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Ignition problems...again...

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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Ignition problems...again...

I wrote in about three weeks ago about a problem I had with my '88 Bronco II, with a typical 2.9 V-6. The thing started missing, then just died. I checked a few things, found it to be the stator module in the distributor. I replaced the distributor, with a rebuilt one. Had a new stator, replaced the ignition module, and the coil. It ran like a top, until about two days ago. Guess what... same problem as before, it just hasnt died completely yet. Whats the deal? Anybody else have distributor hungry 2.9 engines that eat ignition components? Any good after market stuff to get away from the parts store stuff?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Does it have a new cap/rotor, wires, and plugs? Can't remember if you replaced those in the process or not. Hopefully, it's not a moisture problem causing cross-fire in your distributor cap. I don't see how the ignition module, coil or stator/pickup may have gone bad already. Have you tried putting your old coil or module back in? Truly weird. Wondering if it may also be a fuel delivery / fuel injection issue coupled with the ignition. I have seen new TFI modules go bad on the day of purchase. Re-check everything... check out the Read First / Tech stuff and check the module, check everything ignition-related. May need to get a scanner and pull codes to see if something else is going on.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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Hello Kernel! I have New plug wires, plugs are about 4 months old. New cap, rotor button, distributor, ignition module, and coil. The distributor I bought had the new hall-effect stator installed. So... I checked my fuel pressure, 41 lbs with engine off, and 34 lbs with engine running at high RPM constantly.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 03:38 AM
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Okay, so fuel delivery isn't an issue. You may want to put a new fuel filter in, just in case, though. Have you run any diagnostics to pull codes? The only other possibilities that I can think of is if the O2 sensor is acting screwy or if your injectors are dirty. You may want to pull the plugs and take a look at them, even if they are only 4 months old, as well as check out all the wires and cap/rotor. You may also want to test the TFI module, even if it is new, just in case.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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Does it make any sense that it does this stutter and dying thing when I turn right at low RPM? It did the same thing before, on right hand turns, and then boom, it quit for good, and would not restart. I replaced the distributor, and it fired right up, and ran GREAT for three weeks. Now, Im back to the intermittent missing and stalling. But just last night, I met a buddy for supper and the Truck was missing and dying. I parked it for about an hour while we ate. I went out got in it, and started it up. My buddy was following me home, and the damned thing never missed a beat.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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That is weird. Wonder if it's something to do with one of your chassis grounds or the power steering pressure switch. You may want to do a thorough code scan (KOEO, KOER, etc.) and see if anything comes up, as well as check all of your wiring for clean/tight connections as well as anything out of place that might be shorting out, etc., and checking EVERYTHING. Truly a weird situation. Anyone else experience this or have any thoughts?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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Well Kernel, I feel kinda stupid right now. I went out and checked EVERYTHING, and everything looked good. I dont have a way to pull codes, so I was looking for anything out of the ordinary. The plug for the module, as I pushed on it, "clicked". Ended up, the little lock tab for this plug is broken. And under the vibration of driving, had slipped out just a little. I took my little Bronco for a test drive, and I just got back. I drove it over everything I could find, water holes, hills, curves, curbs. It never stuttered once, and Im smiling a big smile of relief. I hope thats all it was. Check those plug locks folks, they can sneek up on you!! LOL Thanks Kernel, I appreciate you very much.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 02:58 PM
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Ah, so the TFI module plug was askew?? I think you can get a pigtail with a new connector on the end of it at the auto parts store, or just go junkyard shopping and find one in better shape, if you'd like. Or, you can always employ some sort of zip-tie / self-vulcanizing tape fix. Whatever works. At least now you know what to keep an eye on. You're welcome, I try to help if I can! Speaking of, I probably need to go over all of my wiring to make sure all the connectors are in order as well. Kinda funny it was something so simple, but IT HAPPENS! Glad to hear you found the culprit.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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Well, I hope thats all it was. But I was thinking about something. What do you think about a 2.8 V-6? A friend of mine has a 2.8 that he removed from his 84 BII that he resurrected with a full new running gear, tranny, and a fresh 5.0 V-8. I thought about getting the 2.8, cleaning it up, boring it out say .030 over, and using a vaccum operated standard distributor and a big 2 bl carb. Maybe a fresh-air induction built into a snorkel. I just thought it would be a cool project, I can get the entire motor for about 100 bucks. What do ya think?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Not sure of how much wiring headache that would or wouldn't be -- I know there would be a lot that would have to be removed if you went non-EFI, although I have seen EFI mods for the 2.8. The only thing that sucks is that the 2.8 and 2.9 are not 100% crossover-compatible as far as interchangeability of some parts. You could also consider a 4.0L swap as well. I'd probably never go with a carburetor again myself, however, the 2.8 has plenty of aftermarket performance parts, and I'm sure it could be built up fairly beefy for a V-6. You could build up the engine and get 'er ready so when your 2.9 dies, all you have to do is swap it in or whatever. Definitely something different, as most people opt for the 4.0 or 5.0 swap and don't build up a 2.8 or 2.9 *shrug*
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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Well, I was just thinking it would be simpler, easier to work on, and easier to diagnose when problems arise. It was just one of my many ideas, I'll look and see what all he has, and what a 4.0 would run me.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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IMHO, those 2.8s are gawdawful. Solid lifters, gear-drive timing, and a direct descendent of the old Capri V6 of the early 70s. Only worse. Gaaaack!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 07:41 AM
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Oh, I had no idea. So maybe a nice Diesel would be better!! LOL That video was just too cool, hearing that turbo sound coming from a Bronco gave me a fuzzy feeling down in my gut!! LOL
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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1pump, uh, duh? The Mustang II, Merc Capri, Pinto, Bobcat, etc 2.6L and smaller V-6s are in the same engine family as the 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0: Cologne V6 Engine

