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7.3 WILL NOT START

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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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7.3 WILL NOT START

IHAVE A 1997 7.3 W/233K. THIS MORN,34DEG ,WTS LIGHT CAME ON,THEN OFF TRIED TO START,NO GO.TURNED KEY AGAIN AND NO WTS LIGHT! REPLACED GPR AND BLOWN FUSE.STILL NO START.CPS?HELP IS NEEDED
 
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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Which fuse is blown? If it's the 30A one, try checking the injector wiring over the D/S VC and near the D/S shock mount. Abrasion there put me on the side of the road once.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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The last link in my signature might help.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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Is there a WTS light now? If you have the WTS now, then try charging your batteries. It doesn't take too many failed starting attempts to lower the battery voltage enough to not fire the injectors. Just because the starter turns over good doesn't mean there is enough voltage to fire the injectors.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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IM having similar issue with my 99 7.3 216K miles go out this morning which was maybe in the high 30's low 40s. I went to start waited for my WTS light went off turned key and she turned over but was just turning and finally the voltage dropped pretty low and I saw smoke and it smelled like burned diesel. I waited for about a minute or so and then she started right up. This is the 3rd time its done that.

Dont mean to hijack your thread.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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Wow must be a morning for 7.3 no starts, mines doing the same thing. I even checked the voltage of the batteries and they seemed alright but I'm putting a charge on them anyway. Usually turning that big motor over a couple times drains them really quick. I think its just upset with me because I put really crappy tires on it till my new ones arrive.

Your 30A fuse Im assuming this is the one thats linked to the "wait to start" I had a fuel bowl heater issue every time I turned mine on and I know its linked to that same fuse. Try unplugging the fuel bowl heater if you haven't already, you really don't need it, I live in Wisconsin and mines been unplugged for 2 years. Then replace your fuse and try.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Crewcab Turbo
...Just because the starter turns over good doesn't mean there is enough voltage to fire the injectors.
What would be the voltage level threshold where the injectors wouldn't fire?

Has this problem been solved? Lookin' to fix a no start myself.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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I believe it is 10.5 mabe, while cranking. Correct me if I'm wrong. Good well charged batteries can't handle too much cranking before the voltage drops too low.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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To the original poster:
Fuse #22 unplug the fuel bowl heater.
10.5 volts min. for injectors to fire.
Wameyer- check your gpr, use a test light or meter to make sure you have voltage on the "output" of the gpr.
Hope this all helps.

Red
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:49 PM
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Wameyer, go to auto parts store in your truck and have batteries tested.
To OP. Red97350 is dead on the money with unplugging fuel bowl heater and replacing that fuse. That fuse powers up the PCM relay coil, Injector Driver Module Relay coil and the fuel bowl heater.
 
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