ignition question
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ignition question
I have a 86 f-150 with 5.8 carbed engine and having problems with ignition. Engine cutting out and dying on me when hot. Bought a new Hi standard Module to keep as a spare. Last time it quit on me, I unplugged the module in question and plugged in the new one(also yellow grommet) and it still would not start. after things cooled down it started up and I made it home.
Just wondering if the pick-up stator in the distributor is bad. Does it act up and miss and quit and later work, or does it just go out and you have to replace it. trying to troubleshoot. I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, rotor, cap and cleaned all the connections in all the plug-ins.
On the verge of going off my nut, please someone give me some advise.
Bud
Just wondering if the pick-up stator in the distributor is bad. Does it act up and miss and quit and later work, or does it just go out and you have to replace it. trying to troubleshoot. I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, rotor, cap and cleaned all the connections in all the plug-ins.
On the verge of going off my nut, please someone give me some advise.
Bud
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
This question probably belongs in the '80-'86 forum...
I'm only familiar with the blue grommet DSII ignition.
Is this yellow grommet a California or altitude compensated model?
Does the plug on your distributor have; black, purple and orange wires?
Check the resistance (Ohms) between the purple and orange wires, when it fails- hot.
My reluctor pickup reads right around 600 Ohms, but I think 500-1,000 is okay.
Could be the coil too.
Both can act this way when they start to fail.
I'm only familiar with the blue grommet DSII ignition.
Is this yellow grommet a California or altitude compensated model?
Does the plug on your distributor have; black, purple and orange wires?
Check the resistance (Ohms) between the purple and orange wires, when it fails- hot.
My reluctor pickup reads right around 600 Ohms, but I think 500-1,000 is okay.
Could be the coil too.
Both can act this way when they start to fail.
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It's not fuel, I have a full glass of fuel and I'm using a electric fuel pump measures 5.5 lbs to the carb.(Edelbrock Performer 750) New fuel filters, cannister and glass see thru at the inlet to carb.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Okay then.
Do you have a tach?
If so, how does it act when the truck starts to die?
Do you have a multimeter?
Can you take it with you to test the coil and distributor when it gets hot enough to fail?
Do you have a tach?
If so, how does it act when the truck starts to die?
Do you have a multimeter?
Can you take it with you to test the coil and distributor when it gets hot enough to fail?
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Well I have never looked at the tach so see what it's doing, but I will remember to do so next time. I have a multimeter, what should I do with it ?
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Like I said in post #2, unplug the distributor and check the Ohms between the orange and purple wires.
There are also readings for the primary and secondary windings of the coil.
Let me see I I can dig up the old page of DuraSpark troubleshooting procedures.
I don't have them bookmarked on this netbook.
There are also readings for the primary and secondary windings of the coil.
Let me see I I can dig up the old page of DuraSpark troubleshooting procedures.
I don't have them bookmarked on this netbook.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Well, it seems this link - http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...oubleshooting- is dead... 
And I don't have the page saved either.
Sorry, I'm not sure where else there is a copy of the factory troubleshooting manual.
About a year ago FoMoCo went crazy trying to take down all their long obsolete 'intellectual property'
And I don't have the page saved either.
Sorry, I'm not sure where else there is a copy of the factory troubleshooting manual.
About a year ago FoMoCo went crazy trying to take down all their long obsolete 'intellectual property'
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
So, I looked into it and came up with Primary; .8 - 1.6 Ohms, Secondary; 7,700 -10,500 Ohms.
Not long ago I had to replace my coil.
I used a Standard Automotive Products aftermarket coil, FD476.
When I just checked it, it shows... Primary; 1.78 Ohms. Secondary; 8,980 Ohms.
My truck seems to run just fine.
I hope this information is useful.
Not long ago I had to replace my coil.
I used a Standard Automotive Products aftermarket coil, FD476.
When I just checked it, it shows... Primary; 1.78 Ohms. Secondary; 8,980 Ohms.
My truck seems to run just fine.
I hope this information is useful.
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Thanks to all of you for helping me out here, I will check out the coil which I just replaced and will check the stator pick-up out. I have the coil mounted on the side of the AC mount high on the front of the engine to try and keep it cool. It may be bad as it's one of those @$#&%%! Chinese coils that Echlin makes for NAPA. What's a person gonna do when all the quality is gone on replacement parts? Drive a Chinese car I guess.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Is it an oil filled, or an epoxy filled coil?
If you mount an oil filled coil horizontally and the windings are exposed it will overheat and fail quickly.
How hot is the coil when the ignition cuts out?
Did you replace it trying to solve this problem?
If you mount an oil filled coil horizontally and the windings are exposed it will overheat and fail quickly.
How hot is the coil when the ignition cuts out?
Did you replace it trying to solve this problem?
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Wow, I don't remember if it's oil filled or epoxy, but it's mounted upright(vertical) on the AC bracket. I ordered a Standard LX203 from Amazon just to have in case This could be the problem. I added a 1 inch spacer under the module and I,m gonna put a sheet metal heat diverter all the way from the module to the front of the fender and put a 4" piece of flex tubing from the bottom of the fender to the diverter to insure the module stays cooler. If that works I'll patent it and become rich and I won't have to worry about it any more!!!!!
Bud
Bud
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