The only 'downfalls' of the 2.8s and older I guess is the noisy timing gears and the solid lifters that require maintenance. You can, however buy hydraulic lifters for the 2.8s (and smaller), among other things. As far as the timing gears, those can't be changed to a chain/sprocket setup, as the engine is designed to have the cam spin counterclockwise, and not sure if the cover and/or crankshaft will accomodate (unless maybe a 2.9 cam would work -- I don't believe the 2.8 and 2.9 cams have the same cam profile and lobe separation to accomodate the 2.8 cam to be switched to rotating clockwise vice ccw). I believe, however, there was a 'fix' for the noisy, 'breakable' timing gears, but I'd have to look it up. The odd thing is that the 2.8 and earlier Cologne V6s didn't have as much problem with the oiling... of course, you can buy a hi-volume/hi-pressure oil pump for them, unlike the 2.9 and 4.0 (but that doesn't mean you can't put a stiffer spring in...).

It's the 2.9 that was the first engine in that family to change from all-gear to chain/sprocket-gear timing set, and had the crappy head design, and had the crappy oiling system problems, among other things. I just find it funny everyone bashes on the 2.hate (2.8) and the 2.9, when, with a little time and know-how, you can actually have a pretty reliable strong-running engine out of either of 'em, as long as you know what the issues are and address them properly. *shrug*
 
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 10:59 PM
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Sure, they're of the same lineage, but like you pointed out, there's a world of difference between them. And BTW, hydraulic lifters won't work in a 2.8. The FE lifters (HT2083) will physically fit the bore, but they won't get enough oil due to the block not being drilled for it. And you'd have to get a cam with a hydraulic grind, and since that engine never had one, that could be tough to find.

I started my post my saying "IMHO", meaning just my opinion. And it wasn't directed at anybody, just pointing out some deficiencies in that engine. If you wanna build a hot V6, then the 2.8 is obviously the way to go, since you can't do a helluva lot with the 2.9.
I've owned two 2.9s, and I still have one that I've had for 19 years. The cam finally lost a lobe, but it took 220,000 hard miles to do it. Yeah, they crack head castings, but neither one of mine did, even after two winters in Alaska. The oiling system is OK except for the pickup screen. If you don't change your oil religiously, the mesh plugs up.
Like you, Kernel-Panic, I find it amusing that so many people dog the 2.9. It's been the most reliable engine I've ever owned, or I wouldn't have hung onto it since 1988. Not counting the cam going flat, I've been from SanDiego to Fairbanks over the years with two failures- one was the stator, and the other was the TFI module (sound familiar?). You can't blame the engine for that; Ford used that same ignition on everything for over 10 years.
 
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