I just finished rebuilding my carb and putting it back in the truck and a new problem has shown up. When i started the truck it seemed as if the starter kept running, (the truck is loud so im not sure) after about 30-60 seconds the positive battery post caught on fire and melted off the battery. When i tried to pull the key oput of the ignition it wont come out and the entire ignition is stiff and hard to turn. I have replaced the solenoid (thing on the firewall by battery) a few times and i am begenning to think it is the ignition switch. Shouldnt the ignition switch spring back a little from the forward position? Would that happen to the battery if the ignition is stuck all the way forward? How can i get the key out of the ignition? I also noticed a small leak by the throttle shaft on the choke side, could this be the float too high?

 

With the ignition key off and the starter still turning, pull the red/blue wire off of #5 in the below diagram.

If the starter is still turning, the solenoid is stuck; if it stops, the problem exists between the solenoid and ignition switch.

Chinese-made starter solenoids don't have a real good reputation.

From Franklin2's pictures:

 

If i turn the ignition off the starter will stop turning. If i manually turn it back to the run position from the start position the starter will also stop but the truck will continue to run. I assume it is something in the steering column. I am tryiong to take it apart but having issues because i have no puller.

 

You don't need a puller, you need to drop the column.

Remove the headlight & wiper *****, the cluster bezel, the small piece of trim beneath the column, and the plastic shroud covering the column

Then, remove the 4 bolts underneath holding the column to the dash, let the column drop down. The ignition switch is on top, just behind the dash.

 

I have a 1986 F150, which needed the ignition switch replaced [it only lasted 24+ years!!!]. Anyway, my friend who is a Ford Technician replaced it for me in less than 7 minutes! After disconnecting the ground cable at the battery, he laid on his back, reached up to the steering column with what I believe was a 10mm wrench, removed the original and installed a new Motorcraft ignition switch and smiled at me.

He is now a diesel mechanic, but began his career in the early '80's and serviced F150s. There was a recall at one time which provided many opportunities to do this job, so he learned a "better way". That is how mechanics make money; being able to do a quality job quicker than what the "flat rate" book predicts.

 

It may not be the ignition switch then. When i turn the key, it stays all the way forward in the start position unless i manually turn it back to run. It seems gummed up or maybe some sort of spring is missing. I cant figure out how to remove the shrouds around the ignition.

 

It's most likely the ignition switch.

I think you're confused.... you're not interested in the key tumbler thing at all. The shroud I'm talking about is a plastic covering between the dash and the collar behind the steering wheel (exactly which one depends on tilt or non-tilt, auto or manual trans).

The plastic shroud is held together with a single Phillips-head screw accessed from underneath.

 

Be sure to post up your results I took my column down and swapped out the switch but have yet to be able to get up there to put it all back together and test it.

On my new switch there was a small metal clip type thing and my son pulled it out, do I need this?

 

How can i test the ignition switch once i access it?

 

I think the nut on the switch must have shifted or something. It took me a while but i finally re-positioned the switch which allowed me to remove the key and i think it returns to run after it starts. I have to get a new battery before i know for sure because the positive post actually melted off of my battery. Thanks for all the help ctubutis.

 

After fixing the ignition switch i realize i still have a big problem. I put a different battery on the truck and tried to start oit and it melted a little into the battery post? I am afraid to try to start it now. What can i do to test it to make sure its safe?

 

The red/blue wire that connects to #5 in the diagram above, the other end is at the ignition switch.

Turning the key merely energizes that wire, thereby supplying power to the terminal on the solenoid.

When that terminal receives power, the solenoid connects together the two fat cables, thereby supplying power to the starter motor.

To remove the column-mounted switch from the picture entirely, pull that red/blue wire off of the solenoid.

Then, to activate the solenoid, use a small jumper wire to jump between the battery + and that small #5 terminal, that is the same as turning the key but you can do it from under the hood and watch and see what happens.

If things are melting, that tells me tooooooo much current is flowing through the wires - either the starter motor is drawing too much current for some reason, or a short circuit is occurring, shorting the battery directly to ground.

The Owner's Manual says to operate the starter for no more than 45 seconds before letting it cool down.

I have a friend who destroyed his starter motor while trying to jump-start his car when the gas line was frozen, he left it cranking for something like 15 minutes straight.

A full-service gas station, Sears Auto Center, probably many auto repair places can perform what's known as a load test on the battery to see how much current is being drawn while the starter motor is operating. An auto parts store might even be able to do it for ya, I'll bet all those places will do it for free.

The good news is that everything that all the parts are are easily accessible under the hood.

Do you have a volt meter? If so, look at your battery voltage with the engine off, it should be around 12-12.5 or so volts. If you can get the engine running, voltage should then be around 14 and no more.

If you can get it running, take it to one of those places and ask them to do a load test on it.

 

I will give that a try. Thanks again for the help.

 

I get 12.1 volts on the battery but when i turn the ignition it just makes a single click. I tried to do it twice and then went to pull the negative wire off the battery and both cales were hot? What do you recommend i start checking?

 

check the cable going from the solenoid to the starter and see if it is grounding out !