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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

need to rewire ignition

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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 05:45 AM
  #16  
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It's the voltage regulator.

I see a bunch of butt crimps and even a red wiring nut.

I don't know much about the wiring harness of a diesel, but I suspect the glow plugs are burnt out or disabled.
Think I'd first investigate the controller and relay.

Starting fluid is a bad idea even for emergency use, I can't using it every day.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #17  
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The voltage regulator was bad and the wiring to it and the alternator were wrong.

Now the engine cranks right over nice for atleast 20-30 seconds a few times.

I am able to start it up good now on a warm engine, but in the morning(about 40degrees) I am unable to start it with out using starting fluid.

I have made it home now and assume I have done some damage possibly with the starting fluid.

I don't know if this could also be a fuel delivery problem?


I am thinking I am going to try and test voltage to all the glow plugs and make sure they are getting power.

Is it possible to pull them and bench test them?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:30 AM
  #18  
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Take the wires off the glowplugs. Take a meter and put it on rx1 scale, touch the two meter leads together to make sure you get a near zero reading. Then find a clean place on the engine block, put one meter lead there, and then touch the tip of each glowplug. You should get a very very low ohm reading if the glowplug is good. 1 or 2 ohms at the most.

If you find bad ones, make sure you only buy motorcraft or international glowplugs. If you buy the cheap autolites, they can swell up and get stuck in the engine. Then they end up breaking off and falling down on top of the piston, and then you end up removing the head. Cross your fingers and hope for the best if some of your glowplugs are cheap ones already. Hopefully you can get them out.

P.S. If when you are cranking it cold in the morning, and you are getting a bunch of stinky white smoke out of the tailpipe, but it won't start, then you have fuel. The stinky white smoke is unburned fuel. If this is the case, you need heat.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #19  
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From: Rockport MA
Originally Posted by Franklin2

P.S. If when you are cranking it cold in the morning, and you are getting a bunch of stinky white smoke out of the tailpipe, but it won't start, then you have fuel. The stinky white smoke is unburned fuel. If this is the case, you need heat.
Sweet, so in other words not a fuel delivery problem. I belive I do have whire smoke in the back. The reason I bring it up is that the other day I ran the hose back to my rear tank and filled her up and went to switch her to the rear tank and then lost her all together and couldn't get her back running until I had someone tap on the fuel selector valve when I tried to turn her over.

Also should I probably start further up the line, as in should I test at the relay, would that make more sense? I have tried this and I think I get about 10 seconds from the small maroon wire on the relay, but I can't remember now. Also how many times can I test this because wont the glow plug relay only work so many times before it quits because it will prevent me from overheating the engine?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:20 PM
  #20  
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Read the glow plug sticky at the top of the page, then if you have any questions, ask.

Edit: I thought we were in the IDI section, here's the glow plug sticky: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...old-style.html
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:14 PM
  #21  
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Jeez well it doesn't get good until the very last post does it eh.

That's along the lines of what I was thinking, but after reading the thread, I want to replace my glow plugs possibly if they are bad and if not possibly down the line. BUT are the motorcrafts not "autosensing" so does that mean they will not shut off automatically and I need to manually wire them? or does this mean something else, because I would like to leave the factory setup if the relay/controller/wiring works

Thanks
Devin
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #22  
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Hey I got my multimeter out today and started with the glow plug test, and put one side of my multimeter to the positive on the battery and one side to the glow plug side plug, and I am using continuity so I see no change, in other words it stays at 1. Is this good or bad? Or am I not supposed to be using continuity?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #23  
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You want to check for continuity between the glow plug and ground, not B+.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #24  
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From: Rockport MA
Sorry, I tried that after and still no dice, it did not move at all, I pulled them all anyway. I am assuming that meant they were bad so I am getting ZD1A's this weekend. They were Autolites anyway.

Also asked this in another thread but figure I will bring it up here since it seems to have moved that way

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...low-plugs.html

Now that the glow plugs are out can I run the truck or is that going to cause a mess, mess with pressure, or any other bad things happen.

Also can I start it with ether now?

and if I got them out in full does that mean I didn't cause any damage with my previous use of ether?

Thanks
Devin
 
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