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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #1  
ef150owner's Avatar
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ignition question

I have a 86 f-150 with 5.8 carbed engine and having problems with ignition. Engine cutting out and dying on me when hot. Bought a new Hi standard Module to keep as a spare. Last time it quit on me, I unplugged the module in question and plugged in the new one(also yellow grommet) and it still would not start. after things cooled down it started up and I made it home.
Just wondering if the pick-up stator in the distributor is bad. Does it act up and miss and quit and later work, or does it just go out and you have to replace it. trying to troubleshoot. I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, rotor, cap and cleaned all the connections in all the plug-ins.
On the verge of going off my nut, please someone give me some advise.
Bud
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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This question probably belongs in the '80-'86 forum...

I'm only familiar with the blue grommet DSII ignition.
Is this yellow grommet a California or altitude compensated model?

Does the plug on your distributor have; black, purple and orange wires?
Check the resistance (Ohms) between the purple and orange wires, when it fails- hot.
My reluctor pickup reads right around 600 Ohms, but I think 500-1,000 is okay.

Could be the coil too.

Both can act this way when they start to fail.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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Are you sure it's ignition and not fuel/vapor lock?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 02:40 AM
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Good question.

Does it act like it is running out of fuel, or does it just "cut off"?
Does the tach drop to zero, even when you're still rolling to a stop?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 06:28 PM
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It's not fuel, I have a full glass of fuel and I'm using a electric fuel pump measures 5.5 lbs to the carb.(Edelbrock Performer 750) New fuel filters, cannister and glass see thru at the inlet to carb.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 06:29 PM
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Sorry, I meant to say it,s a blue grommet module.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Okay then.

Do you have a tach?
If so, how does it act when the truck starts to die?

Do you have a multimeter?
Can you take it with you to test the coil and distributor when it gets hot enough to fail?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Well I have never looked at the tach so see what it's doing, but I will remember to do so next time. I have a multimeter, what should I do with it ?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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Like I said in post #2, unplug the distributor and check the Ohms between the orange and purple wires.

There are also readings for the primary and secondary windings of the coil.
Let me see I I can dig up the old page of DuraSpark troubleshooting procedures.
I don't have them bookmarked on this netbook.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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Well, it seems this link - http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...oubleshooting- is dead...
And I don't have the page saved either.

Sorry, I'm not sure where else there is a copy of the factory troubleshooting manual.
About a year ago FoMoCo went crazy trying to take down all their long obsolete 'intellectual property'
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 06:55 AM
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sounds like a bad coil to me.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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So, I looked into it and came up with Primary; .8 - 1.6 Ohms, Secondary; 7,700 -10,500 Ohms.

Not long ago I had to replace my coil.
I used a Standard Automotive Products aftermarket coil, FD476.
When I just checked it, it shows... Primary; 1.78 Ohms. Secondary; 8,980 Ohms.

My truck seems to run just fine.
I hope this information is useful.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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Thanks to all of you for helping me out here, I will check out the coil which I just replaced and will check the stator pick-up out. I have the coil mounted on the side of the AC mount high on the front of the engine to try and keep it cool. It may be bad as it's one of those @$#&%%! Chinese coils that Echlin makes for NAPA. What's a person gonna do when all the quality is gone on replacement parts? Drive a Chinese car I guess.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 06:10 PM
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Is it an oil filled, or an epoxy filled coil?
If you mount an oil filled coil horizontally and the windings are exposed it will overheat and fail quickly.
How hot is the coil when the ignition cuts out?
Did you replace it trying to solve this problem?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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Wow, I don't remember if it's oil filled or epoxy, but it's mounted upright(vertical) on the AC bracket. I ordered a Standard LX203 from Amazon just to have in case This could be the problem. I added a 1 inch spacer under the module and I,m gonna put a sheet metal heat diverter all the way from the module to the front of the fender and put a 4" piece of flex tubing from the bottom of the fender to the diverter to insure the module stays cooler. If that works I'll patent it and become rich and I won't have to worry about it any more!!!!!
Bud
 
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