No start, please help.

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Oct 27, 2012 | 06:21 PM

bubba_3711

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No start, please help.

Ok this all started with hard starting. Then it would cut out for a split second when I was driving. Then it got so bad it would completly die wile I was driving, and it wouldnt start for about 30 minutes, and after 30 minutes it would start fine. But it would only drive for about a mile before it died agian. Right before it dies it cuts our really bad. Also this all started about a day after I had my pickup on the dyno.

Things I have replaced.
-new CPS from ford "black one"
-new uvch from oreillys
-new IPR from napa
-new starter from autozone
-new batterys
-had my injectors rebuilt into stage two's by jim at rosewood diesel, came with new orings

Today I tryed unpluging the ICP and starting it off either and it started for about a half a second, tryed to start it two more times then the batterys went dead.

Oct 27, 2012 | 06:54 PM

ReBilld

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Joined: Jan 2012

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From: Southern West Virginia

IDM maybe? Do you have another one you can try, or try yours in a buddies truck?

Oct 27, 2012 | 07:00 PM

bubba_3711

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Its worth a try, im gunna have to get ahold of one of my buddys and see if he will let me.

Oct 27, 2012 | 09:26 PM

oldbird1965

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Joined: Aug 2004

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From: AZ

Could it be the FPR screen clogged?

Oct 28, 2012 | 03:15 AM

bubba_3711

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Ill try that again too, I just cleaned it about 400 miles ago when I did my injectors.

Oct 28, 2012 | 06:52 AM

DIYMechanic

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Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 10,121

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From: Orrville, Ohio

When you're cranking it do you get smoke out the tailpipe? Does the WTS light come on?

Here is a link to my "Crank no start" troubleshooting flowchart.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Byb...2x4WU1qRU1VVGc
We don't mind helping you through it either, but it's probably faster for you to read the questions and answers from the flowchart. That way you don't have to wait for us to make a response every time.

Oct 31, 2012 | 05:54 PM

bubba_3711

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Its not the IDM I put mine in my buddys pickup and it started and ran just fine. Im thinking HPOP maybe? Does anyone know what happens when the HPOP goes out or do they just go out one day?

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Oct 31, 2012 | 06:32 PM

strokin'_tatsch

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From: Austin, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by bubba_3711

Its not the IDM I put mine in my buddys pickup and it started and ran just fine. Im thinking HPOP maybe? Does anyone know what happens when the HPOP goes out or do they just go out one day?

Build a mechanical HPOP gauge, get a good scanner, or both. Check ICP while cranking.

Check fuel pressure while cranking,

ohm out wiring from IDM to injectors

If there is a chip in it, pull the chip out and try to start it.

Anything abnormal that you've noticed so far while trying to start it? WTS light turns on? RPMs register on the tach? Oil pressure gauge comes down to normal while cranking?

Here's how to set up the mechanical gauge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch

Here is what's needed to build a mechanical gauge(courtesy of Swamps as I lost my list).

You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge, but having this hose available for future diagnostics will make it worth it.

The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating) with the gauge on one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 90 degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #5 male o-ring boss) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.

Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the HPO galley plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). The O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc... The single 90deg fitting will have a jam nut on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jam nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.

The finished mechanical gauge will look something like this.

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