ahed and cleaned it with some Berrymans and put it back together I will go by O'Reillys after wor and uy a cheapvcuum gauge to see what my vacuum pressure is. I sincerely dobt the problem is pistons or valves, the truck just runs too god and uses no oil beteen oil changes at 5ooo miles.
 
  #39  
Old 11-21-2012, 07:23 AM
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Well just to let everyone know what I did. I am the kind of person that chuckles when somethign happens to someone else so on the flip side I like to let folks know when I make a mistake. I have driven this truck for 20 years and just realized that the vent by the oil fill is not the only crank vent. I found my PCV valve. It is now new with a new hose as the old hose was dry rotted. I also replace most of the lines coming from the vacuum block on the intake.
 
  #40  
Old 11-21-2012, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Intimnasc
Computer read all clear.
The EEC-IV PCM's aren't that great at trouble-shooting - it's certainly worth checking for codes, but they miss a lot of stuff.

A set of injectors should be easy enough to extract at the junkyard - it's always easier when you don't have to worry about reassembly. Considering their relative low flow-rate, I doubt you can use an alternate donor - it would need to be something rated about 10 pph at the more typically used ~40 PSI. (Stock injectors are 12 pph at 55 PSI)

Have you pulled your PCM to check for leaking capacitors?
 
  #41  
Old 11-21-2012, 10:16 AM
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I've got a very similar truck...94 F150 with the 300, 3.55LS, but I've got the M5OD.

Dominantly highway, I'll see 18-20mpg if I'm very mindful of my driving and keep it 55-65mph. If I drive mostly around town, it drops to 15mpg, again being easy on her.

Fast highway speeds and towing are going to kill your average if you include them. And if the truck sees mostly around town, how heavy footed are you? And does the tailgating include idling?
 
  #42  
Old 11-21-2012, 11:26 AM
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I am fairly heavy footed and 80-90 percent of my driving is town unless I am tailgating at my sons college in which case I pull a 4800 lb 5th wheel.
 
  #43  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Intimnasc
I am fairly heavy footed and 80-90 percent of my driving is town unless I am tailgating at my sons college in which case I pull a 4800 lb 5th wheel.
I would consider 11.5 MPG not THAT bad if you do 80-90% city driving, are often towing a trailer, and are gunning the throttle all the time. I know it's hard but try driving like an old man for a tank of gas and you will likely see a huge improvement.

I have an '89 F-250 HD Supercab Longbed with 460, ZF-5 speed, and 4.10 gears. When I first got it I was hauling *** all over the place and averaged about 8.0 MPG. After the first few weeks, I started to accelerated more leisurely, coast in neutral as much as possible, and keep it at 65 on the freeway. I saw an improvement to about 11 MPG. After bumping my timing to 12 deg, installing an MSD coil, rotor, and wires, a Flowmaster, and a good tuneup, I now average 12.5 MPG. More than a 50% increase over my original MPG.
 
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